I am the owner of a PASSAT 2.0 Tfsi (2007 year) . Few days ago the pipe from the air condition froze suddenly.
After a few minutes the ice melt down and the air condition was ok again!
I am proud that my leather still looks factory, there aren't wrinkles, creases or scuffs in it. How to keep it looking this way when the car gets up there in age?
View 11 Replies2006 Passat 2.0t. With the engine cold, the a/c will blow warm until the engine gets up to operating temp and the rad fan kicks on. After that, it will stay on and blow cold all day. I would think the rad fan should kick on as soon as I turn on the a/c to get air flow moving across the condenser as in every other car I have ever owned.
Does rad fan kick on as soon as you turn on the a/c? I'm thinking that i might have a problem with a relay that suppose to kick the rad fan on. I used my VAG.com software and its showing no faults.
I got this "Failed MAF" along w/this "circuit condition or idle speed is higher/lower than expected" codes when I hooked up my car, what does this mean????
View 3 Repliescar has 63k on her, bought it and end up having the fuel lines replaced b/c of a faulty line. they checked the whole fuel system ect...now its going through coolant, never over heats, nothing is wrong else where...just going through coolant and having some whitish smoke out of the tail pipes. 2006 2.0t
View 1 RepliesOver the past 2 years have had oil burning from tail pipe after idling for a while. Now has gotten very bad. 98 Passat with 1.8t, no mods. Was told that turbo is bad and to make sure I should disconnect inter cooler pipe and see if oil is in pipe. Sure enough there was some oil that came out of the inter cooler. If it is just the turbo I need to buy a larger one and exhaust.
View 1 RepliesI tried starting up the Ex last night and it would not stay running unless I pressed on the gas and once I let go of the gas it would die. It had been pretty cold in Austin the last few days and I hadn't driven the Ex since Sunday.
So today I went to start it just now after it warmed up pretty good and the sun has been out. It would not start on key crank alone, I had to hit the gas but once I hit the gas it would stay running so I left it running for a few minutes then turned it off then waited a few minutes and turned it back on with the key alone and now it starts without needing to press the gas!
Is this just a product of the cold weather, was the IAC Valve froze stuck? Is that something I'd never have to worry about in the summer?
Should I clean the IAC? If so what cleaner recommended? Should I replace it? Will happen again after a cleaning?
I was super bummed when it would not start last night but I'm glad it's running again! I'm sure towing this beast would be expensive if I got stranded somewhere else but home.
In my searching for this problem I found a guy with a different car who said he had to keep both feet on the gas and brake (which was dangerous he said) but was the only way to get it home without paying for a tow truck.
I have a ton of white smoke coming from my exhaust pipe only after it ran a long time then is started back up ????
View 7 RepliesI have a B6 passat --- left the cat alone which comes off the turbo but cut out the "mid muffler" or scrubber right before the sensor and prior to the mufflers.
Noticed no turbo lag --- car seems fast and much smoother across the power band BUT doesn't give me that kick anymore. Must I flash the computer as well?
My engineering friend said that since the air flow is now faster than the engine runs hotter and ill prob stress the engine and burn out my cat much quicker... comments!?
Also do I need to put in a diverter pipe to satisfy the sensor --- so far no check engine but I dread the day...
I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Passat with the 2.8L engine. The flexible pipe which is part of the catalytic converter is leaking and the only way to replace it is to replace the catalytic converter. VW refused to assist with the repairs because the car has 96000 mi on it. Emission warranty is 8/80000. How I can replace only the flexible pipe without the cat. because it's still good.
View 3 RepliesSo the flexpipe on my exhaust is cracked and completely broken, so my passat sounds like a Mack truck. I've been looking into getting it fixed and I've been told i need to buy an entire new down pipe. Should i attempt to just get it fixed or buy a new down pipe.
View 4 RepliesCouple days ago it's -24C and I jump in car and head off to hardware store. Shop for 30 min and return and start the car. Starts ok but I notice that I have all sorts of warning lights on dash (ABS, Airbag, Parking Brake) and no power to my center console ie radio, climate stuff, fan etc. Also I can't move the shifter from Park.
Car's running so I dig out the manual to check the warning lights info and look at the fuse diagram cause maybe it's a blown fuse. Anyway 3-4 min after this, the power starts coming back to my center console, I hear the radio, then the fan then everything seems back to normal, except i still have dash warning lights and no shift action out of Park.
A few minutes later my dash warning lights start to go out, one at a time until only the ABS light is on. And my shifter now works. I wait a few minutes, make sure I have brakes, and drive home. Start it a few hours later and all is normal. And has been since.
A few days previous to that, in -27C weather my brakes froze and I had to do some serious pumping to get them to unfreeze. Maybe the two event are related.
I can hear a drone at freeway speeds coming from the engine compartment of my 99 Passat 1.8. I don't know whether this is normal, but it seems like the down pipe has a resonance/vibration. How to reduce this? Test pipe? Header wrap? Or is there something wrong that I have this buzzing?
View 3 RepliesThe car just hit 114 xxx. Happens to be tye coldest day of the year so far. Started car runs fine no cel but white smoke is pouring out the tail pipe. Gets worse when accelerating...
View 8 RepliesLast year, around Jan/Feb, our temperatures dropped down to about -30F, and I had a weird issue where my brakes literally froze. I couldn't push them at all. I let the car sit for a few minutes, and started slowly pumping the brakes, and eventually got them freed up.
A few months later, the brake line going to the rear popped. I eventually got it replaced. Then a few months later, the front brakes started scraping and squealing, and so I replaced the front pads and calipers about two weeks ago.
Now, the other day I was slowing down to make a turn, and my brakes completely went out. When they did, I heard a pop from up by the engine. I pulled over, lifted the hood, and there was brake fluid covering my hood, abs unit, and a small amount on the engine.
My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
I'm guessing that the washer nozzles on the rear wiper arm froze solid. When the washer was turned on the pressure build up made a hose fitting pop off. What I heard, then saw, was blue washer fluid pouring onto the cargo area rug.
I removed the ~3' plastic trim under the lift gate and the rearmost dome light. You can see the cutout over my pinky & ring fingers. I also removed the r/s trim panel, but think I could have left it in place.
Plugged it back together with some zip ties to strengthen all of the connections. So far, all good
Own a 2011 6.7 diesel, 59K mileage, short bed 4 WD. Was driving at 70 mph and noticed my instant mileage display read 0. Usually I see a instant mileage reading of at least 16. No regen was in progress. Steady gas throttle. Display could be changed to other screens. After a few minutes it came back. But it jumped to 16 and did not ramp up.
View 3 RepliesI am looking for info regarding motor swap. I blew the motor in my truck a couple weeks ago (5.4L Triton). She froze solid going down the HWY pulling my boat. I purchased a motor from a wrecking yard with~ 70k miles on it. I decided to do the swap myself and have run into a dilemma. In order to un-mate the trans from the motor the torque converter nuts need to be removed. There is an access port where you access the nuts one at a time. You must roll the engine over to bring each nut into view. This is where I am stuck. The motor is seized solid and will not turn over by hand even with a socket and a cheater bar on the main crank pulley. Do I need to remove the oil pan and/or the heads to figure out how it's stuck (pretty sure it ate a valve)?
View 1 RepliesWhile driving home from work today all my control functions stops working. All the steering wheel buttons, radio functions, and the center display screen all froze up. It wasn't until I restarted to car for everything to work again. What all that components have in common?
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