Passat (B6) :: Replacing Brake Lines - Banjo Bolt Torque Setting
Dec 26, 2012
Going to replace brake lines tomorrow and would like to confirm the torque spec on the actual banjo bolt as not to break them but also don't want to leave them too loose...
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I've experienced a fuel leak, I've checked all over, and the only thing I've came up with so far, was maybe its coming from the banjo bolt going into the front of the driver side head.. I cant really get to it good enough to tell though..
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As the title implies I need the part # for the OEM VW Stretch bolt that holds the Torque Arm insert in place. I've had the mount on my car for a few months now and I've grown tired of it.
I re-used the OEM bolt the first time and I think I'm better off replacing it as it may not be wise to unbolt it and re-torque it for a third time. Looking for the part # for the stretch bolt? I believe it's 21mm.
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How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
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I plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
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I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block.
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Looking for ccess to a '13 Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) that states the torque specification for the oil pan drain bolt on the 3.5L?
If the '13 FSM is similar to the '05 FSM, the torque value will appear on the diagram that shows the oil pan assembly. I believe the spec is 30 ft-lbs (with a new washer), but I want to confirm.
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Couldn't get the bolts out of the bushings so just bought new mounts. Was wondering to have the torque value for the u-bolts...
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I am installing Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro on my Yellow Submarine. To keep an eye on things. Well installing it on my tablet, and installing that in my Yellow Sub. I already have the Bluetooth dongle. What to set up, what to monitor, what to test? Etc..... I want to continuously monitor this truck while driving it. Being it went swimming.
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2011 Lexus RX350 ... What are the Torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts (front and rear caliper brackets) a pdf will be great
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I looked around and couldn't find the specs for the valve cover bolts.. I'm assuming it'll be a pretty low torque like 20 ft-lbs.
This'll be the 2ZR-FE 1.8L engine.
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What the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
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I am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
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Searched with no results. What is the correct bolt torque for transmission pan bolts on a 2012 F350 6.7L?
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Yesterday , my feed fuel line was dry rotting and leaking gas so I bought 516 fuel injection hose and replaced them. Pulled fuse 28 , started the car and let it die to release pressure , fixed the hoses and put the fuse back in and now it just cranks forever. I have spark , and I'm getting fuel just not sure if it's adequate pressure. When I open the door the pump did sound a little funny when it primed. I'm gonna pull it out and check it later but right now I'm completely stumped. I did this last night around 8pm and it's 4:30 am the next morning and still not start.
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Having problems setting driver comfort controls after replacing the battery. Does the car have to go thru a relearn process before all will come back to normal?
Used to be able to keep A/C set on auto. Now the A/C and fan motor won't come on unless you turn A/C to Off and then hit the AUTO button.
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I made a thread in the F150 section but maybe it should have went here. Anyhow I'm replacing the front shocks on my 99 150, and well the bushing was completely seized up to the bolt on the bottom of the shock and I ended up breaking the one side of the shock mount off with it. I can't see any easy way of getting it off, I fear I might run into the same problem with the other side.
Would it be ok to just bolt the new shock back on, sans the forward mount? If its just bolted through the rear bolt hole will there be too much play? I really don't feel like replacing the whole lower suspension arm on this beater truck, and I dont think my welding skills are up to that. I don't think my little stick welder even has enough heat.
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I have a 1990 legacy and just replaced the water pump gasket and now it is leaking out of an upper bolt head on the pump and how to cure this....
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seem to be losing brake fluid from the area of the ABS system and it dripping down on the brake lines underneath. Noticed this when draining excess oil from the engine (dealers!!!!). I'm thinking this has been leaking a long time. I have the worst luck finding a reputable mechanic anymore and if I can't trust a dealer...
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I'm looking at replacing the fuel lines in my 94 F150 and the big question is what to do with hooking up to the fuel lines coming out of the fuel pump hat and the fuel rails? Ford uses a specialized pressure fitting on it's custom fuel lines. I think there may be some third party fittings that would replace these, but I'm not sure. I could use a standard hose and cable clamps, but I just don't trust that kind of connection for a fuel line.
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2005 Sierra 4WD 1500 Crew Cab.
My 2005 Sierra, with only 42,000 miles on the odometer, has been stricken by the corroded brake lines syndrome. So far, only one line has burst - a line to the left front brake - spraying brake fluid all over the exhaust manifold and leaving me with rear brakes only. I'd like to know, before borrowing a car and heading off to the parts store for a generic length of pre-flared tubing, what the tubing diameter is (i.e. 1/4" or 6mm) and what the thread gauge on the fittings is.
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