Passat (B6) :: Shudder / Jerkiness While Stopping At The Final Few Seconds
Oct 23, 2010
Have driven Hondas for 25+ years and used to their appliance like Smoothness and reliability. Yesterday bought my first VW ever, the last 2010 Passat ( a sedan) in my dealer's inventory.
I immediately noticed that while coming to a stop for the final few seconds there is a jerkiness and shudder that I feel. Feels like the way a manual transmission car feels when you forgot to depress the clutch and you're stopping. Once I come to a complete stop all is fine again.
Is it "normal" for the passat or vw in general?
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I just picked up my new GTI and drove it 300 miles home. I did notice one potential issue that will need service attention. There is a mild but very noticeable shudder when slowing to a stop (gently slowing to less than 5mph). It is also mildly noticeable when taking off slowly but much less so.
The best description I can come up with is : Shudder that occurs when you slow to a near stop in a manual transmission car without pressing in the clutch? That little shudder that reminds you to put the clutch in before you stall. That is what this feels like. It doesn't shake the whole car but it is very noticeable.
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I recently switched from stock rotors to a pair of SP slotted rotors. The pads are stock. I thoroughly followed the bedding process and had no problems until now. For the past 2 weeks I noticed brake shudder when stopping from highway speeds. My first reaction was that it was a warped rotor. Since it was a fairly new pair.
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2010 F150 5.4, 6 speed... I am fast approaching the end for the factory 60,000 mile drive line warranty. I have had the slow speed 0-2 miles per hour shudder since 3,000 miles. The shudder downshifting from 2nd to 1st when stopping. As well as the highway shudder when gradually accelerating above 55 mph (empty and loaded)
The dealer that I purchased the truck from has driven with me several times and experienced the problems. They reflashed the computer at 5,000 miles. it made the shudder frequency double. i.e., twice as rapid. Reflashed again with no change.
I finally called Ford Motor Company, and they were surprised that I had not filed a complaint earlier. They followed up with the dealer.....who's service dept opted not to work on the vehicle again. I am now working with another dealer, and will be starting from scratch.
Long story short. I see that some have replaced torque converters, transmissions, clutch plates, valve bodies, and on and on....
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I just bought my first truck and it is a 1999 (Made in late 1998) F250 7.3 Super Duty it is 2WD with rear ABS and has 290k miles on it.
It has what seems to be the common brake shudder while stopping. I know the only solution is to replace the rotors and I have been looking all over the forums and internet and just don't know what to go with.
I'll be using the truck to do light farm work, pickup lumber, get a bed load of dirt and maybe pull a normal car trailer every now and then.
I'm wanting to get something that will prove to be trouble free long term and be good enough for what I need with out over paying for something that I will never fully utilize. I have looked at
R1 Concepts
Frozen Rotor
EBC - which doesn't have 2wd front rotors
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My '11 F250 stock w/airbags has a mild shudder when I let off the gas approaching a stop light. If I air the bags up to about 20 lbs it appears to go away, or at least is undetectable. I don't notice this if travelling at a higher rate of speed on a highway but only when slowing down from a lower speed (<40 mph). What this could be?
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My car is usually garage-kept. Last week, I left it in an outdoor parking lot at the airport for 5 days, with temps ranging from 5 to 20 degrees. When I returned and turned it on, it responded with a very loud and visible shudder that lasted about 20 seconds. It gradually diminished, and then was fine. I've been driving it normally for two days, with no more symptoms. But this morning, turning the car on in the garage, it gave me the shudder again, this time for only about 5 seconds.
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Late build 03 f350 auto, I got a p0500 code and noticed sometimes after 2rd-3rd gear engages theres a shudder or fast vibration for few secs unless i let off, it didn't start this till i took batteries out, where is the location of the vss at, I am seeing some say at each wheel, on top rear diff, on top back of trans so not real sure?
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First my check engine light came on and is still on now my alarm keeps going off and not stopping. The alarm even went on while i was driving. Whats causing this to happen???
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So I've got a strange/scary thing going on, not sure if it's temperature related or not. Driving my wagon in automatic mode, the throttle will sometimes *just stop working*. 4 or 5 times this has happened right after taking off from a stop (turning left at a light, leaving a stop sign, etc.): my foot's on the gas, but the car will just slow down, tach dropping toward idle. Let me tell you, I have never slammed my foot down on the gas pedal so hard before in my life.. and nothing happens.
Then suddenly, WHAM, the tach runs up and away I go. I haven't scientifically figured the damn problem out, but it might (?) be only happening within 15 minutes of starting from cold (overnight). Haven't been able to determine if it happens after a couple hours of tooling around town (I haven't been driving much the last couple weeks).
Another quirk is that sometimes leaving a stop sign it will move, but slowly (when compared to my foot position on the pedal), with the revs high in 1st but almost like it's slipping. Feels like maybe not all four wheels are engaged. Then suddenly everything wakes up and I'm off like a bat outta hell. Sometimes runs all the way to redline in 1st before shifting, even when I don't have my foot through the firewall.
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My 2005 Camry XLE 3.0 V6 is exhibiting engine jerkiness over 55MPH. The OBD II reader shows a group of codes:
0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire detected
0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire detected
0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
2195 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank 1 sensor 1
From what I can find in the forum I cant quite tell whether I should be looking at bad gas, overfill of oil, vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor (the expensive one before the cat).
Changing the gas or checking the oil is easy enough. where would one look for the vacuum leak that would cause this type of problem? Is getting the O2 sensor out of the upper bank as much of a beast as it sounds in some of the threads (better left to a "real" mechanic?).
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I am driving to work and I get all these errors ESP, Air Con stops working, steering wheel functions do not work. The final error workbench with a key symbol. It actually reset itself once while driving. What the hell is going on? Not a good start for a one month old Touareg.
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Started my car yesterday and as I was accelerating, it made a very loud noise. It sounds like normal engine acceleration noise, only ten times louder. It was present whenever I accelerated, but not when I was coasting or idling, and not when the car was in neutral. (It's a stick shift.) During acceleration, there was a little hesitation and a little jerkiness, but not horrible. The problem came on suddenly - no problems with the car before yesterday.
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So far I have only experienced this once (today). I was on the freeway which ends and becomes a State Route. When I stopped for a traffic light the idle became rough. I put the car in neutral and gave it a little gas and it seemed fine. It has not done that again at this time. No CEL or anything came on. What do you think?
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Carefully modulating the brake in this car to offset any jerkiness caused by the DSG riding the gears down eventually became second nature to me and I am pretty good at keeping things nice and smooth. As of late however, my brakes are all over the place and it's driving me insane. If the person ahead of me stops short pulling up to a light and I need to follow suit, my brakes will often BITE hard resulting in a not so subtle jolt. Other times I don't get nearly as much stopping power as I think I should given how much force I'm putting on the pedal and I really have to bury it at the last minute. Not sure if these are a factor of the DSG downshifting at just the wrong moment or what, but it's gotten a bit unnerving.
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My 2004 Treg has 24,000 miles on it and though I still LOVE it, it has been in and out of the dealer for inconsistent power issues. Off and on there is a noticeable delayed response from when you engage the gas and when the vehicle responds. Not to mention the transmission feels very jerky and rough as well. I have heard numerous reasons for this, but this week I got a new reason! The VW dealership says that now it could be that my air filter is dirty and needs to be replaced! They said if the new air filter does not fix the problems that I will need a whole new computer system!! Does this make any sense?
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Is there a way to determine the distance to a city on the NAV route that occurs before the final set destination city?
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I have a 2000 dodge caravan that has 290,000 miles on it. I don't want to put a lot of money into it.
Just recently I put in the anew alternator, then had some work done on the exhaust.
Immediately afterward, I had trouble starting it. My mechanic fixed a gas leak, then it would start sometimes, other times it would not start. Then different mechanic replaced a sensor. It started a few times and it is back to not starting again.
It makes an rrrrrr sound like it is getting some sparks, but it won't make the final start. The battery was tested, and jumping it with cables doesn't work. My brother and the tow truck driver thought it might be the fuel pump, which was replaced about a year ago.
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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The noise is not the usual vibrate noise that happens.
The Noise: As I brake harder to the final stop I hear a grind/bump noise. It is hard to describe. It is abrupt and quick. I don't believe it affects the braking just annoying and doesnt sound normal.
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I was driving the car and suddenly started to vibrate and to give signs of stopping. The car doesn't have power now. I stopped the engine then start it. The idle rpm was instable and the engine stopped by himself. After i tryed harder to start, the engine started and the message Engine Fault Workshop and the sparking plug sensor apeared blinking.With that message and sensor notification on screen the car sounds normal and the rpm is idling..but after a restart the messages disappeared and the engine was again going wrong.
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