Passat (B6) :: Rear Left Wheel Has More Brake Dust Than Others
Apr 26, 2007
Overall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
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97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
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I am going to have to replace the rear dust shields and emergency brakes soon. I was wondering if we have this documented somewhere. The main question is do we need to remove the axle to replace the shield.
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I just had my 10k service and noticed my two front tires still had a significant amount of brake dust and the rear tires did not. I always have more brake dust on the front than the rear and was the case when I dropped the car off. The service guy said they rotated from front to back but that didn't happen. I was under the impression they moved front to back and vice versa. What is the standard rotation for tires at the prescribed service intervals?
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On my way into work this morning, I started to notice a rattling sound coming from my left rear wheel. By the end of my :45 min drive, it was a loud continuous bang. After limping the car to my office, I inspected the recently repaired rear shock to find the bolts securing it to the vehicle were gone!
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First of all, except for my current problem, I love the combination of Brembo disks and PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads on the front and rear of my 1998 Passat 1.8t Sedan for daily driving. The feel is great, less dust than OEM or others, consistent performance in wet driving (much much better than Mintex Redbox pads). Initially had a bit of squeal on the pads after about 300 miles, but then after some heartbreaking that went away and I have had over 3000 miles of squeal-free and consistent braking..... at least until more recently.
In January (~1000 miles ago), I switched from my summer wheels to my winter wheels. Ever since then, I have had an almost consistent squeal from my left rear brake setup. It occurs at the latter half of pressuring when the car has slowed. I've tried really hard freeway braking which works (for a few more breaking events). I've tried resetting the bolts on that wheel (I always use a torque wrench). That only solves it for a couple of braking events.
I have even removed the wheel, rotated the rotor on the hub and reset the wheel. Still no luck. The brake and rotor surface look in great condition, and there is definitely no play in the hub nor is their any warping evident - no pulsation at all. Everything is torqued properly. I have been able to get rid of the squeal for about 10 breaking events by riding the parking brake while at higher speeds for more than 5 secs. Sometimes with really hard braking it goes away for a short while. Then, in either case, it comes back.
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is it just a 337 thing? but, the rear wheel on the left is poked out farther than the wheel on the right. I didn't measure it just yet but it looks as it's almost a 5mm difference. I didn't realize it until today when an old friend was inspecting my car.
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Here's what I am running into. I have factory setup and it doesn't feel adequate. I get vibrations, lots of brake dust on front wheels, and just don't feel I have the stopping power if needed in emergency or towing. Especially with how heavy my 6.0 is already.
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Have a lot of noise when braking? If I stop the car quickly with heavy braking I generally have no squeaking until about the last second when I am letting back up off the pedal.If I am just stopping slowly, the brakes will squeak for the entire distance of the stop.I don't have excessive brake dust showing up on my rims. And it doesn't really work if I wash the rims and spray off the pads and rotors. It may squeak less for the first time braking but will be back to its normal self by the time I brake the second time. I am at 8K miles right now and I'm pretty sure this has been going on since the beginning.
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So about a day ago I finished installing my new rotors and pads.. I thought my vibrations are gone.. But I took it for a ride today.. When i brake really hard my steering wheel shakes lightly left and right.. Also when turning right there is a sound coming from the drivers side like the rotor is scraping against something or the rotor shield..? I installed the retainer spring and the first night when i took it for a ride everything was perfect.. Today its making that noise and the steering wheel as well as the vibration..
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Need to identify what could this be? It used to come and go, now it's constantly here. I took it to the dealer but there was a 3 hour waiting time, so I might have to go another time. If you do know what is it, could I fix it myself? While driving there's no squeaking, but I can hear a metal on metal sound while on bad roads, the type of noise you would expect from a bad tie rod or something like that, on good roads it's fine. The noise you can hear on the video happens when I push the car side to side. [URL] .....
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I have been driving a 2000 accent with 146k miles on it, and while driving home I thought I had a flat tire. Get out, tires look fine, so I give one (passenger side rear) a light kick with my toe, and it moves. I can wiggle it about 1/4 inch of play, and when lifted on a jack, the wheel rotates just fine so I don't know if its a bearing issue, the shock also turns with the wheel, left/right. The driver side rear doesn't do this so I decided to park it and not drive. What it is?
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When I move the wheel to the left, I get this metal grinding sound (similar to rust on brake rotors/worn down brake pads). It happens when the foot is off the brake and ONLY when the wheel is turned to the left.
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So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
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Coming from an mk4 jetta with solid rear beam i know how the one side can be out a bit from the other. that being said the mk6's rear eand shouldn't be doing that at all right???
Because on my 2010 golf the right rear wheel sticks out more about 1/4" or so than the left. im on air and just got a full alignment done last week with my rear camber set @ -3 degrees on ride height. coz now im rubbing ever so little on bumps on the right rear that is why i noticed. i guess my question....is it normal for mk6's to have this too? if not...what coud be the cause of this?
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At 46,400 miles of gentle driving, my left wheel bearing failed on my 2010 Prius, which was not covered by warranty because it is not 'drive train'. I was told there was nothing I did or could have done to cause this. I have had 4 Toyotas, two with over 200,000 miles, and never had this serious a repair (that wasn't my fault!). Am I being unreasonable to think this is unusual? I'm wondering if this car is going to continue to be a problem.
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Own a 2007 Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix). Anyway, do a lot of driving on gravel roads, and the rear window is always covered in mud or dust. Any type of deflector available to alleviate this ?
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Experienced a buzzing noise from left rear wheel well. I have noticed it a couple of times after the car has been parked in the garage and sitting for awhile. The dealer said it is normal and the auto suspension readjusting. However, it will continue for a long time but will turn off if I start it up. I am concerned this normal leveling will burn out the motor in do time. We have a 2010 premium.
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Very annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
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On my father in law's 06 Saturn Vue, we replaced rear shoes, springs and drums. His left rear shoes are now locking up usually after the car sits for about an hour or two. It happens when he backs up and then puts it in drive. He gets about 30 feet and the brakes lock up, and upon test driving it i cannot recreate the condition. I do notice a chatter like war pattern on the shoes, and wheel cylinders are not leaking, although upon braking with the drums off, the wheel cylinders do appear to be a little weak. could this cause the lock up, or could it be a defective drum? I've thought about swapping left and right drums.
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I have a 2003 hyundai elantra gt. All the lights and bulbs work, except for the rear left brake light. I've replaced it twice now, and used a bulb I know was good, so the problem is not a bulb. I checked the fuse, and the fuse is ok as well. When I measure at the bulb socket with an ammeter I get around 20 mA which I assume is too small and I assume there is a loose wire somewhere.
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