Have a pulsing noise when the HVAC is turned on (see other post about HVAC pulsing noise etc). I've traced the sound to behind the glove box, I suspect near where the cabin air filter is. I believe the blower motor is back there too? How to remove glove box to get to blower assembly...
View 1 RepliesWhen my hvac controls are turned to hot, I'm getting only luke warm air. When moved over to cold it feels like the a/c is on...granted it is 21 degrees here. What I've done so far:
1. Flushed the coolant system at the local COOP TBA
2. Flushed heater core-Both heater hoses are hot to the touch as well as the heater core itself. The hoses are within 10 degrees of each other tested by an infrared temp gauge.
3. Verified the blend door actuator is moving. I can see it spin while attached to the box as well as I pulled it out and plugged it in it will move from hot to cold.
4. Smacked the #$%! out of the blend door box.
The fan still functions as it should from low to high. The truck also gets up to operating temp as usual.
Is it possible the actuator is still faulty even though it moves and not going all the way to the heat side? I considered picking up a replacement but I hate to start throwing parts at it.
Did the blend door give up? The snow is here and I need the heat for those 4am waterfowl hunting trips.
I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
View 2 RepliesI need to determine what this sound is. We just got an 07 Certified Pre-Owned Passat with about 30k miles on it. We've noticed a pulsing, rhythmic sound when going above 50mph. Some observations:
The sound starts literally at 50mph and is present at any speed above that.Sound is speed insensitive. It is a constant rhythm at any speed above 50mphSound is NOT present when in Park and revving the engine ( I think this rules out the turbo, not sure)Downshifting to 5th and 4th gear does not make the sound go away
I'll list some more if I think of any. I'm a noob with the 2.0T but have the tiptronic transmission in my MKV Rabbit and have never had any issue like this one.
Here's a video I recorded: [URL] ....
I suppose I should've started filming at 50mph, as opposed to a constant 80 in the video. The sound is the same though. You should be able to hear it starting in the first 10 seconds. The sound at 40 seconds is just me rolling down the windows.
Last week the breather valve was replaced because it got stuck and was making a whiney whistling sound. Dunno if that would be related.
What the random sound is when turning off the car? It almost sounds like a pump is running or a motor for something. Doesn't happen every time, so I can't get anyone else to listen to it. Wonder if it has something to do with the turbo?
View 8 RepliesThere is a fan noise every 30 seconds in the engine compartment behind the passengers headlight area. Is there a fan motor there? Could it be disconnected without hurting anything? I can't determine if there is a fuse related to this or not.
View 3 RepliesI started hearing loud fan like noise today. It stayed on for a bit after the car was turned off. I usually wouldn't mind lil bit of fan noise.. but this was horrific loud.. I'm guessing I just need to replace the fan.
View 11 RepliesJust got back from the supermarket. Unloaded groceries and my Passat wouldn't start when I went to park it. Turned the key and it just makes a clicking noise - clock and trip odometer reset themselves also. If I turn the key the car just makes a clicking noise and the lights on the dash all flash on and off.
I am going to see if it starts after being jumped in a few minutes.
Other potentially useful info - I was testing a radar detector for work the other day and it has a battery voltage meter. It was reading in the 11.0 - 11.6 volt range. Is this too low - just wondering if the alternator was not supplying a sufficient charge. Not sure how accurate these are. The battery was changed around a year ago so I'm sure it's not the battery. I am assuming starter or alternator.
Yesterday, my wife said she tried to turn the fan control knob from 2 to 3, but there was some resistance. She turned it off, and when she tried to turn it back on, nothing happened. The fan control knob turns as it should, but no fan is blowing, and therefore, no AC. Also, we noticed after dark that the lights inside the HVAC control unit had also died. I was thinking fuse, but checked all fuses related to HVAC and dash lighting and they were all OK.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Passat has a musty smell coming from the HVAC system that just won't go away. Have resealed pollen filter and had airsept treatment (this worked for a while, but now the smell is worse than ever). Two dealers have tried (and failed) to fix this. It's so bad I can't take passengers in the car.
View 5 RepliesSo now that it is winter, I have started to use the heater in the car. It works fine for about 10 minutes until a loud high pitched noise starts. Sounds like something is grinding. Any clue what it is? Is so, how to fix it?
View 2 RepliesOur gen 1 has developed a (currently minor) noise issue when braking. I'd like to sort it out before it becomes serious.
The brakes are still strong, and the regenerative system appears to be working. When the brakes are applied (even gently) there is a pulsing raspy sound, seems like it is coming from the front, driver's side. It is more rapid at higher speeds, and louder during rapid deceleration. I guess I'd call it 'grinding', although this is much less unpleasant than the classic 'grinding brakes' I've heard on other cars.
In any other car I would figure a warped rotor or worn out brake pad. But I had imagined that the regenerative system handled light braking, and conventional brakes took over beyond a certain threshold. Now I'm hoping they work in tandem, even on gentle braking and this is just a boring, simple pad issue.
This is a lengthy explanation. Car has 135K on it currently. Had the transmission flushed and water pump replaced about 5K miles or so ago. The Lexus trio of lights came on about 2K miles later and I noticed a loss of power. It's like I'm cruising along and the sensation is that of a manual transmission car being in 5th gear at 20 and punching it; that lack of power that borders on the car dying but it never does. It just sputters along a little and then all is fine. No abrupt shifts, just like it's in too high of a gear and I've caught it off guard with my throttle request.
Had the codes checked, multiple misfires detected. Great, so I take it to the mechanic I use and they hooked it up to the computer and basically I need a tuneup, all the plugs and wires and boots need to be replaced. I don't know how many horsepower I was down but it was definitely noticeable and the idle would bounce between 750 and 1K RPM without fail. I couldn't leave it with them all day that day as I had a job a couple hours away and figured it had been fine up to then and it would be ok for four more hours. Wrong. About an hour into my trip, the check engine light, which was on, began blinking, which I was told by the mechanic is a bad sign and that something is seriously wrong. Power is way down, the engine is obviously suffering, it's rough and choppy, probably half power, couldn't go more than 30mph.
And it was accompanied by this pulsing noise in the rear of the car, beneath the rear seat If I had to guess a location. It wasn't a grinding noise, more whiney but not loud and it was in a constant rhythm. I pulled over immediately and tried to make arrangements for transportation. There wasn't a rental car place in the town I pulled over in, but there was a place the next town up. I get in the car and start it up and the trio of lights are still on but the check engine is not blinking and the pulsing is gone as is the car struggling to breathe. It's not great, but it's back to the way it was before and highway speeds are possible, etc. When I got back, I had the tune up and the catalytic converter and engine manifold gaskets replaced. It runs like a dream. My question is; what could make it run so terribly and cause that pulsing sound and vibration, that would somehow disappear by stopping and starting the car?
Car went in to the dealer to have headlamp replaced. Tonight I noticed that the HVAC Control Illumination wasn't working. Could they have possibly shorted something out? Tomorrow I'll check fuse box.
View 4 RepliesI have an 02 Blazer w/ 110K miles. It's the 4.3L with 4WD. When I start it in the morning it usually has a low pulsing whirring sound for up to 30 seconds. It then goes away until the car is parked for a long time again, say overnight. It's a low volume sound, a lot like the sound of off road tires running down the highway. This has been going on for several months now.
All systems work fine. The alternator is new, the water pump has about 29K on it, and the top idler pulley has been replaced. Turning the A/C on or off makes no difference. The sound is loudest when you stand in front of the passenger side headlight which made me suspect and swap the alternator.
Could it be the belt? It was replaced with the WP and the ribs are not smooth inside. They are notched. I assume that's to improve the flexibility of the belt. If I take it to a shop they'll get 30 seconds each morning to diagnose it.
My 2006 AWD RX330 rotors were starting to get warped so I changed them out along with new pads. I put new rotors in the front and new pads all around. Everything went smoothly other than getting the bottom rear slider pins to go back in easily.
Well it's been a week now and I noticed that if I press on the brakes at low speeds say 20-30 mph with a decent amount of pressure nothing too crazy there is a rubbing/pulsing noise right before i stop completely. It doesn't happen right when I apply the brake but right before the stop. It kind of sounds like the ABS is kicking in but i don't feel it in the pedal like you do for ABS or I don't hear the electrical noise you hear from ABS.
My 08 B6 wagon has a very foul odor emanating from the HVAC system. It started after my wife washed the windshield with vinegar to get rid of some scaling from the bizarre water we have here. She thought the smell was from some of the vinegar running off the windshield. Well, that was several months ago and the smell is no better. Just recently, the temps have been down enough to turn off the AC switch and the smell is even worse.
View 4 Replies2014 TDI Passat with 66k miles. No unusual problems until this point. Three days ago I began to notice a strong ammonia odor coming through the ac vents. Its become significantly worse over the last 24 hours. The vaporized ammonia is sufficiently concentrated to cause eye and nasal irritation. It occurs rapidly, within 30 seconds of turning on the recirc mode. Turning off the recirc mode can clear the cabin quite fast as well. There is no odor or leak perceptible in the engine compartment, under the car, or in the trunk space.
No check engine warning or alarm that there is a problem with the DEF system. DEF fluid container was last topped off about 5k miles ago. Clearly, this is a significant failure of the emission system. I've done a cursory search but have not seen this exact problem written up before. Wondering why a car would be designed with the HVAC close to the to the exhaust/emissions system that it could capture gasses intended for the exhaust system? Its not so much the ammonia I/m worried about as the odorless and toxic Nox gasses the emission system should be reducing. getting dropped off at the dealer tomorrow.
I know this has been covered many times before but I know how to remedy the problem. My question is that I have an 09 which is still under warranty, is replacing the cabin filter/charcoal filter due to bacterial odor covered under my bumper to bumper warranty? I found some posts where people said it was but I want to double check before i waste time that I don't have with the dealer since I've been really busy with school.
View 10 RepliesThis noise has been posted several times recently and I have also experienced similar sounds. Whining in the drivers side dash area. Dealer states that it is fuel pump and that it is normal. Well, it has been a lot colder here in the last week and the noise has become louder, a couple of times to the point that it was hard to carry on a conversation with someone in the vehicle.
So I started investigating and found that if I turned the HVAC fan all the way OFF, which turns the system off, then the noise is gone. So my noise has to be associated with the HVAC. Complaining of this same noise coming from the drivers side dash? Also found same noise when I would use the REST.
2014 Subaru Crosstrek XV CPO purchased December 2015.
Last month I slid out on a heavy snow day (no snow tires, I know!) on a left turn and the front passenger wheel struck the curb forcefully enough for the wheel to be angled outwards about 15-20 degrees when steering wheel was straight. Lower control arm was wrecked, had it replaced and alignment done by the local subaru pro. He noted that the caster was now 0.5 degree off, which he noted to be "within specifications". He said it's not a big deal, but if I wanted it fixed, I could have the frame pulled at a frame shop to correct.
I'm just happy to be driving my rig again, but I notice a somewhat low-pitch, pulsating, vibration-like noise whenever I make a left turn at a certain angle. It seems to resonate when I hit a "sweet spot" of speed/turn.
I made a video : [URL] ....