Passat (B6) :: Speed Warning Every Time When Exceed 20MPH
Aug 5, 2007
Every time I exceed 20 MPH, my MFD chimes at me and causes a warning to flash on the screen. The only way to get rid of the warning is to either slow down to under 20 or hit the "OK" button on my steering wheel. This becomes problematic when I am trying to follow the directions given by my nav system.
I turned off the "speed warning" feature that is under the "winter tires" section of the config menu. This didn't affect it. How do I turn this thing off??
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Started hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
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I Just did a little work on my 2013, lowering springs, BBS rims and Kuhmo tires....
I now get a Check Tires warning every-time at start up.... Clearly it has to do w/ the lack of tire pressure monitors...
Can this error be whipped/cleared? OR do I need to get TPM's? OR do I live w/ it?
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I just brought home my new 07 2.0T Wagon and need info with the speed warning function. The dealer set it to 0.0 mph when showing me the car and now whenever I start the car and back up, drive away it says speed warning exceeded. I then press the OK button and it goes back to normal MFD mode. How do I disable or turn off the speed warning, I thought I did what the manual said but it will not go away (when I first start the car).
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Vehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
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Car is a 2004 Kia Rio Cinco with 82,000 miles, 5 speed with self-adjusting clutch. My car will not exceed 2500 RPM in any gear. In first (or any other gear) gear I can drive up to 2500 RPM and then must shift into 2nd (or the next gear) if I want to go faster, if RPM goes above 2500 the car stops accelerating and the RPM drops to 2000 at which time the car starts to accelerate again. The engine is running at a very high rate when I come to a stop as if the idle is set too high. The car does not lose electrical power when this happens. I have driven the car more than an hour in 5th gear going 45 to 50 mph keeping the RPMs between 2000 & 2500. I can get around town with easily as long as I am staying in the 2000 to 2500 RPM range. This problem started late Saturday night when I was in Phoenix and had to get to the airport to pick up my daughter and then get back home to Prescott, AZ. Since the dealers were all closed on Sunday I just went home at 45-50 miles an hour all the way back to Prescott. It was a long drive but we enjoyed ourselves. The car ran fine except for the RPM problem.
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2002 grand cherokee... Just took her in on Friday to have valve cover and oil pan leaks fixed, and within an hour of picking it up today the automatic transmission won't get out of 1st gear… rpms rising and can't exceed about 29 mph. Straight 6 engine. Any chance the mechanic messed something up, like a throttle cable or something, or is this just terrible karma?
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While engine braking on long down hill runs I notice about 3-4 lbs of boost when I exceed 3K RPM. Why would I have any boost? Should I be concerned? It's been that way for as long as I can remember.
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC engine. It bogs down and won't go over 20 MPH. I'm showing codes P1405 and P1151. Would either of these codes cause that issue? I'm not even sure how to start diagnosing this.
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What this code is about it?? 5784 sporadic 001-upper limit exceed
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I have a 2007 Subaru Forester, bought from a dealer with 7,000 miles on it in 2007. I religiously had the oil changed every 5,000 miles and had other recommended work done. At 90,000 miles I did not have the work done immediately, but waited until 92,000 miles. My car then ran out of oil, with no smoking, no oil in the driveway, no warning light, so I believe the dealers didn't fill the oil at 85,000 miles. But that's not why I'm writing. I had a remanufactured short block assembly installed and the other work done at the dealer to the tune of over $6000.
Now that I have my car back it hesitates at least once a day, sometimes several times, sometimes several times in a row. It hesitates at about 20 miles per hour, when the gears are changing. Of course, it didn't hesitate when they checked it and their computer says "nothing's wrong". In addition, there was a tapping sound in the engine. Again "nothing's wrong". When I had my car smogged, the smog tech said "OMG, you have a problem with your valves." I took it to the dealer and they then admitted I had a problem with my valves (or lifters) and they fixed it. The hesitation continues. What could be causing the hesitation? They're not smart enough nor do they care enough to figure out what it is.
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Ok, this is something I have been battling with for some time now. Recently the problem has gotten rather bad.
I have an 01 Honda Civic EX automatic that I have been babying to get it to run somewhat smoothly, but with the seasonal temperature change it has gotten worse. The car does not want to shift from 1st to 2nd and will only do it once I reach 20mph, this was normal for about 6 months. Now the car will not shift when trying to move from a stop. My thinking is that it has not downshifted into first. I had the transmission rebuilt 2 years ago. There is a slow transmission leak but I have kept it topped off. Sometimes it will not shift from 3rd to 4th... this is new.
My thought is that the shift solenoids are worn out and need replacing.I do have random misfires, but I think that is a separate issue.
Also, it has almost no problem when driving from a cold start. It gets worse the more you drive or after the engine has reached running temp.
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Had to get a state inspection this month, and originally failed due to front right outer tie rod and both control arm bushings -- i bit the bullet and had the shop do this work for me, since I am going on vacation this week and i plan on using my car.
Anyhow, got the car back, and now i can hear a light clicking or tapping noise, but i can only really hear it when i put the window down, or if im driving by one of those concrete median dividers. Its as if someone is taking the metal tip of a screwdriver amd tapping it against a hollow metal bowl -- it makes a clicking noise, not a clunking or whirring noise...
I can only hear it when i hit 20mph; any less and i cant hear the clicks. At 20mph, its a slow, faint click that seems to be closely related to the wheel spinning. At 40mph, i can hear it is much faster, but just barely louder. I hear it best at abouf 25-30 mph, before road noises begin to over power the clicks.
Turning does not seem to affect the clicking, nor does braking. Its just constant -- if the wheel is spinning over 20mph, its clicking. Whether i coast or accelerate does not matter. I checked for rocks/nails in my treads, and with the exception of quite a few tiny rocks (which i took out), there doesn't seem to be anything remarkable. I checked my CV boots, and i cant find any signs of tearing or leaking grease...
If it is my CV Joint, wouldnt the mechanic that did my inspection, who caught my tie rod and control a bushings, and who did my alignment -- wouldnt he have also noticed something odd about my CV Joint, if something is indeed wrong?
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So my car (2001 Civic) was having some issues that I needed to get worked out, so I was driving my mother's car for a few days. Within the first few minutes I knew there was something wrong, but I had so much going on that I haven't had a chance to get back to it for a while.
So she has a 2003 Toyota Camry with just 39k miles. Her work is about 2 miles away from home, so it basically gets driven there and to get groceries, and local clothes shopping. The car basically never sees the highway.
Hard to describe the sound, but it's like a loud rattling/vibration with every revolution of the front wheels. It sounds like it's coming from the front passenger side. Either the tire or the engine area. Here's a video of it on youtube. You can hear it pretty clearly under the road noise. It sounds kinda of like going over train tracks or something, and I'm only going about 45mph in the video. [URL] ....
So I don't know much about the car, but I am very familiar with my civic, so I checked out a few things. The tires appear to be in pretty good shape. About half the tread left with no unusual wear. I doubt it's the tires, cuz it really doesn't sound like tire noise. I checked the engine mounts and they appear to be in good order without cracks. Wouldn't expect an engine mount to go at 39k miles either, regardless of age. The car is garage kept.
Neither wheel has any side to side or up and down play like a bad ball joint, tie rod end, or wheel bearing would have. The steering wheel doesn't vibrate or anything. The sway bar endlinks appeared to be in good shape. I just changed the brake pads and rotors because of an unrelated issue. It didn't fix the problem.
A couple of things I will note: The belts are kind of dirty. It was really weird because half the belt is brown, the other half is black. It's basically split down the middle of one side. It's just dirt though, as I was able to rub some of it off with my fingers. The car was in a minor accident a couple of years back. It required me to replace the bumper and the passenger side headlight.
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My wife has a 04 chevy trailblazer ltd with 4wd. I have a couple of questions "service 4wd" comes on seems stuck in 4wd has moaning noise over 20mph moaning goes away when turning has grinding noise coming from front and sometimes a clanking noise that doesn't sound like something heavy but not very light either...
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Flickering low beam lights for several weeks and I decided to change both bulbs, pretty straight forward job, some 30 minutes for each side but when I went for a drive I noticed that ESP warning light on all the time, looked in the manual, tried to turn it on / off, no change. I can't believe there's a connection between changing the bulbs and ESP?
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I've had my Golf Wagon for over 2 years. A week ago it started giving me the service warning every time I start. service in 4000 miles or 350 days. I had a dealer done oil change, took a 5000 mi road trip, came home, and now this happens every time I start my car.
I feel I could turn it off via vag com, but I also feel like I've crossed in a parallel universe. as every post just tells people how to "reset"... can't find anything about on/off or its sudden appearance out of nowhere! and I can't for mysterious reasons, post on other forums.
did the dealer do something via vag com? did my co-driver hit some weird combo of buttons?
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2000 ranger 2.5 245000 miles. code po171 and idle problem has come back. Replace ICV, EGR, MAF, PVC, check fuel pres, air cleaner, plugs, wires, O2, check for vac leaks, Intermittently coasting at 20mph out of gear (stick shift) engine revs to 2500 rpm and holds until i brake to a stop then it idles down. So I disconnect the ICV and it runs perfect. (its a new ICV) something is telling the ICV to open up. a month ago it did the same thing when i replaced the EGR the idle problem cleared up so I thought that was it.
There is a relationship between the truck speed and the engine speed but how does the engine speed know the truck is moving when its out of gear. It work perfect for a month all of a sudden it starts this problem again. I am thinking of taking it to the ford dealer for a diagnostic test but I don't know how specific they can get on whats wrong I don't what to them to just say "oh you have a vac leak" . . . I know a 171 could be vac leak but the problem is so dramatic and off again on again it seems more like a part problem then a vac hose is either leaking or not.
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The Tire Pressure Warning went off every time I started the car. Checked pressure, no problems. I told the dealer, and he said that if you park next to another Treg, it can cause problems. I guess that the tire sensors are wireless and the interfere w/ each other.
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My wife was driving down our street today, a two way street, narrow at best of times. On one side a monster snow pile ( 6-7ft high), the other side a very big truck coming at her, minimal passing room, like almost touching her mirrors.
The warning lights on both sides went from green to yellow and red ...beeping all the time. The Phaeton stalled. Not once or twice, but four times !!
Question : did the engine stall because of the red beeping lights on both sides sensed imminent danger ? ...... and she kept on going. She thinks so.
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I've got a 2006 Prius with GPS navigation. Is there a way to get rid of the caution warning on gets every time one starts the car? I have to press "Agree" each time and am looking for a setting to get rid of the warning. The warning reads:
CAUTION
Drive safely and obey traffic rules.
Watching this screen while vehicle is in motion can lead to a serious accident.
Make all selections only while stopped.
Some map data may be incorrect.
Read safety instructions in Navigation Manual.
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