I think my oil pump bolt died today. Strange enough it happened when I was parking my car at work. I am sure it could be something else but its near the mileage that if it didn't happen early in its life it would happen around now. About 65k miles on my 07 3.6L 4MO
I have brand new 2011 2.5SE Jetta for loaner....
Our 2007 Passat 2.0T had the 30K service and the fuel pressure sensor and pressure regulating valve (PCV valve) recalls done several months ago. Several weeks ago the check engine light came on so we took it in to the dealer yesterday. By the way, the car also felt subtly sluggish, had a slightly unstable idle and sometimes seemed to "stick" in gear on deceleration (ie, not shift down normally).
Here are all the DTC codes that were stored:
P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P2187, P2279, P3138, 02635
The service adviser said the problem was that the recall valves that VW sent them were no good (I think he said it was the -F valve) and that they now have an updated valve.
The new part number is 06F-129-101-K
By the way, our Passat is driven "conservatively," ie, no high boost levels or anything else that would stress the PCV valve.
I have an 07 Prius which I bought used in 2011 and which has been fine (except for some A/C work last year) but got the 'triangle of death' this morning and having towed it to my regular shop, they tell me the code (they couldn't give me the number) simply said 'replace hybrid battery'... the car has 102,605 on the clock.
View 9 Replies07 Prius. So I get the triangle of death, car shuts down, and throws the A093 code indicating pump failure.
View 10 RepliesWhen it started I would reach 40 mph and if I hit the slightest bump the front end would start shaking BAD! I'd slow down to about 20 and it would go away. I replaced the tie rod and the steering damper and it seemed for about 2-3 days then it got worse. Saw more slop in tie rod ends and pitman arm and replaced them. Again, better for maybe a week and it started again only worse. By this time I would hit maybe a rock at 40 mph and it would go into death rattle mode again. By now it was so bad that cars coming towards me would pull off the road till I got slowed down.
View 4 RepliesI was driving our '11 Sonata Limited 2.4 today with wife and infant son... While merging onto a main road, I accelerated to switch lanes without slowing traffic and noticed the car felt oddly underpowered.. I kept my foot on the gas, and a substantial rattle emerged from under the hood so I let off and drove steady on... We made it to our destination and I popped the hood to find oil soaked into the valve cover and head... I checked the oil and the stick was still wet, but since the car was just running I'm not sure the exact level...
Unfortunately, I recognize the noise it made on the road, and I'm 99% certain it spun a rod bearing... In other words, the engine is shot. 63,362 miles, synthetic oil changes every 4k-5k miles, dealer maintained...
I Have a 2000 Passat 30 valve v6. I got a low oil pressure message figured I could make it to the store for some oil. Well I turn a corner and heard a valve rattle and the car started to idle rough. I was two quarts low but the noise and the rough idle still exist. In neutral the noise is not noticeable. Driving the noise is only noticeable at high RPM. The car doesn't smoke and otherwise runs fine.
View 1 RepliesThe 2002 Passat was making a rattle noise at startup and flashed an oil pressure light. The dealer says there is an issue with the chain tensioner and oil tube within the engine.
I received the latest VW bulletin for the 1.8l turbo regarding the oil sludge and coking deposits issues and pending class action suit. I have been religious about the oil changes and the dealer has done them for the 10 yrs.
The car runs great and has been super reliable until this issue. There is 110K on the clock and I'm wondering if this is a potential sludge issue.
I have not given the go ahead yet but wonder if this:
a) sounds reasonable cost wise
b)needs to be done right away
c)should I pursue this with VW NA
I have had my 2006 B6 for 4 months now and it has been running perfect, and I have been loving it. I brought the car to the dealer to get PA state inspection and have the wiper recall taken care of. I then get a call from the dealer telling me the oil light came on during the test drive and they are looking into the cause.
Later that day the dealer calls me telling me that we have serious problems and that I will probably need a new engine, I was like WHAT!!! Now before I brought the car in it was running perfect I had no previous problems or anything. After talking to the dealer again, he said they found gas in the oil and a "ton" of metal parts in the oil filter compartment. They are now sending the VW Engineer and a local Rep to figure out what to do.
Engine failure at 12k miles? It seems weird and a major lemon if you ask me. I'm not sure what they're going to do at this point, but all I know is I drive 40k miles a year and need a care that can last, I am not paying $580 a month to drive a car with a replaced engine at 12k miles. This is very frustrating, I hope they either replace the car or pay off the remainder of the loan.
1.8 had recent coil pack problems? I recently had a coil pack fail in very hot weather 2 weeks ago. This week during another heat wave I believe the coil was again causing the engine to start missing. I know about VW's past reliability problems concerning coil packs and am now concerned that this may be surfacing again.
View 8 RepliesMy '99 V6 30V w/ 59K miles has started to make a strange noise. It is quiet until warmed up, then the sound starts. I suspect something emmisions-wise is activating after warmup.
It sounds like a rattle, or gulping, about 2-3 hz, fluid or air I can't decide. It does increase w/ throttle, but not proportionally - it just speeds up a bit. volume is pretty steady, it doesn't get louder.
So, I don't think it's in the valve train. Perhaps intake? Is there something that might be "flapping" in there, some sort of proportioning valve? (mine is NOT a VR6, it's the 30-valve Audi engine).
I think it's "sucking" related, if that makes sense. I checked the PCV pipes, a little gunky but clear; no cracks found. The combi-valve is working, tho there was a vacuum leak in its line which has been fixed. The secondary air-injector motor runs normally - the sounds isn't realted to it running.
I've looked all over, it is not something vibrating nearby in the engine compartment. The engine runs fine otherwise, but I suspect something is on the way out. I don't think it's water pump either, since the noise isn't tied to engine rpm.
I have had the right rear strut replaced three times in the last year and a half. The second time I also bought a new set of tires. It drove much smoother after that, however, it still has the following problem. When I'm driving on even a slightly bumpy street, it sounds like the right side of the backseat is loose. It rattles and squeaks. I've had the backseat removed each time I've replaced the strut and nothing is wrong there. Recently, I had some body damage repaired to the rear bumper and told the guy about this problem. He took out the backseat and found that with it removed and while being driven, it still made the same squeaky, rattly, loose sound and that the strut is still leaking. I have been avoiding bumpy roads and speed bumps.
View 6 RepliesI bought a 2005 wagon from a local dealer with 21K miles, the 1.8T, an automatic and 4mo. It was certified and still has 2 yrs and 24K miles on the warranty.
Anyway, I there is a rattle/rumble/vibration anytime the engine is at about 1200 RPM. I usually happens on small inclines, and doesn't matter if you are decelerating through 1200 or accelerating through it is makes the noise. I can get it to sustain itself if i keep it at 1200 on the gas or on the brake.
I am hoping it is just a heat shield that rattles at the certain frequency the engine makes at 1200, but I don't know. It is kind of right at that point where the transmission engages and disengages, torque converter?
Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
View 2 Replies'02 V6 30v with 73k.. engine noise sounds like rattle consistent with idle sounds like its coming from rear section of motor. i did search came up with a few probabilities but no resolutions just wondering if possible it could be oil pump because if i add oil then start up the noise disappears for a few mins then comes back, a few guys mentioned it could be camshaft tensioner.
View 4 RepliesLast night I was driving home in my 2002 Prius, and the 'triangle of death' as you call it, went on. I got off the #405 and parked for 10 minutes while I read the manual which said get to a dealer as soon as possible. I started it back up and the engine seemed to be fine but the 'triangle of death' was still there, so I decided to continue to drive but stayed in the right lane.
I must have gone another 20 miles when I suddenly lost engine power, the headlights and dashboard were fine, and hazard lights worked fine. I was able to get to a safe place and towed the car home. Along with the 'triangle of death', the check engine light (little red icon) was on but I didn't get the 'Main Engine' error message.
My girlfriend owns a '92 Plymouth Acclaim. We noticed a few weeks ago that there was a clunk/rattle noise coming from one wheel, and since it mostly happened while cornering, thought it might be CV joints or maybe suspension. She brought it to her mechanic who inspected the brakes and found that the rear shocks were bad, but sent her away without fixing anything. The other day, on a long drive, the rattle suddenly intensified, morphed into a loud grinding noise, and then the wheel fell off.
I think I'm going to have to confront the mechanic. The bearings apparently hadn't been repacked in some time, and were surely the cause of the rattle noise. I'm less concerned with the fact that he might have overlooked an obvious problem as much as neglected to properly service the vehicle.
Are brake techs supposed to check, then tighten wheel bearings or repack them if needed?
I have been using it since last 10 months and was totally in love with this car.. But recently, an error showed up on MFD as well as the engine checklight came on. all this happened after a while, when i started the car one fine the morning..
car stats:
model: 2008
mileage: 123300Km
bought at 92000Km and was trouble free till now..
I have a 2004 Touareg with 70,000 miles, and until recently the tire pressure monitors have worked perfectly. Now I'm getting a Flat Tire warning, or a warning of a defective wheel, or when I try to reset it tries to learn but fails, or it sets a tire pressure of say 42 but the pressure is only 38. The Dealer says "its a known problem", he thinks they're going to issue a recall, but doesn't have a fix.
View 5 RepliesMy 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
As I was getting on the highway today, I heard a loud warning bell and my MFD displayed "Oil Pressure High. ENGINE OFF!". It lasted all of 5 seconds and then disappeared. Car seemed fine (other than the usual ticks and annoyances).
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