Passat (B6) :: Oil Cooler Have To Be Removed To Change Out Oil Pressure Switch?
Sep 28, 2013
Does the oil cooler have to be removed to change out the oil pressure switch? If not, any pix or how-to posted around? Done a Google but apart for Jetta 2.0L nothing seems to come up
Believe it's located on top of the oil filter bracket according to ETKA, but that doesn't show what components are around or on top of it
Am fitting a 42DD re-location unit so I can have the switch and a GlowShift oil pressure sender onto it. Car was on a lift yesterday but couldn't see a way to get at it
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My 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse will continue running when the key switch is shut off and the key is actually removed. This occurs intermittently and the dealer can not give me a cause for it!?
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So my fingers are way to fat to grab that little light bulb behinh the fan switch. How do I get that bulb out?
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So I went for an oil change today left the place and about twenty minutes later of highway driving dashboard lights and says 'stop! Oil pressure! Engine off!' I get off the highway turn it off check to make sure everything is tight get back in start it up start driving again. Light and everything comes back on and the car dies. Call up the place they come out and say that if its over full (which it was) it can cause this. The guy empties the oil and refills it leaving it a little low. Car still does the same thing! I have to bring it to their shop In the morning but if I could go in knowing a little something that'd be best. So the question is what did they do to my car?!
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My sister has 03 wagon GLX and her a/c just stopped working one day. It was a few months ago and I remember when it happened that I scanned w/ VAG-COM and it gave some sort of pressure switch code - can't remember if it was low or high, but at time she wasn't concerned w/ it ($$ was tight). Unfortunately, I saved info on my laptop and can't find the document now and the car isn't throwing the code any more (I tried turning a/c on several times).
It sounds like a pressure switch to me, but not sure what the part would be (or where it is located on car). Any tests I can perform to confirm this? Also, I see two listed on ECS and they're nothing alike
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Sometimes when I take the key out of the ignition, the wipers move up slightly. I notice the passenger's blade most as it parks a bit higher than the driver's blade, so when they move up the right one is more obvious. They don't move a full cycle, just up about an inch and stop.
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2000 PASSAT 1.8t. As u pull out the key out of the ignition key chamber, u should here a click sound. That I believe signals the car that the key has been pulled out of the ignition key chamber. Well I don't hear the click sound anymore when the key is pulled out of the ignition key chamber and as a result, the car thinks the key is still is the ignition chamber, alarm does not work, radio stays on after key is out, I have to manually lock and unlock car. I think the key chamber has a pin that did not set right when I pulled the key out. I think some thing is stuck . Tired spraying WD40 into the key chamber with no results.
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Just poking around under the hood of my new car. Removed the oil fill cap while the engine was running and it promptly sputtered and died. I've done that countless times on non-turbo engines to get a better listen to the valve train, and never had an engine die on me, including my B5.5 V6. Put the fill cap back on and it cranked right up and idled normally again. No CEL or other lights. Is that normal?
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I locked my 98 passat yesterday with the key , activated the alarm and the horn honked and the lights flashed, but the passenger side turn lights will not go off, I pulled the flasher out and dis connected it but the lights stay on, I am guessing I have a stuck relay in the security system, but where to start looking. the turn signals will not flash with the turn signal switch or the hazard button pushed in, only the drivers side turn signals will work. This is my 1st VW and I am lost.
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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Why on a 2016 Prius is there no toggle switch to change from miles to kilometers?
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How to replace the oil cooler on a W8 6 spd wagon. Dealer says $1K plus labor. Is it possible to do it with average wrench turning skills? Also, does Bentley cover the W8 in the normal Passat edition?
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Not sure whats going on here. Could this be normal and I've just never seen it? I dont see oil ANYWHERE else under there. Just in this 1 spot.
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I've got a 2000 passat 1.8t (ATW) Tiptronic with a GIAC chip a trubo smart bov and a new performance boost gauge. I've got a problem. My gauge habitually indicates me that i peek to around 15psi to after drop to around 11 but if i drive my car to hard for to long or i get to around 180kph, my boost decreases instantaneously to 5 psi. After, the only way to regain my boost is to let the car cool down on idle for 2min an then turn it off for 2min.
After that, every thing comes back to normal. If I don't do that, the car wont regain boost. You can drive like a grand-mother for 45 min and put your foot down you'll still see the boost go up to 5psi and just stop increasing. It's like it set itself an other max boost limit. I though it could be some sort of a safe mode because the turbo is over heating (it's red hot). I thought a oil cooler could maybe resolve the problem but i don't want to spend 200buck on that if it doesn't do anything.
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So I think my A/c high pressure switch went out/failed. I came out from a shop and I had just bought 2 new front tires and got them mounted 1 hour prior and I though that I had ran over something. I felt around the passenger tire but didn't find a anything-but there was a hissing noise behind the passenger tire and the air smelled a little funny. So when I got in the car and turned the a/c on nothing happened/No cold air and I had just used the A/c on the way over to the shop. So when I got home I pulled these codes:
00792.Air Conditioner pressure switch F129
01274.Motor for Air Recirculation flap V71
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2002 cheverlot impala . the oil pressure switch keeps going bad and the diaphragm bust and oil comes out where the plug is. had to replace four in over a year . why and what make them go bad ?
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How do I jump the low pressure freon switch on a 2003 ford escape? I'm putting freon in my 2003 escape, but the compressor won't keep running, so what do I do to keep the compressor running?
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Looking for the low pressure switch, (back towards fire wall, black cap on it passenger side) I think I found it, but when I hook up the AC pro that gauge doesn't register any psi, when I hooked up same AC pro to our Acura TL the gauge registered and I was a little down so I added some In.
So any tips on what's up? Wife's car blows cold air just wanted to see where it's at and if I need to check for leaks or just add some 134a ...
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New owner of a used 2002 Ranger XLT 4x4 (with 59k miles) here (and new to this forum). Having problems with the oil pressure gauge not registering on cold starts (though it registers after the engine warms up).
I know this is nothing more than an idiot light since the gauge isn't really a gauge (inasmuch as it registers in the normal range at 7 psi and stays there unless the pressure goes away).
I've read that this is likely due to the oil pressure switch not functioning properly. I'd like to know where this switch is located on a 4.0 L V6. Other than this, the engine functions normally (though it sucks the gas).
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have a 1991 4.0 5spd stx, and the A/C does not work. converted to r-134, and its full of freon. listen to this crap. no power at the low side pressure switch, or at the pump, tried to cross lowside but nothing happened, all the fuses are good and i have no flippin' clue whats wrong. must have stopped at about 5-6 different auto repair places and all the dumb poo intern whatchamacallits have no clue.
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How do you get to the oil pressure switch on a 1998 F150 4x4? I can see it over the top of the front axle but can't find any way to get my hand in to unplug the sensor wire. Do you have to unbolt and drop the axle down a couple of inches?
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