It showed up when the car wouldnt start. It would start but the rpms would just fall then shuts down. And now I have been having issues with the car not starting. At times it would start on the first try and others i have literally tried over 10 times and it wouldnt start... eventually it always starts but i dont want to get to the point where i get stranded.
View 8 RepliesI just turned on my car to move it out of the drive way and i noticed it starts rising when cold probably like 25-50 rpm then goes down, then back, and so on. i never noticed this before. is it a cold start assist or something like that ? i dont believe it does it when cold ( never noticed )...
View 11 RepliesHave a 2001 CRV that is running really bad. It almost stalls when I put it in gear or even when the RPM's fall to idle. It is now throwing a p0172 code. I have a simple scan tool and verified the MAP reading and primary O2 voltages as suggested by the manual, both appeared to be normal. It seems all the symptoms point to valve clearance, however the valve were adjusted not 2000 miles ago by the dealer during the 150K service, and this issue has existed before and after that adjustment. I also cleaned the IAC screen with no changes.
View 5 Replies2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
I got a mkv R32 with 57k miles (DSG transmission) on it and the past few weeks ive been having some crazy issues. My car shuts off once in awhile when I come to a stop in traffic or at red lights. Last night it happen again I came to a red light and the car shut off, when I restarted it my idle was bouncing all over the place all the way up to 2500rpm and down to 1300rpm. Also, in addition to the idle every time i started pressing the gas the car would KICK like something was wrong with the transmission and a CEL came on. I ran the codes and it said MAF was at fault and I have had a MAF code again maybe a month ago.
I am thinking of replacing the MAF to see if it fixes the problem and I was wondering if it is a straight hardware swap or will i need to do some programming with a vag com?
I got a 99 jeep sport straight 6. AC works fine after topping off. Pressure 32 l/s 210 h/s could still be a little low but air is very cold. Problem is while drive compressor shuts off. I thought it may have been too low causing it to kick off. while in park & holding rpm's at 2k everything seem to be ok.
It cycled on/off at times as normal but then compressor stopped & didn't come on again. shut the engine off checked the fuses restarted & the air is back running like normal?? so whats going on do I have a bad l/pressure switch or may be a relay sticking??while at 2k rpm's l/side 25 h/side 250 then at idle 32 & 210. I don't think its low enough to cause the shut off but.....
1997 Subaru SVX (Alcyone) LSi, 3.3L H6 engine.
My SVX was driven from Denver to Las Vegas, NV and it developed an odd habit where the RPMs would start to oscillate while on cruise control. I had to disengage the cruise control to get the oscillations to stop. Three days later I was driving the SVX to work and the RPMs started oscillating at idle and the car started running rough and it died.
These things have all been replaced with OEM grade parts: Spark plugs, electric fuel pump & strainer & fuel filter, Mass Air Flow sensor, new air filter and fuses.
The car starts up fine but after a few seconds the RPMs begin to oscillate. Then the car tries to recover, the idle becomes rough, and the the RPMs drop very low and the engine shuts off.
I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and when I first got it, it revved too high well now it revs too low, when im at a stop light it revs at just barely above 0 RPMS and the engine will cut off. it just ate shutting off yesterday. I took my car back to the dealership to get it fixed and they said "there's nothing wrong with it" well now I just passed my warranty and it starts shutting off on me.
View 2 RepliesI've had the car for almost 5k miles, no issues. Only performance part on the car is a USP 3" catless down pipe with an O2 spacer. Car performed fine with it. Today I got an APR stage 1 93 octane tune. A few hours into the tune on my way home from work, I went to change lanes and the car hit some type of a wall with the RPMs. At around 3200 RPMs, the car felt like it went into limp mode. Did not let me pass 3200 RPMs. I got off the highway and had to keep the RPMs up because the car died at lights. Pulled into my driveway, plugged in my VCDS and there are absolutely no codes coming up. Nothing. But starting the car the car cranks and I have to give it gas for it I barely start.
View 24 RepliesIts been 1 thing after another with this car!!! i have a 02 passat with 1.8t eng. It loses power and shuts off!! its my wifes car and dont want her driving it until i can trust it again.
View 2 RepliesI've been searching for a few days, Can not find an exact same posted issue. 2004 Passat GLX 2.8 Auto FWD. The car starts great, will idle all day if you let it. Will move down the driveway or a small ways down the road and die. start it again, will start easy. die once it levels at idle. Also if you rev it, it will die within a second of revving. If you can get it high enough, say 4000+ it will die, but as the engine speed slows down it will catch again and come alive. and kinda repeat. will do that as long as you hold the gas down. after about 15mins of restarting, it will level out at idle and you can continue on your way. the fuel pump still runs for it's second after the engine dies, so i know it's still going. The car recently had new plugs put on, New brake switch, and the pcv hose that runs from passenger side valve cover to the rear of drivers side along the front was replaced with the same size rubber hose. it broke during new plug install. It idles smooth, drives good while acting right. but does have a noticeable power loss, but still very driveable.
View 1 RepliesWhile I am driving my Passat randomly shuts off and then will not start for 5 min - a few hours. No beeps or warnings, the car just shuts off. When I try to restart it, everything sounds normal, the engine turns over fine, but it just wont start.
View 4 RepliesSo I have a 2012 TDI. 55k miles on it. Maintained 100 percent at he dealer. My wife takes the car to work today and three blocks away from the house, the car shudders and shuts off won't turn back on. I go get her so she can take another car to work and when I try to crank the car, it says Engine off, Oil pressure. Car won't turn on.
View 3 RepliesWhen I'm listening to the radio and bring the car to a stop the radio shuts off when I turn the car off. Is there a way to get it to stay on until I open a door or something like that? It's kind of annoying if I'm in the middle of a news story to have to keep the car idling so I don't miss something.
View 17 RepliesOk so i was sitting at the light and my car was making weird noises like a computer was loading or something and then all of a sudden the car just randomly died ..
what is wrong???
Just passed 700 miles on my new baby, loving every minute of it. What I don't quite understand is why the remote start shuts off when you unlock the door. That just seems so counterintuitive. I'm sure there's a legitimate safety reason why, but it seems to add more wear to the motor by turning it off and on so many more times since one has to start it again once getting inside.
Any way to hack the system in such a way that once remote started the car doesn't shut off when you get in?
Logistically it might be an issue since I'm sure stepping on the brake would shut the car off when running on remote start (since no actual key gets inserted into a keyhole)...but then again the key being in proximity could permit driving the vehicle... I dunno.
What could be involved? I heard something about crank sensor or a TBA taking part on this.
View 9 RepliesFriend of mine has a 2000 Passat. He has a weird problem. The car will just shut off in the middle of driving and won't start for 1-2 hours.. the ECU was already replaced, along with some sensors.
View 3 RepliesSo this happens fairly regularly. only during part throttle, cruising, the acceleration and rpm will dip and fall for a second, then comes back. if i let off the gas when it happens and get back on it, it comes back sooner. about a year ago i got TPS CEL, changed the APS but it didn't fix anything.
Weird thing is, when using cruise i don't see it. at least it's not nearly as noticeable. I had some idle and misfire issues recently and found a broken coil the culprit. changed that out and fixed those issues.
What would cause this issue when using the pedal but not the cruise? I think it has something to do with the accelerator pedal sensor...i do notice the throttle cable going to the APS has a small nut on it and it looks like it can be adjusted, would that cause this issue? research says TPS doesn't fail....
I had the passenger sunvisor fall off when my 2007 Santa Fe was under warranty, so it got replaced for free. A few weeks ago the driver visor fell off. Since I have 70k, this one is going to be on me. I am tempted to use some epoxy and glue the thing in place. It won't be able to swivel to the left, but I seldom do that anyway.
When the visor falls out, it just dangles by the wires to vanity light. I press it back in with my thumb, but it falls out if I hit a bump.
it's mystifying to me when I read reports here that "the drain plug fell out," as just happened to an unfortunate Rav4 owner.
I can understand a drain plug, say, leaking due to crossed or stripped threads. But falling out? That means someone did screw the plug in far enough that it could hold oil for a while but didn't tighten it beyond finger tight. How does that happen? Whenever I install a drain plug I have a wrench in my other hand and tighten it snugly. it doesn't take much torque to keep the darn plug from falling out since there's roughly zero force on the thing.
So how does this happen? Are oil change monkeys so badly trained, distracted, or whatever, that they put a drain plug in by hand and forget to put a wrench on it? Is it that simple?