Passat (B5) :: CV Joint Or Axle On Driver (right) Side Blew Out While Driving
Jan 8, 2012
Just to clarify, I've got a UK spec B5 wagon, manual, 1.8T (AEB, I believe) and it's a 2000. Last night when I was driving home, either my CV joint or axle on the driver (right) side blew out. Needless to say, I'm going to replace my axles or just the outer joints, but I've been shopping around and I'll find parts that will fit an A4 with a 5 speed and AEB but not a Passat, or parts that fit strictly AUG or ATW engine codes. How would I go about finding which axle will actually fit my car?
Here's a video so you can hear the noise : [URL] .....
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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Looking for a good DIY video on removing drivers side cv joint, my joint broke and I removed it however the inner joint inner spline is still in the trans, there is a c clip on the shaft of the new cv joint that I'm assuming is holding it in. I just don't know if pressure is all I need to pull it out.
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Picture if you will...Removed tire, caliper and rotor. Removed hub, and knuckle containing the stub shaft/spindle with it's yoke for the U joint. You are now looking at the end of the axle tube, with the axle shaft in it, one end connected to the differential carrier, the other end has the yoke for the U joint on it. Just inboard of the yoke, is a seal. Apparently it's called a "dust seal" is there a bearing behind this, or is the first bearing all the way in at the differential? When I was doing my brakes, I noticed the passenger side u-joint is shot, and the axle wiggles around in the dust seal. Figured I'd replace the seal while I was doing the U joint. Also, how do I get the axle shaft out? Just pull, or do I have to remove a C clip from the inboard end? What is the right National part number for the seal? I have a 6/2000 Excursion.
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So my rear driver side tire blew at 24k miles. Dropped with Tein H techs when I first bought and had it aligned via lexus. 14 months later and tire blew. The thread on the tire was very worn on the inner side of the tire so I had to exchanged them both. I order the Michelin ps2 and now it's rubbing ?
Why is the Michelin rubbing when the tires are the exact same specs as factory? Didn't know I had to get camber kits for just H Techs.
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I noticed a slight rumble in my 05 Prius (120,000 miles) a few months about. I start noticing the noise around 40mph and at high speeds(65-70 ISH) It goes away. While poking around tonight I found that the back drivers tire is wore a lot more than the right. Also I wiggled the drivers side CV joint and it moves in and out. Also there seemed to be a little "gunk" built up around it. I'm taking it in this weekend for a transmission fluid change and going to have them look at it.
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Today I noticed a oil spot on the ground under my car about the size of a silver dollar. It had been sitting for about 24hrs. It was super thick, almost like honey. It seems like its coming from above the dr side cv joint. It doenst look like transmission fluid at all though, it has no red tinge to it whatsoever. This was the first time I noticed it, I'll try to take some pics of it.
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I have an '03 Passat GLX Sedan. My driving/fog light is out on the drivers side. How to take off the bottom plastic grill and access the driving light? I think it is just a bulb. However, if I need a whole new light, any recommendation for both the bulb and the whole assembly.
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So now that it is becoming colder out (40's in the morning 50's in afternoon) I have been experiencing signs that an inner joint on one of my axles is going bad. When driving while the vehicle is still cold, and even when it is just warmed up, I have bad vibrations while accelerating. I've ruled out other things and even had the car in the air and had it checked out at a stealership but of course they couldn't reproduce any of the vibrations. It was warm out the day of the appointment.
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I just replaced the ball joints on my 99 F250 SD 4x4. Driver side was a bit stiff to turn the knuckle. Passenger side is very hard to turn. The upper stud wanted to turn in the sleeve after torquing to spec. I had to lean on it to lock it into place. I have to check today to see if parts store is open to get a new set. The brand name is "Drive Works". I have installed ball joints in this vehicle previously, and in another Ford truck with the same style. I have the proper tools to do the job. I have to determine if both joints are tight or just the upper. I won't buy the same brand again.
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OK I need to replace just the boot, joint is fine. I have everything disassembled but cannot get the cv joint off the end of the axle. What am I missing here? All other CV Joints just come off with a few whacks of a hammer. Is there something special on these I'm missing?
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My driver side axle went out. Just wondering what are our choices out there for the o2m 6spd tranny. My cousin and I ordered a set from some axle store but I doubt they are giving us the right part. ECS had them for about $300, thinking about raxles too..
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Looking for info on changing out my left front cv joint axle.My boot is busted on the outter axle but iam going to change out the hold axle then my inner and outter are done the same time.Is there any body that attempted this on there own or a good thread that explains the steps to take on this job.My ride is a 2004 camry auto with the four bagger.
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I unstuck my front axles yesterday and while under the car spinning the front axles freely and enjoying my easy fix, I noticed a rubber seal (a thick squared edge round rubber seal) sitting loose and spinning freely. Its next to the axle joint, right before it disappears into the housing.
I'm guessing this is a dust seal of some kind. There is no fluid leaking out...
I'm wondering if I can just press fit this thing back into place or do I have to take the whole front wheel assembly (hub, bearing, axle, etc) to get the seal back into place.
I'm wondering if it broke off from a larger seal or if this is the whole thing? You can see how the seal isn't sitting quite straight. It actually just spins around.
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I just bought a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS, yesterday. 167k. Some faded paint on top areas, dead battery & in need of driver's front CV joint axle i believe, clicks when going around corners. Starts without hesitation, no smoke, no ticking, very clean and has only had 1 owner.
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The setup is:
MK IV .:R32 with 99,000 miles
Stage 2 clutch with 16.5 lbs. single mass flywheel
The clutch, flywheel & throw-out bearing all have about 20,000 miles on them
For some strange reason it looks like my driver's side axle keeps sliding out from it's position in the differential. This 1st happened after I did a dyno run about 6,000 miles ago. I lost half of my transmission fluid cause the axle shaft back out about a half inch. I guess the spindle stopped the shaft from backing out all the way. It appears to have happen again. What holds this axle in position? What keeps the axle from backing off like this?
My shop said the bearing/seal looked new and in good condition. Besides, it's a $15 part. We believed that the axle just snapped into position but after 4 nights at the drag strip it appears to be leaking again.
CV joints look good. Axle looks good. Transmission and differential all look good. Dog gone axle just keeps sliding out. Did the dyno runs damage something?
ALSO, on night two I did 4 strong passes back to back. Some with wheel slip and others hooked up solid. That night I developed THE HAMSTER WHEEL. Thought it was just a heat shield but I hear a noise that can only be explained by HAMSTER WHEEL. It only seems to happen when driving slow and on then off the clutch. Is it the dust shield? Is my rear main seal damaged? Or is it my timing chains on the way out. It only sounds funny at slow speeds with clutch movement. Too hard to trouble shoot alone.
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My mechanic told me that something was wrong with the driver's side front axle of my 1990 Mazda 323, which has been a dream car for 21 years. He got a new axle to put in but could not get the old one out. Now it is at another mechanic's, and he also can't remove the old axle. He says there is a pin on the end and it is stuck inside the transmission (a 5-speed manual transmission). He has broken the axle trying to remove it, and now it cannot be driven.
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Did ball joints this weekend and now have little axle fluid leaking out passenger side. was going to change axle fluid when i saw this so continued and when pulled the fill plug i would say 8oz or more came draining out. Did I mess up the seal inside the tube?
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As I had the wheel off to change my tie rod end on my 2003 Camry, I noticed this gunk surrounding the driver side cv axle. I have changed the axle within the last year and there appears to be no grease on the rubber boot itself.
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I noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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