I was bleeding my brakes today and when I took off the wheel on the driver side, I found grease on my rim. I can't believe that my outer cv boot is cracked for a car with less than 57K miles.
View 16 RepliesJust tore through my second driver side outer boot it's frustrating. I'm thinking about buying an axle but are the boots not going to rip on them. Thing is I don't really get why the are ripping since I'm not super low or anything I know people that are lower and haven't had any issues
I put this new OEM axle in just a couple months ago. Could my Coilover be sitting to low in the strut housing and rubbing on the boot or what. I don't know if that is the mechanical terms but I did my best but how would I go about fixing this.
When I was looking around for the axle last time and I tried to go through smaller shops but none of the axles they had matched up, so I had to go to the dealership and my wallet took a beating. This time thinking about the cv boot kit for urotuning.
While swapping on my winter tires yesterday, I noticed the strut boot (I believe it's called) on the passenger side has a large crack, almost split in two. See picture attached.
The Prius is a 2006 with almost 370K KM (~231K miles), and I am hoping to keep the car for another 1-2 years, until the PIP2 is out.
Is this something to be concerned about? The strut is not leaking, and the suspension seems otherwise fine.
A 2000 Toyota 4Runner was stopping fine. A mechanic informed me that the brake pads were worn down. After the pads were replaced and bled the pedal sinks lower than before and the car requires more pressure to stop. I can pump up the pedal after 3 pushes. I took it back and he has since re-bled the brakes but the pedal still sinks low.
View 15 RepliesIt is a 1994 Ranger XLT, Regular cab, two wheel drive, manual transmission and I think it has rear ABS. A front brake line blew which drain the master cylinder. Also a couple of pieces of brake line at the rear had to be replace along with the rear wheel cylinders. After installing the new brake system components we were trying to bleed the system. After reading the repair manual I had it said that vehicles with rear ABS you are to bleed the ABS module before bleeding the rest of the system. There is a module where the book described it (driver's side inside the frame rail) with brake line running to it. I am assuming this is the rear ABS module? I didn't see anything that looked like a bleeder on the module. Where to look? Also when I open the bleeders on the rear wheel cylinder no brake fluid came out.
View 14 Replies...Is there anything special that needs to be done for brake bleeding after putting in a new master cylinder? I decided today to flush my system with my vacuum bleeder and now my pedal slowly falls to the floor at a light...No problems in a panic stop or otherwise, just falls to the floor slowly when braking...no leaks, so I'm assuming a master cylinder is an order....
View 14 RepliesI just thought I'd mention this observed wear of brake pads...I just replaced all 4 up front after about 128k miles...
@ 114k miles it was observed that 1 of the 2 pads of each front wheel had worn significantly more than the other (the inner more than the outer pad IIRC)....my expert mechanic rotated the two and I got another 14k miles out of them...I could have gotten a LOT more had they been rotated @ 50-80k miles.
I don't know if this is extraordinary, or more typical than I'd have thought...or a function of (failing?) calipers, or just how these (MY) calipers work, or just my driving habits (though I've owned the car for only 30k of the 128k miles on the odometer)....but....
In my case the new pads will get a 50k mile inspection and possible rotation if there is uneven wear between outer and inner pads....
I'd recommend that pads be inspected for (uneven) wear at one of the scheduled tire rotations....rotating the pads isn't much of a job, but it might be something for you to consider to get the most miles from the pads (that and better braking too perhaps).
I've noticed my RR emergency brake cable's outer casing rubs hard against the RR shock, such that it's rubbed through the cables plactic covering & is going after the metal jacket.
It's a 99 4X2 4dr extra cab long wheel base.
Notice this on your Ranger, LWB model, or for that matter any wheel base Ranger???
I'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.
[URL].............
Happening to all 3 cars. All 2012
2- Passat Se 2.5L 60k/40k miles
1- Jetta TDI 65k miles
Shown driver rear rotor on Passat ( was cleaning Abs speed sensor ring)
Started about 35k miles on each car as a small ring creeping from the outer edge. Backside has maybe 1/4-1/2" clean braking surface.
Slide pins moove free and smooth
Pads were not seized
Caliper isnt seized
Notice the different ridges on the inner pad.
Obviously I want to replace the pads and rotors but before I do. I want to figure out the source for this disease so keep from prematurely replacing them in the future.
2008 Wagin .... Specifically, how do I remove the reflector plate that hides the bolt?
View 3 RepliesI have the regular Prius 2012, The brake pedal is attached to a rod that goes into a flex boot and then into the ABS module in the Engine compartment. The Boot is leaking sticky greasy/oily fluid. It not a constant leak. Its like it leaked on a Hot day and then stopped leaking.
Its not the one from my car, but its what I'm calling the ABS Mod Is this not just the lubricant for the Pedal or is this real brake fluid from the ABS module leaking into the Car? took it to Toyota and they said they had never seen this before and they are recommending to replace the entire ABS Module and Brake Fluid at a cost of $3346 + Tax. (roughly $2700 in parts)
So yesterday I come out of a store and hit the button on my remote and pull my handle and nothing.. I hit the button a few more times i and i hear it clicking but its not unlocking..
So I climb in and unlock it from the inside and start locking and unlocking it and finally it starts working again.. I get home car sits for a few hours and i head out to walmart door opens fine when I leave walmart it is fine.. this mourning taking my son to the sitters it was fine and leaving there to go to work it was fine..
At lunch at work it wouldn't open again no matter what i tried i couldn't get it to work.. i call the dealer and have an appointment in the AM for them to check it out..
On a side not one of my drivers side front speaker in the same door is cutting in and out and hisses every now and then..
I have a 2004 1.8T 4Motion (automatic) that blew a CV joint boot. After inspection of the other side, I decided to replace both (just the outer boots). Got the axles out without much trouble but now I cannot drive the joints from the axles. I've tried both and neither is cooperating, I've knocked out off them with a mallet but they aren't budging. Is there something to do besides just driving them off?
Axles are tubes (hollow) p/n's 8D0 407 271 (& 272) ED.
So I recently attempted to change the brakes on my 96 dodge dakota. I followed the instructions in my Chilton manual to do it. The driver side was no real problem and managed to get it done within an hour. Now knowing how to do it I moved to the passenger side. Once I slid the caliper off the rotor I noticed that the pads on this side were nothing but metal but the rotor was fine. I took out the pads but the piston was hyperextended and there was no way to compress it no matter what I did. The piston eventually just started to crack away. So I went to O'Reilly's and bought a refurbished caliper. It looked very similar and fit the bolts. However when I tried to attach the brake line it was at a different angle then its fitting. The brake line is a thin metal tube for the last 6 inches with a square piece of metal at the end where the hollow bolt goes through and then into the caliper. But because of the metal section I cant angle the brake line correctly to get a good seal.
View 6 RepliesI'm going to replace tie rods assembly. I have a question about inner tie rod boot. How do you attach it to the steering rack? No room there, horrible access.
View 1 RepliesHow hard to replace it? I found a minor leak from left crimp clamp, the grease leaks all around it. It looks not too bad, but the grease will leak all out later. I thought there is repair kit on ECS, It seems I can replace brake pad,rotor and cv boots joint in the same day.
View 17 RepliesWhile changing over to snow tires yesterday, I noticed the driver's side CV boot was split open with grease/oil everywhere.
Questions:
How urgent is this repair? Is the car drivable for a short while until I can get it fixed?
How much might I expect a CV boot replacement to cost?
Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to swap out the shift boot of my 2004 (B5.5) Passat 1.8T 4Motion and running into trouble. According to the instructions from the new Red Line shift boot, I should be able to separate the two collars that hold the boot to the knob. However, the white post that's part of the knob assembly has a piece that's bigger than the lower black collar, preventing it from being removed. Is there something I'm missing? How can I remove the boot without damaging the existing knob assembly?
View 7 RepliesHow to release the shift knob and boot from the transmission stalk on a B6 Passat automatic?
View 1 Replies