I've been getting a really "rough" gear shift between first and second, almost like someone hit my car from behind. All other gears are super smooth though. No error's on VAG COM or anything. I'm just a bit confused if an error's are thrown or is it something the dealer needs to identify?
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 Expy 5.4 with AWD. The issue is when in Drive it is only in 1st. I can manually shift it to 2nd. If I get it up to 40 and shift it back to drive it just reeves if I am going 30 and do that it throws it back in 1st.
So I searched a lot of the forums, I asked the previous owner some questions. Been 80 to 90k since the last tranny fluid change. Said he tighten the shift cable when it first noticed it was not shifting right and then it started to shift hard (squeal the tires). I ordered a rebuilt valve body assembly, came with plate, solenoid, accumulator and valve body. The supplier indicated this was the fix for my symptoms.
I dropped the pan. A bolt from the solenoid was in the pan. No magnet. The oil smelled more like axle grease, but did not really see signs of metal sludge in the pan or filter. Dropped all the components, yeah that accumulator plate is not for the faint of heart, I found all the rubber fortunately.
I found a couple decent pictures showing where they go in the tranny, the plate pictures were missing to many of the 'other' holes to use that as a guide. I saw a comment to use petroleum jelly to hold in place, I used that trick and it seemed to work. Put everything back together, torqued all the valve body nuts and bolts to 8 ft lbs, figure that is approx. 96 inch lbs and in the 80 -100 recommendation, new filter. Added 8 qts of oil back into the pan.
With it still on the stands started it up and went thru the gears down and up stopping in each one. Set it down and went for a test drive. Same exact behavior. Drive is first, can manually upshift to 2nd, put back in Drive at a slow speed and it goes to first, at a high speed it acts like it is in neutral. What I missed, do I have a clutch problem, or ?????
Today, without explanation the shift indicator on the dash on my 98 Passat Wagon highlights all gears. When you shift to any gear. . . . the display does not change. Further, shifting is rough from 'park.'
I noticed this problem after looking at all the fuses to see why the radio was not powering up. I have checked fuses. . . . and unplugged the battery and plugged it back in.
Our 2005 SE 4-cyl Camry has a rough shift going most likely from 2nd to 3rd gear @ around 27-30 mph. I always notice it when we come to a specific stop near our Volleyball facility. We come to a stop, it's a residential area so no need for fast acceleration, but it's almost like clock work when it happens. Like it's not going to engage, and then it does and it kind of jerks the car somewhat. Fluid is fine and also Trans was serviced at Toyota.
View 7 RepliesI bought my 2011 sonata gls last year and it has always had a bit of an issue when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The best way to describe it would be if someone where dumping the clutch and you get that sudden, hard acceleration with a bit of rev flare and then back down the lower revs. It doesn't do it every time it shifts, but enough that it is very annoying. I've had it in the dealership twice for this issue but I get the same "We can replicate the issue" song and dance. They tell me there is no code, and no history of any code. I had the trans position sensor replaced under warranty late last year.
View 19 RepliesI Have a 2000 Passat 30 valve v6. I got a low oil pressure message figured I could make it to the store for some oil. Well I turn a corner and heard a valve rattle and the car started to idle rough. I was two quarts low but the noise and the rough idle still exist. In neutral the noise is not noticeable. Driving the noise is only noticeable at high RPM. The car doesn't smoke and otherwise runs fine.
View 1 RepliesMy wife has a stock 03 Passat 1.8t.
1. The car seems to shift too soon from 2nd to 3rd and i can hear the turbo drop pressure. It sounds like a quiet blow off 3 or 4 times when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
2. There is a vacuum control valve that sits on top of the air cleaner box and it ticks a lot. it has a electric plug going to it.
3. The car has a rough idle while in drive and sometimes shifts hard. I changed plugs, trans flush and filter change.
I would take the car to a VW dealer but the closest one is about a hour away and my wife needs the car.
When driving in Sport Mode I have a violent down shift as the car slows and heads into second gear from third. It doesn't seem to matter if I am going 40 miles an hour around town or 70 miles an hour coming off the freeway. There has been a few times where the jerk is so hard that seatbelt tensioner tightens. Is this a normal aggressive function of the sport setting, or is this something else? Perhaps related to the transmission valve/hard second gear shift issue?
View 24 RepliesAbout, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
Looking for a pic or diagram or able to explain it well, of how the valve body engages the shift linkage/kickdown on a c6. I need a pic of the actual valve body itself and how it engages INSIDE the pan NOT externally.
View 14 RepliesWhat are the symptoms of the clutch slip.
View 2 RepliesCar is 2000 Corolla with 60k miles that sometimes has a low idle (sometimes) when driven for the first 15 minutes early morning. Especially when accessories turn on, the RPM drop suddenly to 600 and recovers to 623 then back to 650rpm. After 15 minutes, everything works fine (normal 650 rpm)....my guess is the IAC Valve/throttle body needs cleaning.
What exactly do I need to tell me mechanic? That both the IAC Valve and throttle body needs to be clean? Also, after "cleaning it using a spray"....should he wait till the "spray dissipates"? What happens if it goes inside the engine?
I started my Subbie and all the lights just start going crazy on my dash. So I pulled of the road and started freaking out, Never had a hint of a problem. So I pulled in AutoZone and they ran the codes and now I'm being told I have to replace the brain to my transmission WTH? I don't own a DODGE!!! Had 3 different dodges and the tranny went on all. So I wont own one because of transmission problems. Now my Subaru has been parked since it can only get worse. Is this normal? All the error codes are...
P0700 Transaxle Control System (MIL Request)
P2762 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Range/Performance
I have a 2009 Camry which has the well known very bad vibration at idle when in drive at a light. My Ultragauge shows the RPM are very low when it vibrates. Sometimes it drops to around 425-450 rpm when at a stop light in drive (automatic car). Then it sometimes moves up to around 625-675 rpm and that is when the vibration completely disappears and it is nice and smooth. This issue is intermittent but happens everyday.
Most people think it is due to a bad engine mount and spend money doing that and get no results.
I have done a lot of research and feel it is due to a dirty throttle body and IAC valve and want to test my theory. I will post results once I do the job. What is the easiest and most thorough way to clean both?
I have a quick question about the control arms on the B5. I have an 01 Passat GLX 4motion, the was previously my mothers. She had the upper arms (iirc) replaced around 60k but not all of them. I got the car with 64k from her, and it now has 92k of mostly highway miles. I have a few clunks from the suspension but nothing crazy, and considering the shocks and dampers are probably shot i cant seem to tell if its the arms or the shocks.
View 1 RepliesDrove to work today and all was fine. Came out at 3 and started my Elantra up, dropped it into gear and it was ROUGH. Engine ran for a few seconds before I put it in gear. The shifts up the street were hard and the downshifts were equally hard. I put the transmission in manual--same thing. After a few minutes, the shifts returned to normal. No CEL. The car has 48,700 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesI just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
View 6 RepliesIv heard a few things about changing the valve body. I tow a trailer so was wondering on pros and cons of changing this. And also what brands are recommended.
View 5 RepliesI have had my 06 Passat 2.0t into the dealer twice and they have been unable to resolve a rough shift issue between 1st and 2nd. The first time they replaced the camshaft and cam follower (which makes no sense to me), the second time they said they did a software update.
I was under the impression that the software update to fix the rough shift removed the gear indicator in the MFD, but mine is still there. Each time when I get it back the transmission is much smoother for a couple days but progressively gets worse to the point I don't like driving my car (which I loved driving before this issue started).
I have read about a TSB being issued that advised a software update and the replacement of the valve body to resolve this, but I can't find the number for it.
So my 2006 m/t has about 85,000 miles on it and today the wife took a short trip in it. She called me 10 minutes in and said the car wouldn't shift into 2nd or 4th or 6th. I have noticed in the last 6 months that occasionally if i get on the gas and go to shift into 2nd, it will sometimes not catch and I assumed this was what she was talking about. She made it where she was going and on her return trip she says it shifted into 2nd once but then no more. I drove the car upon her return and it wouldn't go into 2nd, 4th or 6th. I would sometimes get a slight grinding sound and it was like it just wouldn't pull back far enough to go into gear. The shifter also felt to me to be in a different position no matter what gear it was in. It seemed more upright than normal and definitely not like it normally is. This was nothing like I had experienced before when it wouldn't engage. I saw a previous post where a shifter cable could break.
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 passat wagon - it hasn't been shifting right - sometimes it won't shift out of park, other times it won't sift out of 1st... we are wondering if it is worth fixing or if we should find a different car...
View 3 Replies