Passat (B6) :: Power Gone Out At High RPM With APR?
Feb 8, 2012
I have a 100% bone stock passat, except for APR stage 1 tune at 91 octane.
I was giving it some nut today racing a volvo, and i noticed at around 5500rpm, the rpm gauge stopped climbing so fast, and it felt like most of my power was gone, the earliest this happened was 5000rpm and I had some gears where it didn't seem to happen at all.
Like I said, bone stock, less that APR stage 1 91 octane, and an aftermarket head unit XD but if that caused any problems with my motor.
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My wife was driving our 08 B6 yesterday and suddenly had a loss of power. Check engine light was on. Took it to the dealer and we heard back today that the high pressure fuel pump had gone out. I had heard of the TDI's having this problem and I know BMW had to do a recall on the same issue. I didn't know that the 2.0 TSI had this problem.
I'm a little bit concerned 'cause we leased the car for 3 years and didn't have a single problem. I thought it was very solid so we decided to buy the car last month Now my confidence in the car is a little bit rattled.
The car is under warranty. I just hope that this is not the kind of thing that's going to go out every 20K miles! Out of warranty, this repair would have been costly.
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How do you get the line back on to the rack? There is absolutely no room and I have experimented with a variety of tools with no luck. What's the trick?
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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My high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
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I just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
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2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
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Pulled our 5th Wheel up to a campsite we like in the Eastern Sierra, have pulled this trailer there several times before. This trip it felt way down on power and the EGT's were getting up there, I saw 1320 and it would have gone higher if I hadn't backed out of it. It had good boost 24psi averaged 17 to 20 on the steep long pulls. We came home today without the trailer and it ran just fine except once when I really nailed it the emission system light came on and stayed on solid till I turned the key off and on. What is the Emission System light telling me? It ran just fine when the light was on and all indications on the Scangage were good as well a on the Boost, Egt and fuel pressure gauge.
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I have a 97' Passat 1.8T B5 AEB engine.(125k km)
3 days ago I was doing a track day and when the car was at 200km(less than 7000RPM) the EGT shows 930c at fifth gear.this is strange because 900c is the max to be on the safe side so I can't pass 200km even the car can go to 250km easy.
Today I notice that the EGT is 930c at 180km fifth gear,930c at 140km 3rd gear(!)
I must say that month ago I didn't have this issue, i ran 4th gear to 200km 7500RPM and EGT shows less than 900c, it was 880-890c
when driving 100-100km it shows 600-700c.
My setup:
GT28RS
FMC
440CC injectors
Big fuel pump
HKS BOV
Manual boost control (3 pipes)
2.75" from downpipe all the way
chip for GT28RS
Clutch Masters stage 3
The manual boost control set to 1.4 BAR
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Do the dsg Transsmissions have something built in, when you go down hill the rpm shoots at 3k'ish rpm. It's like when you down shift if you were driving stick. Soon as I went flat road went back to normal. Is this normal??
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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My girlfriends B6's blower fan as of tonight only has the speed of 4 (max speed). What to do to fix it etc...?
Here is a pic of the car......
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My gf's 2005 passat is not blowing any hot air out when the heater is set on high. yes, she did turn it on and yes she does know how to work the climatronic. I've noticed over the last couple of months that the passat was not blowing really hot air out like it use 2.
now it's just blowing cold air.
what would cause this?
I am assuming and HOPING that its just an air bubble in the coolant system.
IF not maybe the heater core is going bad or clogged? is there a way to fix this?
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I just had my car coded for aftermarket HIDs and i have no high beams and a bulb out indicator on. did i miss a step in the VAG coding or will the high beams work when i put the HIDs in?
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I have a b6 Passat and the high beams are not working. I am going to be installing HIDS in the next week or so so I located a vag com disabled the drls and enabled Xenon without the shutter. now no high beams. they will only work with the car off and pull back the switch instead of pushing it forward.. I'm sure there are ppl on here with HIDs and there high beams working on a b6.
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I have an MY10 R36 wagon, and just looking to upgrade the High Beam only for night time driving.
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I installed an aftermarket HID's on my 06 B6 2.0T, used VAG-COM to disabled DRL's. They work great no issue, expect when I use my high beam.....both HID's go out and I get warning light/message on the dash. I can get them to come back on by turning the lights off and back on.
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So today after I got done working for 9 hours today, I start my car and immediately I hear my auxiliary fan running on high as if I had the AC running. Unfortunately the car was still cold when it started and being that it was in the high 50s when I left work, I had no need to turn the AC on. Why the fan is running on high even when the car is cold. I am wondering if it could be the auxiliary fan switch. And if it is, where exactly is it located.
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My regular beam light stopped working today. If i pull back on the high beams, both come on and work, however, if i push the lever forward to leave them on permanently, they don't come on at all. Is this because the regular bulb is out, or is something else wrong?
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This is weird. SOmetimes my gas gauge fluctuates from low to high. I don't know how to explain it but it just bothers me thinking there might be a problem I'm not aware of. This also shows LCD display saying 190km left then after I start driving for a while it'll show 210km. [IMG] [URL] ....
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My right sided high beam stopped working and my dash "bulb" warning light is on. Low beams working normally and still swivel around on startup and when turning. Is there actually a separate bulb for the high beams? I ask because when you flick on the high beams I hear mechanical movement inside the headlight housing, making me think high beams may be just a redirecting of the light. Having computer issues so haven't tried VAGcom yet. Also haven't checked fuses...
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