Passat (B6) :: No Start / Automatic Transmission Not Shifting To Neutral
Jan 28, 2011
So yesterday after running an errand I got home, after having dinner I was about to head out and, SURPRISE! The car wouldn't start... The engine doesn't turn, no lights on the gauges when inserting the key, no clicks.... the battery seems fine, as the radio works, the anti-theft/alarm works well, the 2nd key behaves the same way.
This morning, I called VW road side, the tow truck they sent couldn't take the car because it is in a tight spot and we can shift the car to neutral. We tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery without success... What to do??
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I have a relative that does this allot i didn't think was a good idea he said it don't hurt anything, and get better millage. Can this hurt anything, or actually improve mileage other than maybe coasting with it in gear? 2014 ram ....
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I've got 95k miles on my 2001.5 and have been noticing that the transmission seems to shift pretty hard. Today it seemed like it was hardest in the 3rd to 2nd downshift. I got it checked out a couple of months ago and the dealer said it was the throttle body (which I haven't cleaned yet).
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I shift my auto trans to neutral when approaching a red light. My theory is it reduces brake wear, reduces tranny and motor wear while sitting at the light and uses less fuel to remain in neutral until the light changes. My wife thinks it may harm the tranny.
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I notice my instantaneous gas millage goes up if I coast in neutral in my new Volvo V50; say when cruising up to stop lights or coming down a hill. I appear to be saving gas, but am I damaging my automatic transmission?
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1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine.
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1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine. I have never seen this!
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is it good practice to shift to neutral, while driving downhill on automatic transmission? the owner manual does not recommend, would like to know why.it makes sense to save gas, while doing this. (i used to do it while driving manual)
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I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy and until now we had little to no heat. In the morning when we first leave the house in the cold as we are speeding up we slip into neutral and we either have to pull over or shift the shifter into neutral and back to get it going again. We only notice this happening when it is very cold. How do we fix this before it becomes a bigger problem?
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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I shift to neutral when approaching a red light when my speed is exactly at 7 mph to save on battery power that would otherwise continue to propel the car forward. Combined with proper timing, this also allows my car to come to a complete stop without the use of brakes on flat roads. Once stopped, I immediately shift back to drive to allow the battery to charge if needed and of course in preparation for the green light.
A few sites, such as Putting your car in neutral at read lights. Good or bad? (red light, manual transmission) - Automotive -Sports cars, sedans, coupes, SUVs, trucks, motorcycles, tickets, dealers, repairs, gasoline, drivers... - City-Data Forum mention that shifting from drive to neutral at red lights, then back to drive again when the lights turn green puts wear on automatic transmissions.
Given that the Prius C has CVT, will it also wear, due to such frequent D -> N -> D shifting under the circumstances described?
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My 2007 V6 failed me several times on very cold mornings. I start the car, wait about 1 minute and then drove it to a stop sign or red light (still cold). When the light turned green, I tried to proceed, but it was as if the car was in neutral. The car would not move. It was only after about 2-3 minutes, when the car started to warm up that I was able to get a gear. After 5-7 minutes, it was as if nothing happened. I have 97K on the car.
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Just this morning I noticed that the first shift my automatic transmission makes is not so smooth. Almost like I'm getting a slight shove from behind. Repeated at every stoplight. I know I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow, but am hoping to get ahead of the curve and be prepared for what it might entail.
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i have a 2001 elantra with 136k. the automatic transmission (which otherwise shifts very smoothly and shows no sign of problems) shifts suddenly and erratically when i'm driving at a constant speed. I'll be traveling along (speed doesn't matter), and it will suddenly downshift, then upshift, then downshift, etc. this started off being very occasional, but now it randomly shifts every 5-10 seconds.
I've changed and checked the fluid, and tried replacing the Input Speed Sensor and the Output Speed sensor...that didn't fix it. it also does not blow a check engine code. I'm convinced there must be a sensor somewhere that is faulty. it really seems as though the transmission is electronically confused.
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I have an automatic 2010 Elantra Touring and I drive 115 miles a day (4 days a week) with it (currently have 38K miles). Part of the drive goes up over an 1100 foot foothill, so I change elevation of about 800 feet on the drive. Over the last two weeks, I have noticed the transmission shifting a little rougher and at higher RPMs (everywhere and not just going up the hill). The transmission fluid level looks good, but I am wondering if I need to change the fluid and filter? Or is there something else I need to look at? I need this car to last another three years and want to make sure I take care of it right. Currently every 3500 miles I change the oil and rotate the tires, but I am just not sure about the transmission.
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I have a BMW 523i SE AUTO (1997) 2494 Petrol. In auto transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but won't shift any higher. In steptronic/manual transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 5th without any problems therefore suggesting that the problem isn't the gearbox itself. Only very occasionally does the shift electronics telltale light appear on the dash, yet the problem with the auto transmission is continuous. A local garage specializing in automatics suggested that it was the gearbox inhibitor. I've today had this changed but the problem still exists.
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I have a 2010 Matrix with automatic transmission. 5.5 year old with only 44,000 KM ... The transmission jerks annoyingly when up-shifting from gear one to two. I replaced the transmission oil and had Toyota service confirm there is a problem.
I read that the accumulator should be checked and adjusted as well as the throttle which can be done without removing the transmission, but Toyota tells met hat everything is now electronic and there is nothing to adjust. How to proceed?
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just bought a 2003 camry 4 cylinder with 126xxx miles automatic, everything seem fine when i was test driving and all. I bought the car and finally drove the car for around town running errands and all of a sudden i started to noticed a stutter in between shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
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I have been having phantom automatic transmission problems with occasional harsh shifting, mostly up shifting through all the gears but sometimes downshifting. This problem started in May 2014, lasted off and on for several days, and then stopped occurring. There had been a few instances of small drops of fluid on my carport but nothing consistent. Then in September, the problem started again on the same basis: on/off again, nothing consistent. When I couldn’t locate the port under the hood to check the transmission fluid, I took the Elantra to the Boise Hyundai dealership to ask where the trans fluid port was located. My service rep told me that there was no port in the new vehicles and that the transmission fluid was not changed until 100,000 miles at a cost of $400. The service technicians could not find anything wrong with the vehicle when they hooked it up to their computers to check the error codes, and the vehicles would not perform the harsh shifting when they test drove the car. The techs re-set the adaptive points and I was sent on my way. A few days later, the harsh shifting started again on and off, phantom problem. I took the Elantra back into the dealership and told them to keep it for as many days as it took for a tech to drive it home and start it cold in the morning. The transmission did not perform the harsh shifting for the 80 miles the tech drove it home and back to the dealership for three days.
After driving the Elantra another week, the phantom trans problems re-occurred. After surfing the web and checking the Hyundai Customer Forum, all I could find was problems with 2010 Elantra transmissions and my service tech admitted that Hyundai had replaced thousands of 2010 transmissions.
Through the dealership I opened a Case File for my transmission problems because there is something definitely wrong with the vehicle and I want a new transmission, and will press my case to the max. I’ve kept a log since September, noted daily temperatures, and times the trans has performed harsh shifting. I’ve kept the problem to a minimum by letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes and will only drive it when the tachometer needle rests on 1,000 rpms.
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When my 2012 Camry's automatic transmission shifts gears in the 20-30 mph range, there is a hesitation during the shifting. I had an independent automatic transmission technician test drive my Camry, and he said my transmission had "light throttle 2-3 slide." He also noted a high frequency clicking sound in the vicinity of the transmission while the engine was running, which he said may be a malfunctioning solenoid.
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I bought the car about a week ago, whenever the auto tranny shifts gears there is a slight jerk that old honda autos are known for, my wife's car is a 01 celica gt which I bought 2 months ago and went through castrol import ATF 3x drain n refill method suggested by honda for their auto trany, I attempted the same thing in the gts and the shift jerk went down a little but not by much, the gt auto tranny is so smooth I can't even tell whenever it shifts up or down other then high rpm engine noise when it gets there. Is it the engine being much more powerful then the gt to cause that jerk? Should I try a different fluid? Need to know if theirs is smooth across all gears in any rpm range.
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