Passat (B6) :: Rough Idle / Lurches Forward At Stoplights And High Squeals Off The Throttle
Jun 9, 2011
I have searched a decent amount on this and it seems like there is a whole list of items that could cause these problems. The car is a 2008 Passat 2.0T with the tiptronic. It is the early 2008 so it still has the FSI motor. It only has 53k on it and literally just came out of warranty a month or two before this all started happening.
It all started with the CEL coming on and the went into limp mode. We shut it off and turned it back on, the car went into limp mode again but upon the 3rd restart the car started and ran just fine. Then for a few weeks we just had a CEL (I don't know what code it was because I never scanned it at the time). Now as of lately the car is have a terrible rough idle, and at stops it will start kinda shaking and lurching forward. Sometimes it will also have a noticeable misfire upon start up. Also after going at highway speeds for some time the car will start to produce a squealing noise when not producing boost.
A few days ago I scanned it and these codes came back:
P0110
P0101
P0102
P0104
P0108
P0171
The first 5 IIRC are related to misfires and the P0171 is a lean code.
At first I thought this was the PCV valve because I had read about the lurching and the squeal that someone else had from that but after reading up more on things I am worried the P0171 is from the cam follower.
At this point I am just very tired of hearing my wife constantly complaining about the car. I want to try and figure this out without throwing part after part at it. I can't afford to buy items just to find out they aren't fixing it.
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1993 3.0 .... My son's van. He complained of fluctuating and mostly high idle, black smoke from exhaust and stalling at stoplights. He has other wheels so I've had it for several months until I could check it.
I started it every few weeks, it started easily. Have not seen smoke but it did idle high and rough. Yesterday I started it to warm it up to finally pull codes. Temp needle barely moved and upper radiator hose did not get very warm but I pulled codes with engine off anyway and got 116, 10, 111.
Today i got a little smarter and noted that the upper hose began to get warm right after startup. Suspecting a bad thermostat I blocked the radiator as well as I could and it warmed up much more, though still not near the middle of the temp gauge. Shut engine off and pulled codes again and this time got 111,10, 111.
With engine running, got 6, only-- and there's no code 6 in the code reader book. Jabbing gas pedal in neutral it nearly dies, jabbing gas in D and it dies and will not restart until cooled down.
Finally, checked again with engine off and got 111, 10, 110, 10. I think the ETC is OK since I didn't get 116 again but it still idles fast, speeds up and down erratically, and dies. Where do I go from here?
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The notorious 3.6 high idle has haunted me for over a year now. When it first started happening, I thought it was a temporary thing. It has been happening for a year now and the stealership has not been able to diagnose it. It has started happening more frequently now, no matter the weather. The idle overall is just rough. I place the car in neutral sometimes at a red light because the vibration and idel is so rough. The transmission is sluggish, and as i come to a stop sometimes, i can feel the rough downshifts it makes from gear to gear. And just today, after I picked up the car from the dealership from a failed diagnosis of the high rev problem, my parking sensors stopped working. When the system turns on(car in Reverse), there is a steady beep even while there is nothing behind me. Even as the car is moving(below 10mph) the car makes three beeps, every five seconds or so. I do not know what to do. I have a feeling that even if I take it to a different stealership, I will get the same results.
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Having issue which the car moves a bit after putting it on Park?
When I set the car to P and release my foot off from the brake pad, the car lurches forward a bit then locks itself down.
Another issue i have with the brake is when I fully stop and release the brake, i hear a noise. I can't really describe the noise.
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I've had my 08 r32 for about two months now, it has 93k on the clock. The dsg is great in everyway except in low gears/speeds. Especiially in traffic, it lurches forward or slows down rapidly like it dosant know weather to shift down to first or stay in second. Jumpy when starting off in first like I have to feather the gas pedal just right so it doesn't jump off the Line.
I took it into vw service center last week for diognostics test, they said everything was fine trouble code wise but they wii send the results to vw tech center and ask for advice. I got a call back today they want to do a cycle test, test drive the car with reset values and then cycle 6 times. From cool back upto operating temp etc and find out the results.
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I've had my 2011 Prius II for two months, and I love it. One little thing bugs me, however. I have noticed that sometimes when I apply the brakes, the car lurches forward a little bit. But I keep the brake pedal on, and the car does stop. Is there something wrong with my brakes, or is this something that has to do with the regenerative braking?
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I have a 2012 Prius with 15000 miles on it. In the year I have had it, I have had this problem a few times. On rare occasions while I am braking the car seems to lurch forward. In particular I have noticed it while braking and hitting a bump. The problem is that when this happens the car seems to jump forward while the brakes are being applied. My foot is on the brake when it happens, but I am not braking suddenly. That rules out any anti-lock braking. I have had the dealer look at it but since it didn't happen on their test drive they couldn't figure anything out. They did open a case on it in case anything comes up.
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I have a 1986 Volvo 240. It has a button to push on the stick shift to put it in 5th gear. It drives and works fine except when I downshift from 5th gear. ..then it seems confused and has a hard time getting back into gear, it kind of hesitates and lurches forward. It will not go into reverse after it has been in 5th gear until I turn off the ignition, and start it again.
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It's hard to drive the Mk6 smoothly at low speeds. Creeping along at a snails pace the car lurches forward while trying to crawl along at about 5 mph in first gear ( 6 speed manual ).
I remember reading about replacing something that will cure this 'hiccup' in throttle response. What the part is? Is it a diverter valve or something ?
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What the fix is for my 2007 Mercury Montego Premier? When the car is in drive and the car is either stopped or at a slow speed such as at a stop light or pulling into a parking space, the car lurches forward. It is almost as if the computer is telling the car to step on the gas. I am concerned for my 16 year old daughter to be driving the car and have the car suddenly accelerate and get into a collision.
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I have an RX 330 with about 154K on it. I have noticed recently that (from a stop) when I press the gas there is a slight hesitation before the car lurches forward and continues down the road. Also, in general the car doesn't seem to have the get and go it once had. What I should look into to determine what might be causing this problem?
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Car is stock and I seem to be getting a lot of jerking when I am on and off of the throttle peddle. It feels like a combination of sloppy motor mounts and a throttle response issue. What may be causing this? I am willing to bet that the motor mounts are partly to blame but it seems that there is more going on here.
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Issue on my wife's 2002 SC430. Recently ran into the well-documented disappearing acceleration caused by one of the trifecta of sensors on the throttle (TPS, APPS, and Throttle motor). Replaced the throttle position sensor and seemed to resolve issue. As of about a week ago, however, the car has developed a hiccup that I can't diagnose. Here's what I've recorded and done so far:
Symptoms:
-Hesitation at 1800 or 2300(?) RPM under light throttle and increasing load (often on uphills).
-Throttle down-blip of 100-200 rpm momentarily, only lasts ~1 sec
-Noticable lurch to vehicle, slows down slightly, results in 0.08G accelerometer reading when kicks back in.
-Change in engine exhaust sound as if in C-gate gears on a downhill (sounds like engine braking).
-Sometimes happens repeatedly in quick succession - up to 8 times in 10 seconds.
-Not speed dependent
-Overall performance is fine, not sluggish or hesitating when you stomp on it.
-Intermittant issue, not replicable, happens at random.
-No error codes thrown, no CEL, no DSP lights.
-Consistent -14.7psi vacuum registering on OBDII
Actions taken:
-Recently replaced and tuned throttle position sensor
-Seafoam on a nearly empty tank for 3 mi, half-full tank for 40mi
-Italian tune-up
-Disassembled and cleaned MAF
-Cleaned air filter (K&N)
-Reset computer (battery grounded for 10 min)
So... the question is, what the heck is this? Here are a few thoughts of what to do next in order of easiest/most likely/least expensive:
-Remove ABS relay and check performance (maybe TCS is hitting brakes a little?)
-Check all vacuum lines
-Seafoam cleaning through vacuum lines
-Remove, disassemble and clean TB assembly
-Test continuity on throttle body motor
-Test continuity on VVT solenoids
-Test continuity on full range of APP Sensor
-Replace VVT filters
-Replace VVT solenoids
-Check spark plug torque?
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I just bought an '08 r32 a few days ago. '08 with 17k on the odometer.
At low speeds (parking lot or stop and go traffic), giving it light throttle, the car lurches as if someone was giving it throttle and letting go.
Is this what is known as the hiccup problem (fuel tank vent) or the mechatronics problem?
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Last week my wife's battery in her 03 Trailblazer was dead in the morning. I jumped it and it seemed fine all day. That night I tried to start it and it was dead again so I replaced the battery. The next day, she looked out at the parking lot at work and her lights were on after it sat for a while. She could not turn off the headlights no matter what. She said she heard a squealing noise under the hood.
I could not duplicate it when I got home, so I replaced what I think was the lowbeam relay. Later that night I looked, and her headlights were on. I got under the hood and the highbeam relay was squealing. I removed it and the lights went out. I replaced the relay with a new one, but the relay immediately squealed and the lights went on. I have the relay out now and the problem is gone, but we have no highbeams.
What is causing the relay to squeal and turn on the highbeams?
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Have an '03 Subaru Outback Ltd. 184k miles. Great car all in all. Has been burning 3-4 qts oil between changes every 3-4k miles. Stated idling rough after warms up [intermittently], slight 'shimmy' at stoplights. Check engine light on always, flashes at times when warms up but even then doesn't flash all the time. Took it to dealer for upcoming smog check, have a bad oxygen censor and possibly bad catalytic converter, but also said low compression no.2 cylinder--which is what I'm wondering about.
Without further diagnostics they're talking about perhaps new pistons, and/or valve job and/or short block rebuild. My questions are 1-is there any more diagnostics possible to narrow it down without pulling it apart? and 2-is it worth a rebuild or should I sell? Great car otherwise, they're talking 3-5k range for repairs, blue book on the car is 4-6k rough estimate? Been a great car all in all, aside from clutch replacement this is the first major repair issue.
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I have a 1991 Celica GT. 175K miles. The car recently developed an issue where it jerks back and forth at light throttle, sort of like a newbie trying to learn to drive a stick. It happens at pretty much any speed, but is less pronounced at the higher speeds (45 MPH). In addition, it will not idle at a constant speed and cycles between 1100 rpm and about 300... or kill.
I've taken the throttle body off and IAC valve off and cleaned them both but it didn't change the behavior. If I pinch the line to the MAP sensor, the idle straightens out at about 1100 rpm. Disconnecting the MAP sensor gives good idle, but no performance while driving, so not a solution.
Things I haven't done yet: check continuity on throttle position sensor, checked MAP sensor (how?).
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I have a 2004 V6 LE with about 135k miles. I cleaned the throttle body two weeks ago, just because I hadn't ever done it. It wasn't too dirty. Before the cleaning, it idled at < 1k revs. Now, when I start the engine cold, it revs at around 1500, sometimes higher. It goes back to normal after the engine warms up to operating temperature.
Also, I hear a very slight high-pitched whining (maybe hissing?) noise when I accelerate. The noise is more prominent when the engine is cold. I checked for vacuum leaks but couldn't find any.
It feels like I'm depressing the gas pedal a little bit when I have it in drive or reverse, and it wants to pull harder than usual. When I bring the car to a stop with light brake pressure, as it drops into first gear, the car gives a slight tug forward, again, as if the gas pedal is depressed. I mention this to show that it's not just an issue with the rpm at startup.
I suspect that the issue lies with the throttle position sensor, which I may have jostled when I moved the throttle valve. The method I used when cleaning was, I first tried opening the valve by hand with the ignition off, but the resistance was much higher than I had anticipated. So I did the key-in method by turning the ignition to ON and putting a brick on the gas pedal. There was a high-pitched whine coming from somewhere in the engine bay when the key was ON, which I had not noticed before; I wonder if that is normal.
This seems to be a rather common issue after cleaning the throttle body cleaning, but there doesn't seem to be any consensus solution besides to wait it out.
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2002 Camry XLE.
I cleaned my throttle body today. Since the throttle plate moves by a motor, in order to keep it open, I turned the key to ON and held the gas pedal down by using some weight.
After I put everything back, the idle was high 2000+, then stays at 1300 to 1400 range. I drove about 10 miles and it is still the same. When stopped at a light in drive, the idle is still 1000
Did I mess up the e-throttle or the throttle position sensor? (Since I used a weight to hold the gas pedal down, I am worried now).
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I cleaned my daughters throttle body on her 2005 prius. Sprayed it down on the vehicle trying to fix my P0505 code and now its idling high. Is there a learn procedure to reset this after service.
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I finally finished installing my VF stage 2 supercharger. I fired it up and the idle is low (around 500 rpms) and a very rough idle. Throttle response is very slow, when it finally revs the car stalls. I can also hear a leak somewhere near the throttle body. I have an SAI block off plate. 630cc injectors and UM tune. No CEL
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