Passat (B6) :: Power Drops At 2100 RPM / No Errors When Reading The Chip
Aug 17, 2007
Got my brand new passat one month now: it's a 1.9 TDI, 105hp saloon. From day one I have been noticing power drops right at 2100 rpm, but not very frequently. The power drop is very very short in time, but strong (you can feel your head going forward goes you don't expect this). Today at 4000km (2485 miles), the power drops happen more frequently. Yesterday I had it 4 times in 125 miles.
- They're always right at 2100rpm, never lower, never higher.
- In any gear (had the problem in 2, 3, 4 and 5th gear).
- Always when keeping round the same speed, I never had a power drop when accelerating.
Problem is that I can not reproduce the problem myself, it sometimes just happens. The vw dealer doesn't find any issues when reading the cpu and doesn't notice it when test driving (test drives are to short).
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I am considering chipping my 1.8T ATW 2000 Passat and was wondering if there is any downside on chipping the engine. like reducing the life of the engine or the turbo or less MPG,
Which company should I go for the best quality and if you wanna share a "best practice" prior and post chipping
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My f350 has 300k on it. 95% of its driving is on trips of 22 miles or more at highway speeds. Occasionally long trips (going to put on 3k miles in 8 days here soon)
Want to drive the truck to 500k miles...but wondering if a tune or a chip would change the mpgs and not hurt reliability? I know its not a Honda Civic...I am not looking for 35mpg....would love to pick up a couple more than I have.
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Title says it, I just installed my Hydra Chip, now my edge says it cant communicate with PCM. I have checked all the connections on the edge, all is good. I planned on just using the Edge only for gauges. Will it not work anymore now that I have a Hydra? If not I will just sell it and buy an Edge Insight, so long as that will work.
I think its the Edge EVO 2, its this one.
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I have an 2002 7.3 powerstroke. It has a super chips installed, set on heavy tow mode. When throttle is on the foot and I start up a hill check engine light comes on. Code is for icp fault or uncontrollable. Also happens on cruise but more often on the foot. Have to reset to get check engine light off. Light stays off til I go to pull a hill again. I am also pulling a horse trailer with 1-4 horses. Could the programmer be causing this?
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So the idea has been kicked around before, but to my knowledge no one yet has done it on FTE. That is, a lighted display switch for our chips that only lights up the current position. Well, I've got it done!!
First some pics, then read below for how I did it. First pics are in the light, the next two are how it looks in positions 1 & 5 at night.
Now, for how I did it. First off, I started with one of the lighted displays from BCPD. Each number has an individual LED behind it, so I could wire up each one for the position it's in.
The back of all the chips have 7 wires attached to it. One is black, it's in the middle, and it is a common ground to the chip. The other 6 wires are all position grounds. The switch works by grounding one wire to the black wire for the position you are in. If you look at where the wires plug into the chips, the one farthest away from the black is position #1, and they count up sequentially from there toward the black wire.
First thing is to unplug the the selector **** cord from the chip before doing any work. I acutally ordered a spare switch from Jody, just in case I screwed up something (which I didn't), I wouldn't be without my chip.
I took the black rubber off the back of the switch to access the soldered connections. I soldered the ground for each LED on the display to the appropriate pole with the wire connected to it on the back of the display. I had some CAT 5 ethernet cable lying around, and I used the wires inside of it for the ground from the switch to the display. You can use a DVM or continuity tester to check for continuity between the black wire and each position to veryify which wire belongs to what position. I ran the extra wires out the bottom of the rubber cover, along with the original wires.
For power, I only wanted the lights to be on at night. So, I tapped into the wire for the gauge lights, put a 1 amp inline fuse (old glass type fuse), and connected all the hot wires of the LED's so they are a common hot. The LEDs already had resistors wired into them, so I didn't need to add any more.
The fit for everything where I put it was a little tight, but I eventually got it to fit, as you can see. And all the lights do work, and show up quite well at night. The display works by having a common hot to all LED's and grounding the one that for the position it's in, completing the circuit and lighting the LED.
Some other ideas would be to wire up 6 different colored LED's to constant power and place them somewhere else, say in the A-Pillar, dash, or on the door to the inside of the mirror. So, you'd have a different color LED for each position. It's not limited to using the BCPD display, that's just what I already had. The creativity is up to you on how you'd choose to light things up for each position.
Finally, I did talk to Jody about doing this and any negative effects it would have on the chip. He said there would be none, since you're just pulling a ground from it. Also, if you use an LED, they are by design only allowing current to flow in one direction, since they are diode's already. But, to be on the safe side, I used the 1 amp fuse on the power wire. You won't need any bigger than that as the LED's don't draw very much power at all.
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Well I went to have a guy at work scan my truck to see why my o/d light is flashing His scanner wouldn't connect so I unhooked my ts chip still wouldn't after that Now with the chip unplugged. I can't start with it on I can't start...
My cel is on and my theft light just blinks. My wait to start never comes on but my glow plugs do start up and warm up. All I have is cranking but that's it?
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Ok so the saga is continuing, not sure if its because enigma hates this mod or if I shorted something out when I was cutting the wires and mistakenly touched the ends together (protected terminal ends) some how or the monitor piece is just old and the fact that it has been my previous truck and this truck for a total combined 8+ years causing this conundrum....anyways the gauge seems to work (yay?) but it looks to read only "8"DC V?? but I know the power port (in dash) works as expected....so I am a bit lost here....one of the digits does look to be faded out as if the device perhaps is going bad and needs replacement....
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.
Is my thinking correct and/or is there another way to check? Have never been able to find a shop that has calibration equipment so I just resort to this method.
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I recently purchased a 1997 Rav4 (3F-SE Engine) with 162000 miles. Overall, it is a great car. The only problem (besides a clutch, which can wait) is that it hesitates/bucks between 1500-2100 rpm while accelerating. This happens usually on a shift change from 1st to 2nd, or while in 2nd and after decelerating to make a turn. This only happens after the engine has warmed up, i.e. the temp gauge is above 25%. When cold, there is no hesitation at all. It just passed emissions testing. Check engine light is off. I recently replaced the TPS (and adjusted it properly), with no change in symptoms. This car does not have a MAF sensor.
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I purchased a temp sensor to replace the old but for the life of me I can seem to locate it. I know it's in the back or rear of the engine somewhere.
BTW, the car has the 1.8 engine.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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