Passat (B6) :: Steering / Traction Light Comfort Features Lost After Battery Disconnected
Jul 26, 2009
Disconnected my battery for about 15 minutes to wire up HIDs. Couldn't put them in due to the nut not coming off the battery bolt. tightened battery and started car. dash has amber steering light on and traction light. when i put it in reverse (AT) it banged into gear, then put in "manual mode" trans jumped and banged into 3rd gear. also noticed 1 touch windows not working. What might have gone wrong from a simple battery disconnect. no additional wires were hooked up to the car or did i forget to reset something.
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Once this happens, simply turning the ignition off and then on again seems solves the problem. We've taken the car to two mechanics, one who said the belt was slipping and one who said the belt was fine!
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Looks like I erased the Comfort setting in the MFI, I was changing stations at a light and noticed those menus, played with them for a bit and I hit it at factory reset. Since then I have not been able to get the Comfort menu to come up. Is there anything I can do to get it back or will I need to go to the dealer to get it reset?
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A few weeks ago, my door unlocking settings reset to "driver's side" (I have it set to "all") 3-4 times in one week. I remember this being an issue with the 2004 models, but I was surprised to see it happen in my 2006... and then completely disappear.
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I just got a new battery installed from Walmart for my 2007 Avalon. After replacing the battery I am experiencing a wide variety of electrical problems. The car starts fine that's not the problem. Here's a lost of all of the problems:
Navigation display now goes I wired directions...it used to follow the direction the car was going
Passenger window does not work at all
Driver side window works but the auto function does not work
Sun roof auto feature does not work so you have to hold the button the whole time as opposed to just pressing it once
What could have caused this?? I haven't tried cleaning the terminals or anything yet.
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Initially my compass and all convenience features disappeared a few weeks back. They dealer can't seem to figure out how to bring it back. The did get my compass back though. It may sound insignificant but three features are now gone that I like. I shut off the horn beep when locking the car, one push on the keyless entry unlocked all four doors and when I shut the car off all four doors unlocked. These are now gone.
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Having problems setting driver comfort controls after replacing the battery. Does the car have to go thru a relearn process before all will come back to normal?
Used to be able to keep A/C set on auto. Now the A/C and fan motor won't come on unless you turn A/C to Off and then hit the AUTO button.
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Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
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I want to disconnect the battery, clean the terminals and ground etc and reconnect. I don't have the factory radio so no code needed. Is there any other settings that will be lost? Do I need to recode the remotes?
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For the past week I have had the steering wheel and traction control warning lights come on after I start the car after sitting for a long period of time. Once I drive the car a few feet the warning lights disappear. The model is a 2007 2.0T with 72,000 miles. What are next steps or should I head to the dealership? I'm out of factory warranty but have a third party warranty that expires at 75,000 miles.
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I'm getting some vibration and steering wheel shake with my '04 GX... I have a 2004 GX with the differential dynamic damper installed. About 55-60mph it starts, and shakes the steering wheel back and forth. Sometimes it's completely smooth, but on other road surfaces it shakes. On full "comfort mode," the shake is much worse, but on Sport mode it dampens the shake to about 10% intensity, but it's sometimes still there. This is not bump steer, by the way.
So far, I've done:
-Brakes
-Alignment
-Front hubs
-2x wheel balancing with 2 different sets of wheels/tires
-lubed the drive shaft and prop shaft to fix the clunk (Clunk TSB has not been done)
-changed the power steering fluid
-checked all control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings. All are solid.
I recently jacked up the front end and moved the wheels back and forth by hand. It seems like there is some looseness coming front the inner tie rods. However, I pushed and pulled and can't get a clunk or anything. I think it's coming from inside the steering gearbox. My VIN says it's before ST002-05, so that TSB aka "Steering Flutter" would apply, if it is that.
After 104k, are the front shocks due for a change? It does seem to nose-dive a bit on braking, but the shocks aren't leaking or anything. Would worn shocks cause steering wheel flutter on these trucks?
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Associated symptoms include no power steering, complete lack/absence of stability and traction control. This has happened to me a few times in the past, but has never stayed in after multiple start ups (and other remedial action). 2-3 times it's happened on startup, and cleared after a restart, one time while driving, and cleared on its own. This is going on the list of issues with less than 7k on the car.... 2012 3.6 sel
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I've seen lots of posts about the traction battery regarding cooling fan speeds, sensors, overheating, under charged, but is there a dash light that warns the batteries are overheating before they are damaged ? I'm worried about someone riding in the back of the car, covering the vent and causing battery damage. It is hard to see if they are covering the vents when you are sitting in the front driver seat.
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So I just drove home and the battery light comes on. A few miles later the ABS and Traction Control Light come on as well. Then I notice the windshield wipers slowing down, etc. You get the idea.
I turned everything non-essential off and made it all the way home. Of course, after I turned her off, the car won't start now.I took a couple of pictures of my battery. It always looked a bit corroded and messy, but this is pretty bad.
What I need to get the car running again? Obviously the red wire on the left is in bad shape. Is that something one can buy at the auto store? Or should I just bring her to my local shop.
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We just replaced the Traction battery in my 2004 prius. The car has 242,000 miles on it and was running fine when we pulled it in. The battery was purchased used from a 2005 prius with just over 80k on the clock. The replacement battery was removed from the wrecked prius less than a month ago.
The problem is that after installing the new traction battery, every thing looks great except the Ready light will not come on. There are no warning lights except the little red light that indicates there is no key in the car. The key will remotely lock and unlock the car so I'm sure the battery is not dead and the no-key light stays on even if I insert the key into the key slot on the dash. The shifter will only move from Park to Neutral.
What am I doing wrong? Is there some special procedure to go through to make the car recognize the key after replacing the battery?
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Every time I stop fairly quickly my battery light comes on and I loose all power. Lights, power steering, everything goes... Is this a connection problem? Its not the battery since I have to turn my car off and start it again for it to be alright.. What's going on?
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The steering on my Mk5 3.2 is feeling a bit loose and disconnected. I'm also coming up on the end of my 40K mile warranty. Is this common to this platform, or are there some end links, etc. that I should have the dealer check out?
Even if it is not a wear issue, what can I do to tighten up steering response and tracking? Ok so further searching with different terms gave me control arm bushings as a possible culprit.
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I disconnect my Avalon 2007 battery and after connect it the car won't start.
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After about 3 weeks, I finally get my 04 .:R32 back from the shop after getting a new fuel pump (long story there) and the mechanic mentioned the fans began to run and stay running when the key is turned to the on position and then turned off, key removed etc. I picked the car up tonight and repeated his claim turning the key to the on position and the fans kicked on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected. I am hoping there is an easy fix. What this could be? FCM maybe?
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I have a 2013 Elantra and had to disconnect the battery. Once the battery was reconnected, there is no sound coming from my speakers. The radio turns off/on, searches for stations, etc. Everything I have read tells me to push the reset button, which is a tiny hole on the radio face plate. I have had 4 different people look for it, and it is NOT there. Looked in the owners manual about battery change and it says to reset the radio, but the manual has no instructions on how to do this. We have pulled fuses, disconnected and reconnected the battery again but it still doesn't work. Purchased the car used and never received any information on the radio code as other forums say I need to have. 2 hours in the car in silence is not fun.
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2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
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