I just returned from the stealership for the 30K service on my 2006 Passat. The dealer says the back brakes will need replacement soon and there is a special tool for opening the caliper due to the electric parking brake. What tool do I need to do this myself? I have done brakes many times and normally it is a 30-45 minutes job for both axles. Also, with that few miles, will I need new rotors?
View 22 RepliesSo I need to put some new brakes on the rear of the B6 but as I remember hearing there is a hydraulic that holds the brakes in place. Apparently they have to be disabled via VAGCOM. Is there any way around this?
View 12 RepliesSo my wife has 12 GTI with just under 30K on it. We purchased it brand new beginning of 2013. She was just in for oil change at the dealer in January. The told her she had 75% of the rear brake pads remaining. Today she heard a grinding noise and took to the dealer. They told her she has 25% remaining on the rear pads the rear rotors are completely rusted and need to be replaced. This just doesn't make sense to me.
They told her it is because of the way she drives. So in the last 4 months her driving habits suddenly changed? The front pads are completely fine. I just don't get how the rear pads and rotors needs to be replaced at 30,000 miles. Dealer tried to get it covered but VW said no. They told us to call customer service. This is ridiculous. I am certainly going to file a case with VW tomorrow. BTW they also told her the 2 front tires need to be replaced.
2003 LE Camry i want to replace Rear brakes. Is there a DIY for it. I know it is challenging...
View 10 RepliesWhat size sockets do I need in order to complete a brake pad replacement for my rear brakes?
Also, what are the torque specs for each bolt I will be refastening?
And just in case a bolt breaks... what size bolts are used on the calipers?
This is my first time working on drum breaks, all the repair manuals and videos don't make it look too bad. I did have a question about the parts required to replace the rear breaks.
Assuming these breaks are very worn. What parts would need to be replaced in a typical break job.
The pics below are what I'm planning on buying:
Shoes
Rotors
Drum
Hardware Kit
Is there anything that I'm missing?
Have to replace both rear brake lines, I can't find any information about doing the job. I need to know what size the lines are and what type of flair is on the ends?
View 2 RepliesMy car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
OK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
View 3 RepliesI'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
View 13 RepliesI replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
View 1 RepliesLooking for instructions on how to remove the plastic trim covering the rear passenger vent between the 2 front seats. pictures would be nice . this is for the 2010 passat wagen, which should be the same for all 2010 passats I am guessing.
View 1 Repliesso while replacing the rear brake lines in my 2001 F-250. / 5.4, the flex line that drops from the frame bolts to the axle through the axle breather threaded vent line. The friggin thing crumbled on me and now I can't find a replacement for it. Where I can get it or what it's actual name / part number is so I can call the Ford dealer and hope it's not obsoleted?
View 3 RepliesI need detailed instructions for how to replace the right (passenger's side) rear turn signal bulb socket and the subassembly that holds the remaining bulbs and inserts into the tail light assembly. I've done this once before successfully but now can't seem to make it work now.
Without the subassembly inserted and locked into place with its locking tabs, the turn signal bulb locks into place in its socket, and that socket in turn easily inserts and locks into place in the hole in the outboard corner of the lens through the rear of the lens assembly. However, I can't seem to install both the turn signal bulb in its socket and the subassembly that holds the rest of the bulbs. The two contacts on the underside of the rim of the turn signal bulb socket would indicate that that the socket installs after the subassembly, but then it has nothing to plug into. When it's installed first, I don't see how the bulb would be energized.
The owner's manual of course says to have the dealer handle maintenance in this area.
My car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
One of my neighbors has a Passat and the rear middle brake light on the wing will not turn off... Every time I've driven by for the past 3 days or so it's been on. I told the girl about it and she said they can't get it to turn off. I drive a Jetta and a 91 at that... but I was wondering, is this a common problem with Passats? I felt the need to investigate, being a VW enthusiast
View 3 RepliesSo my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesOverall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
What tool I need to replace the rear disc/pads in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T. I believe is called a wind back tool and I have seen it in the web.
View 1 RepliesWhat's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
View 11 RepliesI recently noticed that both of my break lights are out but the light in my rear window works but the other two do not. I was told it was a brake light switch but I am confused on why the window light is working and not the others i feel they should all be connected???
View 4 Replies