Passat (B6) :: PVC Hose Busting Due To Increased Boost
Aug 16, 2008
I am playing with the idea of having my 2006 2.0t chipped. A Stage 1 is all I want, but I am concerned about the PVC hose busting due to increased boost.
I heard that later 2.0t's have improved PVC hoses. Mine is an 2006, but it is a late 2006 (build date 03/06). When did the improved PVC hoses get installed on the 2.0t's?
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So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
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Today while driving I heard a pop and than my car got extremely loud with increased vibrations. The noise is not terribly loud at idle but extremely loud while accelerating. I also noticed at idle it seems that nothing is blowing out the exhaust tips
My question is, if the flex pipe is covered under the extended emissions warranty and if is not covered by the warranty would a catless dp fix my problem?
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Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
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I have a CEL. I don't have any special tools or experience but am not afraid to try something.
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How to remove clamp around hose? I am in process of changing out reservior tank. Ignore post. I got it, was afraid they were the one-time use only type of clamps. But duh, they are the spring clamps.
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How to identify this 'leaking' coolant hose? (cooler hose?), I took a picture with my cell ... It shows a stainless steel coolant line with calcified Dried/heater coolant residue on the outside, and I noticed it was leaking coolant (using a periscope mirror )...
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I think that it is coming from the hose that connects right to the reservoir. I have wiped it clean a few times and it always seems to be seeping from that area under the hose where it connects to the bung. I replaced the OE hose clamp with a new one and put some electrical tape around the hose but it still leaks. It does make a slight hissing sound from the area as well when I pop the hood after a long ride, but only lets off a few drips. My guess is that I may have to replace that entire hose but that looks involved as it is attached to several others.
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So i cant figure out how to remove the radiator side of the upper radiator hose. I pulled out the pin but i cant remove the hose.
Do I just pull it straight out? Or do I twist and pull? I dont want to break the connection.
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Im replacing my PCV valve (CEL) but im not sure if I should replace it or just the breather hose.
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I've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
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Ok so I accidentally broke the hose that connects the secondary air pump to the stock intake box and been looking around for a replacement. I have looked around and searched and searched and the only one I found is this one: [URL] .....
Will this work for a 2004 1.8T? I know it says that its for the 2000-01 but it looks exactly like the one that goes on mine. Haven't checked the dealer to see how much they want for it but it will most likely be an arm and a leg.
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I have 98 passat V6 and the lover radiator hose is leaking at the connector between radiator and the hose. Do I need to change the whole hose or is there maybe an o-ring that should be changed? How hard is to remove the hose? Do I have to go to the dealer?
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195,000 miles on a 1.8T I removed the intake hose that connects the inter cooler to the throttle body and noticed a bit of oil inside the hose. I was guessing it may have come from the turbo due to a leaky seal, but this is strictly a guess. The car doesn't consume too much oil (maybe a quart or less between changes). What is the life expectancy for a turbo?
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My wife hit a deer going 60MPH 3 hours from home. Go back up and pick up the car, it's down on power, I feel it surging on and off boost, hard to drive smooth. Roughly a half hour later I get a CEL. Don't have the code handy, but Boost limit Maximum exceeded. My local VW dealer says its a normal wear and tear item so Allstate will not cover it. The car had the radiator, radiator support, condenser, hood, bumper, grill, passenger fender, timing belt cover and timing belt replaced.
Allstate says not covered, like a flat tire, once I leave the shop, its like a flat tire on the road, nothing to do with the repair. BTW I had it repaired at an Allstate recommended PRO shop. I get it back tonight after 8 weeks of fooling around. Will need to check the actuator, hopefully it's bad. The turbo itself is good, boost fine, no smoke.
This is an 04 Passat 1.8T. I have had 14 cars with turbos, still have four and have never had a turbo go bad, full synthetic oil every 3K and 60 second cool down in hot weather.
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Is there any difference in boost between drive and manually shifting with a tiptronic? How about using sport mode?
I saw a video of a guy testing hist mkv with apr stage two and he reported that he was not getting full boost when manually shifting his dsg.
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Just got the car not to long ago and its not making any boost right now. the CEL is on and its throwing a code for a MAF sensor. what would be your first step to resolving this problem.
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I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
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I picked up a used 99 Passat with 79000 miles. I just changed the oil and found the pan pretty well sludged up - typical from what I read on the forum. I noticed the coolant looked pretty diluted - so I drained and filled with 50/50 mix. After starting I felt for the upper and lower hoses heating up and the lower one never did. I guess I should have tested this out before draining and refilling - also typical. Question is - is this a thermostat issue? My Haynes manual says if the top hose becomes hot the thermostat is operational. Heater has plenty of heat, temp gauge stays pegged at 190 degrees top dead center of the gauge.
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I have a 2003 volkswagen passat, front wheel drive with a 1.8t. I was told that I could get more boost out of my turbo without having to do any major modifications. Is it possible or not. Because as it stands right now I am completely lost when it comes to this.
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
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