Passat (B6) :: Oil Is Seeping - Might Be Indicative Of A Boost Leak
Sep 26, 2013
I was underneath my car checking everything out before heading to h2o and I'm pretty sure I found a bad o-ring causing a slight boost leak. Oil is seeping through the connection between the flange for the TOP and the turbo itself (see picture). 99% of the time oil seepage between connections is indicative of a boost leak. So I go to the dealer to try to find a replacement o-ring but they told me that they cannot obtain the part and it isn't available anywhere and that they don't even have a part number for it.
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So i let my car cool down for a minute after i drive it and today while it was cooling it would like bog down but it wouldnt die. Ive seen it while at a stop sign or stop light. Only while it was cooling down. It is HOT here so could that be the problem?
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I have a friend with a 14.5 Camry that developed a transmission leak. He brings the car in to Toyota, they thought it was front pump seal. Turns out it was the case halves leaking. They are currently replacing torque converter, transmission, and trans cooler. All this at 26K.
Now is where it gets fun.. My girlfriend also has a 14.5 Camry 4 Cyl.. same car as listed above.
I go out to it, look under it and notice a " seeping " spot where I am assuming this problem has started.
She showed a technician at work ( she is a sales manager at a Toyota store) the picture. He said, looks like we have another one that needs a converter and possibly a transmission, I am assuming they will not know until it is out. her car has 25,500 miles on it.
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I am noticing that my spooling is getting louder and louder and I am suspecting a boost leak! I a m wondering if i do have one is it causing any damage? my guess would be running rich but id like to get another opinion! my boost used to peak at 11 and now since the noise is getting louder its only peaking at 9! im gonna do a boost leak test but in the mean time im not gonna drive it if its bad!
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So i have a '06 2.0t 6spdman passat. I started getting this high pitch sound (like a boost leak) when under hard acceleration from second gear and up. I went to the dealer today and they replaced my PCV system, and told me that was the noise i was hearing. Pulled out of the dealer like half a block and same thing happened. Then the tech went with me heard the noise, went back put it on a lift. And proceeded to just rev the engine. They say its my Intake system, yet I have had it on the car for 2 and a half years. Could it possibly be the DV???
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I have a 20th 1.8t. It was running fine last week but all of the sudden i was only getting about 4-5 psi. I have check all over vwvortex for somewhat of an answer. I have no C.E.L.. I have checked for vacuum leaks with nothing coming up. I tried to check for boost leaks but it comes out of the dipstick hole. I have undone and re-installed the pancake pipe. The DV is holding pressure.
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I have a leak between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. The golden clamp (c-clamp? v-clamp?) broke, and now there is a gap between the two. The dealership doesnt cover it under powertrain warranty (my car has passed regular warranty) but worst of all they do not sell the clamp on its own.
I posted a link to a picture below, it isn't my turbo.
[URL] .....
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Recenly, i feel like i haven't been hitting boost, so i went to get an oil change last week. I did the oil change, and everything seemed ok, I thought it might have been a slight boost leak. This morning i check my drive way to see a little oil on it. So i check the dip stick and the oil level is already at a minimum. Do you think i have a blown turbo due to the oil drop and lack of boost. It hasn't been a 100 mi since the oil change either.
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Ever since I got my car about 5/6 months ago I noticed it's not getting full boost. when I first got it the stock boost was getting about 5-7 I don't know if that's normal I've read they normally get more. eventually I got my car tuned and it's supposed to peak at 22 psi but it only got to about 13-14 psi. slowly it's been getting worse and my car is getting 2 psi. I've had lots of people tell me it's a vacuum leak. also the bov makes a flutter noise if that has anything to do with it. my intake doesn't make a sucking in noise like most do. The car has been randomly backfiring usually between gears. I just ordered a turbo inlet pipe a breather hose kit and a boost hose kit.
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02 GTI 1.8T ... Stage 2
Was running the car at about 4500 rpms in 5th gear. All of a sudden lost power and heard a loud whooshing/ hissing of air which sounded like it was coming from under the front passenger side of the car. Lost about 50% of power in all gears. What I screwed up and broke?
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2012 TDI ... OK so out of nowhere, my car is making loud turbo whoosh noise, while I love the way it sounds, it's not normal or intentional, so I don't like it lol. I have an AWE intake, and a gutted turbo resonance damper. Is been fine and same sound ever since those mods but now out of nowhere it is really loud with the whooshing of the turbo.
Small video of it... [URL] ....
Pictures of turbo area .....
Anything look wrong? I circled that one area but wouldn't know if that's normal or not....
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This was briefly discussed as part of another thread. It appears that I have a boost leak when I hit roughly 24.5 psi. The leak seems to stay for a few minutes after showing itself, but then I'm able to produce boosts up to 24.5 again. For example, on my 20-mile/30-minute drive to work, I can make this leak "appear" four or five times, maybe more if I try. Does this self-healing leak ring a bell? I haven't done a boost leak test yet, but I'm leaning towards the RTV sealant at the OEM plenums due to the self-healing attribute.
To add a little info to this thread, I recently installed an S&B intake, 4" exhaust, bellowed up-pipes, RR billet wheel, RR CAC intercooler boot kit with new clamps, RDP reinforcing plenum inserts, AIH delete plug, and I removed the wastegate solenoid along with the red and green tubes. I don't have any gauges, but I recently began monitoring the boost using FORScan. Before all of this, I don't think I was producing enough boost to cause this leak, and I had no way to monitor for this leak.
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I was driving the wifes 12 Tiguan SEL 4mo the other day and noticed that on accel it makes some odd noise, almost a tinny boost leak noise, it seems to accel just fine but at certain rpm's it makes this weird noise, its not a normal turbo boost noise i hear that as well. Maybe this noise is completely normal or maybe it isn't?
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So I just put billowed up pipes and changed the broken O ring in the turbo housing. Put everything back together and checked for a boost leak with the home made tester. Boots and everything ARE OK. I can hear air escaping from what seems to be the valve cover or intake. I realize that I am charging my crank case as well but it still concerns me that air is escaping from somewhere besides the CCV. I read the following forum and this guy had the same issue and after he found out he was charging his crank case he was no longer worried. . . . .
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I have noticed a leak coming from the hydro boost piston that goes through the fire wall on the drivers side of my F250 King Ranch 6.0L... Here's the question, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat.
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I've had a large leak from somewhere in my power steering/brake boost system (the whole reservoir gone in under a week) and I want to finally get to the bottom of it. Instead of paying a mechanic labor, I figured I'll look at it myself. So I got under it and I think that the leak is coming from the power steering gearbox, or a line that goes to it, but how to figure out which. How to diagnose this HydroBoost leak on my 6.4L? Here are some pictures ....
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I have a 08 camry 4 cyl LE (51,000 Miles). I went to oil change last week but dealer told me that water pump is seeping and recommend to replace.
I talked to local mechanic about this, he told me that 08 camry comes with bad water pump parts. My sister drive 08 tc her water pump was also leak, she replaced under powertrain warranty last year. But my warranty was over last year by age.
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I have a 2000 lexus rx300. the steering rack was replaced 2yrs/20k ago. now, there is very slight seeping of fluid. only noticeable on on the boot and never drips onto the floor. i took it back to the dealer and they said that is normal and after 2yrs it's in very good shape. i question why if the seals are working properly then should i see this?
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My 2006 Prius with 120k miles has coolant seeping around the water pump. I called around to get quotes on replacement cost, but one place said the thermostat should be replaced at the same time, while the other said it shouldn't. (BTW, I will have the belt replaced at the same time).
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I own a '99 Corolla with app. 121k miles. I brought my car to the dealer for a routine oil change. My "report card" indicated a red flag, i.e. there was oil seeping from the head gasket and from the oil pan gasket. The service advisor said that I should monitor it to see whether or not the seepage gets worse. He said that it didn't necessarily have to be fixed now.
Everything I've researched on head gaskets indicates that if there's a problem, a telltale sign would be leaking radiator fluid. I didn't see anything about leaking oil. As far as the oil pan gasket is concerned, I figure that it's a simple fix, and that I could do it myself, or save the aggravation and let the dealer handle it during my next service appointment.
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I've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
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