My 2007 3.6L 4Motion wagon was in for the 40k service. Everything was fine with the service, but they noticed that there was a small leak in the rear differential.
It's covered under warranty, but the troubling thing is that they can't figure out how to stop the leak. They are calling VW tech.
I have a 96 outback which all of a sudden has no awd. The rear differential looks as though it has leaked some. I don't know if it has a bad axle, or if this loss of fluid is the culprit..... Where to start?
View 4 RepliesThe rear differential center section on my wife's 02 Explorer has a slow drip that appears to be coming from the rear cover plate. I have worked on the solid 8.8 and 10.25 axles but never on a independent center section. Does the whole center section have to be lowered to change the seal on the cover? If so, do the axles have to be pulled to do so?
View 3 RepliesNew issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
Our 2010 AWD RX350 developed a rear differential oil leak (passenger side) at the drive shaft lip seal. Has 80,000.
View 5 RepliesI am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
View 6 RepliesDirectly under the body in the center, about 2 feet in from the rear, I noticed a small drip leak. There was a weak rubber plug that I yanked out and all of a sudden, about half a gallon of a water like substance poured out. It appears that the spare tire compartment was full of water. What could of caused this???
View 5 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair. I can't afford that at this time. I put in Valvoline Maxlife for older cars, sealed for couple mnthsnow its leaking again. Its not PCV. Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner"...
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair $800 I cant afford that at this time. My question is: can this product be tried as as temporary fix or if it works? Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner.
View 7 RepliesI recently went to my mechanic after living with a very small leak right between the catalytic converters and the transmission for about 4 months. (it dropped a dime-sized mark about once every 5 days.) he said it was the rear output seal on the transmission but wouldnt touch it since there was no easy way to get to it and didn't want to drop the whole exhaust system. so off to vw dealership (wow, i guess a lot of people complained because they replaced everyone there and they're more friendly and efficient. my car usually sat there for 3 weeks before they even looked at it. (appointment mean nothing to those people.) but after dropping off my car i got a call within an hour telling me it was a cracked ventilation hose. they ordered the part and repaired it within a week (another first.) i also had them change the trans fluid and filter and the car ran smoother and a lot better and i checked for 2 weeks for leaks and none were there but within the past week, it's back and leaking the same way. the puddle is about the size of a penny so back to vw on monday.
View 1 Replies2002 Camry 4 cyl was leaking a small bit of oil on the rear passenger side of the valve cover - about directly behind where the timing chain is. I replaced the valve cover today, but noticed that there is still a small amount of oil leaking at the same spot. Is this a common problem with the '02 Camry? Or perhaps I have a valve cover problem?
View 2 RepliesToday I noticed a small coolant leak under passenger side bumper. What it could be leaking from?
View 1 RepliesToday I did a oil change (70k). While under the car I notice a small leak from the back side of the engine. When I got home, I had the chance to remove the engine cover to investigate and clean the engine up a bit.
I found that the bolts in the rear of the valve cover had a little puddle of oil around them. I took a T-30 torque bit and was able to get a least a full turn on the rear bolts and about half turn on the middle ones. Fronts were about a quarter turn. Check your valve cover bolts.
I've gotten the P0442 "small leak - intermittent" code and "service now" warnings on my 2007 2.0T Passat. I have also occasionally gotten the "check gas cap" warning and icon on the dash, but it always goes away quickly. The car runs fine. The VCDS scan shows as follows:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 907 115 S HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: --H14--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0404010A19070160
Shop #: WSC 24125 444 85663
VCID: 3041CBF8A31AF19890B
1 Fault Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
[Code] ....
If I clear this code, it comes back within a day or two of driving, but not immediately. I have already replaced the gas cap and N80 valve. The other component I'm aware of possibly failing is the check valve. It's just downstream of the N80 valve, circled in red here:.
I put a vacuum on this part, and it had a very slow leak, losing about 3psi (starting from 20psi) every minute. That seems too small a leak for this to be a problem? Is this thing supposed to be absolutely air tight? Since this part is more expensive ($80) and bit more hassle to replace than the N80 valve, I'd like to know more about this before I just blindly replace it.
If this check valve isn't the problem, then what to check? Although the car runs fine, I need an inspection and would prefer to not have to clear the codes and hope for the best just before taking it in.
When I got my 60K service last weekend, the dealer called me and explained that I had a "very small internal leak fro an emissions canister that was leaking into the intake/manifold". He said something like that. He also said that it doesn't do anything to the performance of the car, but that the leak will increase over time and will throw a MIL.
View 6 RepliesThrew this code p0442 evap emission control small leak. I see its a popular code to have....
View 14 RepliesHad a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 F150 Supercab has developed a water leak which I would like to ask your opinions on. Parked on a 20 degree incline during a pouring rain yesterday, I came out to find a small puddle in the driver's side rear floor corner and about an ounce of water pooled in a little lip at the bottom of the rear window in the right corner of the window! Haven't started tearing anything apart yet (and might not be able to myself), but it seems that it is possibly the rear window seal as the window and the outside body area appear to be in good shape otherwise (no visible rust, no seal obviously dislocated, etc).
Also, don't know if it's related, the other day I jacked up the truck with a floor jack under the front crossmember but a bit off center which caused the truck to twist a bit before both wheels came off the ground. While doing this, I heard and felt a loud bang like something broke in the frame! Couldn't see anything out of place and something similar has happened before where a lug of the jack cup had shifted slightly while jacking the vehicle and it caused a loud bang to be heard, but this time it didn't quite feel like it was at the jack but further back.
Could something have "broken" in the truck that I can't quite see and thus this leak has occurred which wasn't there previously or could it just be coincidence that the bang and leak occurred so close in time to each other. I know it's hard to diagnose something like this without seeing the vehicle or really know what happened but I just had to put it out there as part of the events that occurred within the timeline for this leak.
I purchased my first truck 2 weeks ago private sale a 2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4v4 4.0L. I noticed it had small leaks coming from transmission and front differential gaskets (the diff is silicone) but the oil levels remain fine. Within days I heard a loud hum coming from the engine for 10 seconds then immediately after i was slowing down for a speed bump and my truck tried to stall and since that point it was riding very rough at low speed/idle and sometimes giving it gas seemed to just kill it. Next day a check engine light comes on and I get it checked It was Bank 1 running lean and B1155 (Output shaft speed signal) which concerned me from what I found it is located by the transmission oil filter which has the leak.
A few more days later I broke down on the side of the road, the alternator had died and killed the battery, I replaced the alternator and belt, replaced the 6 spark plugs, 3 of which i removed way to easily with my hands and all 6 had an incorrect gap. Initially the car was still rough but now with the new plugs it is drivable but still a little weird on startup and idle and a little bit of the shakes around 60-65mph and seems to be over actively shifting soon as i let off the gas even a little bit. Today I had the check engine light assessed again, now Bank 1 and Bank 2 are lean, still have the B1155 as well as a new C1676 (Battery pack voltage out of range) which light research said it could be ABS module or it could be a false code from being jumped days prior and that code wont clear on its own.
So we are taking a short trip and my dad decides he would like to drive my new passat. That means I get kicked to the back seat as my wife will not give up her heated seat. We are on the highway now and I noticed for the first time some very annoying wind noise coming from the rear headliner between the door and the small window. It almost sounds as if the widow is opened a crack but I checked.
View 5 RepliesLast night just before parking my Phaeton in my garage I've took a look and saw a small amount of oil on the floor. It was light and judging by the oil location and color it could be from the front differential. I had this on my A8 , it wasn't difficult to fix, my mechanic changed the main seal. As far as I know the A8 quattro system is the same on the Phaeton, so, should I assume that it can also easily be fixed.
View 3 Replies