What is this noise? Video included... [URL]... This noise comes up after the engine gets warmed up and only when the car is decelerating or idle. That is, as soon as I take my foot of the gas pedal the car starts making this noise and it is very loud. No error codes.
View 3 RepliesOur 2001 Passat wagon 4cyl turbo automatic has a random idle stutter. When sitting at a stop light the RPM's quickly drop and then regain idle. It happens at random times and only when idling after the engine has warmed up. It doesn't seem to matter if its in drive or park. What sensor could be failing or a possible cause? Over the past year the problem has increased from almost never to a few times at every stop light. My OBDII reader shows no codes. Car has 105K miles and I cleaned the throttle body.
View 2 RepliesOK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
View 1 RepliesWe've owned this 2002 Mazda Tribute v6 for six years. Recently, the car has become somewhat dangerous to drive. While driving down the road at any speed, releasing the throttle does not result in the engine decelerating or returning to idle. Instead, it continues to hold the speed steady for 3-5 seconds before the RPMs drop. At lower speeds (~5mph or so) the car will even accelerate a bit, which can be a problem in tight parking situations. At higher speeds (e.g. on the freeway) releasing the throttle has no effect for a few seconds (ie it does not decelerate), which can be very surprising if you're responding to suddenly slowing traffic. The brakes can, of course, overpower the engine, but you do have to push harder to get the same braking effect as if you were not fighting against the engine. Releasing the throttle and shifting into neutral while driving causes the engine to rev quite high (3,000rpm) for the same 3-5 seconds before dropping to a steady idle, but it does allow you to brake normally. Shifting back into Drive while in motion but not touching the throttle causes the engine to decelerate the car normally. Touch the gas even briefly, though, and the engine will once again surge.
Oh, and turning the steering wheel from side to side, as you might do while parking, also causes the engine to surge, though not as much as it does when I touch the gas pedal. Also, I've disconnected the throttle and cruise control cables and worked the throttle plate by hand. Doing so causes the RPM to rise, as you expect, but it does not immediately return to idle when the throttle plate snaps shut. Instead, the RPMs stay around 12~1500 for 3-5 seconds before it drops to idle.
Over the years, I've replaced the throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and other normal maintenance items. I used a meter to troubleshoot the IAC and TPS and used propane to look for vacuum leaks, but everything is within spec. There are recall notices related to unintended acceleration for these vehicles, but those are reportedly caused by interference between the engine cover and cruise control. I do my own maintenance and don't like engine covers, so I removed the cover from this car shortly after buying it; the engine cover cannot be causing this problem. I have disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the computer, but that has no effect. There are no trouble codes that show up on a OBD-II scanner, and the CEL is not illuminated. There are many internet reports of this problem, but thus far I've found none that indicate a solution.
I have a 2001 1.8t tip wagon(75k) that that is starting to worry me. It makes a tapping sound (coming from back of valve cover) AFTER it is warmed up at idle. When the RPMs go over 1,000, the sound goes away. Is this the cam chain adjuster or tensioner??? Also, when the engine first starts up it makes a similar noise , only louder, for the first couple of seconds.
View 5 RepliesAfter its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
View 4 RepliesHow to diagnose the engine issue I am having. The gx currently has 96k miles and I am planning on doing a timing belt and water pump replacement as I plan on keeping it as long as possible.
One new issue that crept up is that when going down the hill the car engine sounds like it's actually accelerating and the RPM drops to as if it was idling.
Normally when going down the hill it usually stays around 1 or 2 on the rpm, it's noticeably different and just started happening recently. What might be the cause of this?
Have owned a 2014 LS460 since April. Ever since then, when accelerating decelerating between 1000 and 3000 rpm, we hear a whining and grinding noise.
View 9 RepliesI need finding out what is causing my B6 passat to sound like this. It just recently starting happening. [URL] .....
View 15 RepliesPassat B6, 2009 TDI CR, 140 bhp, DSG.
Having an issue that's bugging me. all cold starts are fine. However, if I drive a short distance then try to restart the engine cranks, sounds like it catches but stalls.
It takes 2-4 retries to get it going, i'm not releasing the key too early as this happens even when I hold the key in.
I've not been able to get a VAG-COM on it yet but would like to know whether this is likely to be something simple or, if it's time to sell the car?
'02 V6 30v with 73k.. engine noise sounds like rattle consistent with idle sounds like its coming from rear section of motor. i did search came up with a few probabilities but no resolutions just wondering if possible it could be oil pump because if i add oil then start up the noise disappears for a few mins then comes back, a few guys mentioned it could be camshaft tensioner.
View 4 RepliesWe have a 2004 Passat V6, and we've noticed at idle, the engine makes 5 or six fast ticks, stops, then goes again, over and over. I tried searching but didn't find anything relevant.
Also, sometime when the AC is on, all of a sudden the air stops coming out, but the blower still roars, then a couple seconds later the air comes rushing out of the vents again.
I have a 2009 Santa Fe that when the engine has warmed up, the engine starts making a ticking/clicking noise. The dealership told me not to worry all cars make that noise and it was probably just a purge valve. Does this sound right?
View 2 RepliesI now have a p0011 code on my 2001 passat 1.8t aug. this is a thinker because right before the test drive around the block i did the following
- coolant flush
-replaced the fuel filter
-cleaned the knn air filter
-rotated the tires
-oil change with new castrol 5w-40 syn. and 1/2 a bottle of lucas syn oil stabilizer.
With a few phone calls a possible cause is the timing chain skipped a tooth cause of the lucas being to thick, other cause could be the tensioner finally went out?
Right know the car car has a rough idle and seems to be finding idle , and a noise from the engine around 4000 rpm.
I am waiting for the engine to cool off before i open her up to check timing.. if the chain is off a a tooth what could be the cause?
I took my 2008 Prius through a very aggressive robotic tunnel car wash and as soon as I left the car and drove off I noticed that the car was idling very rough. It has been continuing to do so for the past three days. Every time I drive the car, even if I'm not accelerating and the car is just decelerating, the car seems to have a very rough idle/Shake/sputter to it. It idles rough, it decelerates rough when foot off the gas pedal , and it's making a lot more noise than usual.
It used to decelerate quietly before the car wash. And this car wash was wack, like hyper pressurized. I mean when it was spraying down the windows it felt like the windshield was being shot. I just bought this car a few months ago.
I just replaced the timing belt and tensioner and idlers on my 02 camry 3.0 V-6. The car idles and runs fine until it is warmed up then won't idle, otherwise runs fine with good power.
View 1 RepliesThe vehicle in question is not our 2006 Passat
Car in Question:
2010 CC 2.0T DSG
12,4xx miles
I have noticed that when accelerating and decelerating I feel/hear an annoying clunk. I remember reading about this issue when I was reading this section all the time when our '06 was new, but when I went back and searched there only seemed to be people complaining and no real solutions to the issue. It really is hard to describe, but it seems to happen when slowing down the most, say when approaching a speed bump. I notice that if you apply the brakes longer ahead of time the clunk is less frequent, but its not like I wait until 3ft before the bump and slam on the brakes (also when decelerating into a slow corner/highway on-ramp).
I experience the same clunk when accelerating, usually when using more throttle than less; again not flooring it or anything too aggressive. One more example where I feel/hear this a lot is when coming home; I have a long narrow driveway w/ a garage at the end that I back into everyday. When I stop and put the car in reverse I get the clunk, but not until I press the throttle slightly. One weird thing is that I notice this clunk more when I have been in the car longer, with more stop and go traffic, in and out of stores etc. I have felt this on our '06, but not to this level
Some may say that I my problem could be solved by being more gentle on the throttle, but in all honesty I think I use it normally. There should be no clunk no matter how aggressive I am.
When I was at the dealer for my 10,000 mile service I mentioned the problem to the tech and they said they would take it for a test ride and report back. They told me that it was under normal operation and that the sound I heard was the DSG transmission going into and out of gear. I do know what they mean about the DSG, but this is a different problem, and if that was the case I wouldn't hear the clunk in instances such as reversing into my driveway.
I drive about 25 miles to work each day usually at highway speeds (~75mph). At the end of my trip as I'm coasting down the exit ramp and starting to apply my brakes, at around 30mph my car 'skips' for a split second.
It's hard to describe...it feels almost as if I've hit a patch of icy road and the ABS kicks in for a split second, but it's a little more severe than the feel of the ABS system activating. I don't know if it's a rough transmission downshift or what...but very annoying and hopefully not a sign of worse things to come.
The car has about 14k miles on it. It's a 3.6L Passat Wagon.