Passat (B6) :: Proper Sequence To Rotate Stock Wheels / Tires?
Aug 25, 2010
What is the proper sequence to rotate the stock wheels/tires? Is it front to back only on the same side or does it need to be crossed front to back?
View 6 RepliesWhat is the proper sequence to rotate the stock wheels/tires? Is it front to back only on the same side or does it need to be crossed front to back?
View 6 RepliesWhat is the proper way to rotate the tires on the GX and how frequent should be done?
View 14 RepliesSo i need to rotate my tires and i want to know if there a special way to rotate them and if i need to reset the TPM system so the computer know where each tire is? Usually I just switch back to front or, move the driver rear to the front, driver front to passenger rear, passenger rear to front and pass. front to driver rear.
View 14 RepliesJust got a set of staggered wheels (first set) they are 19x8.5 and 19x9.5. Just wondering if you actually rotate the wheels or how you go about doing that?
View 13 RepliesEven after replacing the brake pads, I hear a scraping or grinding sound as the wheels rotate, one scrape/grind per rotation. It's particularly noticeable when I turn left, but the sound seems to disappear when I turn right. The mechanic said he doesn't hear it, but I think that's because he must have driven it on a gravel road. What else could be causing this noise? I worry that I'm making the problem worse by continuing to drive it.
View 5 RepliesCar is a 2000 Corolla CE with 4-spd auto. Is it possible to rotate one side of the front tire while the car is jacked up? How about if it is in neutral with the parking brake on?
View 5 Replies2007 Passat wagon with TPMS. Getting new sensors and a set of winter tires and wheels.
Can I ad the new sensors the my Passat using a VagCom or some other method?
I have a new car now, 2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G, got it at 88k and it now has 167k. Nearly no problems other than routine maintenance, but here I am with an issue I can't seem to figure out.
A few weeks ago, I blew a tire on the highway, ended up getting 2 new tires put on the front and moved the fronts to the back. Tires were then rebalanced and the alignment straightened out.
The guys at the shop said the front tie end rod needed replaced, but I'm pretty sure they were trying to make extra money off a new customer because my bill was going from tires/alignment to tires/alignment, bearings, tie end rods, and speed sensors.
Now, on to my issue. When I'm driving on the interstate, I notice a humming sound that seems to come from the front passenger wheel between 68-80mph. Soon as I go over 80 or under 68, it's gone. I noticed that the noise lessened when I veered to the right, so I assumed it was the bearing.
Took the car to my usual shop, had the bearings checked, got the front driver bearing replaced under warranty. Mechanic said the passenger bearing seemed fine. Got it on the highway again today, noise is still there.
3.8SuperPacer
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G with Ram Air
1998 Grand Prix GTP 40th Anniversary Daytona 500 Pace Car Edition
Just bought a 2001 v10 ford excursion limited with 127xxx miles. I have a few questions.
1. I can't get the front tires to rotate while parked and stepping on the brakes. I thought it was caused by the 35 inch BFG goodrich all terrian tires and a lift kit i dont know how tall but apparently i'm just a sucker. From the searches i did, i think the problem is that either the power steering or brakes doesn't have sufficient pressure to power both at the same time. what is the fix to this?
2. I found metal shaving in the rear differential. For lack of picture, the best i can describe it is that it looks like shaving off an ice block. Also, the fluid is gray and consistency of sludge. I searched and some said the shaving is normal and others said fix now. Which is it? I assume that the rear differential fluid needs to be changed.
On my MKVI the tire pressure monitor warning light would go off once the tires were inflated to the proper pressure. Does the MKVII do that or do you need to reset the system after every warning?
View 1 RepliesSo my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
This is the second wheel that I'm replacing due to a crack in the wheel itself (where it meets the tire). Roads aren't the best, but with mostly highway driving and taking care not to hit any potholes, I'm surprised that the wheel cracked. Had to replace the wheel due to cracking? and by any chance, is it covered under CPO?
View 5 RepliesSo I think I've decided to look for coilovers, rather than upgraded wheels this year. Which means I need to throw some NT05s on the stock R wheels. Obv the stock width is 225/40R18. How wide can I go before it rubs? I'm certain I can't do 245, is 235 an option? The car will go on the track, so trying to find some contact surface.
View 9 RepliesI have a misfire on cyl 3, what is the firing sequence, changed plugs which didn't solve problem... so I'm going to try coil pack.
View 8 RepliesI bought and installed stock g37 wheels today and I get vibration at around 50mph+ ! Could this mean i need hub ring adapters?? I believe the offset is 45 on the new rims. They are 18s.
View 3 RepliesI am experiencing some noise coming from tires or wheels or both. I had a pair of nexen n3000 that lasted about 30,000 miles.
Last week I replaced them with Hankook Verus V12 255 45 18 that seemed to be a high rated tire by multiple sources. After I had them put on and road force balaced, It seemed like the right rear or passenger tire were making a noise that became pretty loud at 45 miles an hour thru to about 60 and then started to quiet down a little.
I then needed to replace the control arms on the front tires(front and rear; btw I have a great place that will get the parts very cheap if you need the control arms) So I had them replaced, and had the car aligned.
After all of that, I drove the car about 100 miles and it still was making noise. The dealership said the noise wasn't the wheel bearings, and that it was probably the high performance tire I had on it.
So I went to discount tire and they replaced them for me with Continental Extreme contact DWS tires that are rates much better and everyone that has reviewed them says they are quiet and have a good tread wear life.
But I just drove 5 miles on them, and they have the same problem. So either it is a coincidence the both sets of tires are bad. (which is unlikely)
Or: Wheel bearings are worn? Pressure isn't right(i have 38 on the front 35 on the rear)? Or another component I'm not accounting for.
Just purchased and installed a set of Chinese HID and LED DRL headlamps. What's the proper way to align the low beams? Feels like too much light hits the road right now. Also, any way to adjust the "step" in the beam pattern. ___/---- My other vehicle has factory HIDs, and the step is hardly noticeable - looks more like this: ----/---- .
View 24 RepliesI bought a 2007 Saturn ION Coupe the end of December 2006. I have had the car 4 mos and keep experiencing a wobbling when driving between 4-10 mph (traffic). They have balanced and aligned my car 4 times since I bought the car, once a month (it needs service every month I commute 1,000 mile a week). It seems to work for a short while and then the problem continues. They have checked everything, rotors, wheels, tires, etc.
View 9 RepliesI think I need to have them done some where else. but around 65-70mph my wheels shakes. even after alignment!!!
View 3 RepliesI took my car to my usual trusty mechanic. Trusty asked where I had had the last rotation done. All the lug nuts were overtightened. The manual says to tighten to 96 pound-feet (that’s a measure of torque).All the nuts were tightened well past this. Many came loose at 200 foot-pounds. More at 300 foot-pounds (that’s as high as they wanted to go with their pneumatic torque wrench). There were still 5 nuts that didn’t budge. They brought out the manual torque wrench and muscled 4 of those loose. But one on the left rear wheel wouldn’t come loose.
So they made it a 3-wheel rotation, and left the left-rear wheel in place. I had a puncture driving over a piece of road junk last spring out of state and had to buy a new tire. Clearly the people at Roadside Tire had no clue (although why they messed with the other three wheels is a mystery. But although the left rear is the newest tire, i still don't want to have to trade the car in when the tire is worn! Nor do I want to trash out the rest of the assembly. What to do?
Here is an image of how to properly remove the engine cover.
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