Passat moving forward very slightly every few seconds while stopped with auto stop button engaged? It happened twice to me today on a flat surface.
View 7 RepliesOK, this is the second time I noticed this. I'm at a stop light, looking around, suddenly, I notice I am slightly moving forward. Is my foot (on the brake) just too relaxed, or what? I have never experienced this before in any vehicle.
View 14 RepliesYesterday I reversed my 1996 Subaru Outback (manual transmission) out of a perpendicular parking place on a hill, swung around forward and coasted down the hill. Near the bottom, I let out the clutch out without realizing I was still in reverse gear. It made a not-so-awful noise (sounding rather like engine braking) and I very quickly put it in neutral. I immediately smelled a fairly strong gasoline/exhaust aroma and the engine stalled.
The Subaru restarted without trouble, but the check engine light was on. Everything appears to function normally now, and I've reset the engine light by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a few minutes.
Have I likely damaged anything? Is there anything I should check? Should I have tried to read the diagnostic code?
So I've had a habit of slightly engaging my clutch at stop lights so that the transition to the gas is easier and quicker. Never had a problem until today where I smelt the dreaded clutch burn odor. I think I had it too engaged since it was sorta lugging at a standstill for a bit, but in general is this a bad idea? If I don't go as aggressive as the lugging feeling but slightly release it, am I doing damage?
View 19 RepliesMy 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX AT. Recently, while I am stopped at a Stop Sign or a Red Light, the car will suddenly start moving forward causing me to apply more pressure to the brakes. It also feels that the brake pedal is traveling a lot further now.
View 3 Repliesi am wondering if any other touareg v-10 owners have experienced what i call "slop in the drivetrain"?symptoms: when just crawling off from a dead stop and then letting off of the pedal i can both hear and feel a little clunk whether forward or reverse. its real subtle but its always there if you listen for it. Is this just what they call normal "slash" of the worm gears in the differentials? i would hate to find out later once warranty's gone that i should have done something about it earlier? i have 19,000 miles on it, 70%highway and 30% city driving.
View 5 RepliesWhile driving our 1990 toyota corolla (3-speed automatic transmission) on the freeway recently, the car gave a slight jerk, at which point my husband looked at the gas gauge and noticed it was well below "E".. Oops. fortunately, there was an exit right there with a gas station. Filled up and we were off toward the next on-ramp. Got to about 35-40 mph, and all of a sudden the car literally just stopped moving forward after violently jerking back and forth several times. We then tried to put in neutral and push it to the side, but it wouldn't even do that. Everything was locked up, seized solid. Somehow we managed to get it to the side.
The flatbed tow truck took us home, and all we could do by that point was move a foot or two in reverse after it dropped us off... fast forward... After several days/weeks of it sitting around we can now actually drive it forward! reverse! but we haven't taken it out of the driveway to go more than 5 mph.. We had seen some fluid leaking prior to this incident, but could NOT figure out where it was coming from despite checking obvious fluids meticulously every couple of days. A friend said it might have been the diff fluid? We'd like to fix the car, but to repair a tranny on this old car (although it only has 67K miles!!!) is too expensive. My husband wants to make it a weekend project.
When I come to either a hard stop or apply my brakes hard while on the highway I can feel a slight shift of the seat forward (as if it is tilting forward) and then when I accelerate again I feel it rock back into place. I only weigh about 150lbs so I doubt it has to do with that. It's minimal and I think it started at around 50K miles (so, just a couple thousand miles ago).
View 7 RepliesThe A/c stopped blowing cold on my 06 Passat 2.0t. I checked the pressures on the low side of the system and it was 100 psi with a cold engine and 130 when hot. Obviously this is too much. It seems as if the compressor is always engaged even when the a/c is off (every part of the a/c pulley is always spinning the little nut sticking out of the center of the pulley spins as well not but im not sure if that's how it is when the compressor isn't engaged).
View 17 RepliesI let my father use my 99 b5. He said it was driving normal, than all of a sudden it stopped moving, and started making a grinding sound from the front end. it goes into gear, but won't move. Is this the cv axle going bad or something else?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon. I got gas this am, and on my 30 minute drive to work all was fine until I got into traffic or came to a stop sign. While at the stop sign the car started to lurch forward or even seemed to be up and down. The idle was fine, completely constant. It was like the car was hopping or wanting to push forward. It did not happen in reverse or neutral and the car was fine while driving. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesI'm getting some vibrations from my '06 2.0T. The car tries to jerk forward at a dead stop, RPMs jump about 100-200RPM. It kinda feels like stalling a manual transmission, only milder. The car is burning a bit more oil than it should.
Many claim it could be a faulty PCV Valve. Since I'm a little on the broke side and my car is out of warranty, what should I look for to tell if the valve or the hose is faulty?
As I've been doing work on the rear struts I noticed drag on the rear wheels when the car is jacked up. It's definitely the brakes. At first I dismissed it thinking it was the rotor going out of alignment when the tension from the wheel lug nuts is released (I don't have the retaining screws on the rotor). I can turn the wheels by hand but there is definite resistance.
However, yesterday I asked someone to listen to the rear wheels while the engine was off and the car was moving slowly. They could hear the sound of pads against the rotors. There is no smell nor do I notice any extra heat.
The caliper pistons move very easily and I'm fairly confident they're not stuck. The rotors and pads are in great shape. So I'm assuming it's an issue with the parking brake cable. But, I don't even know where to start. The parking brake seems to work fine otherwise.
I bought a 2007 Prius 2 months ago and I noticed that when I stop at a stop light and engage the parking/emergency brake while keeping it in Drive gear the car creeps forward. I have more experience with manual cars where when you pull the emergency brake it locks the car and prevents it from rolling forward or back despite the car being still in gear, so I'm curious to know whether this is a normal thing with a Prius and pushing the P button in addition to the emergency brake at a stop light with a slight incline is necessary. I find that this two step process of disengaging the E break and putting the car back in Drive makes you slow to take off. But what I want to know if this normal with a Prius?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 3.6 wagon. Tonight, I opened the tailgate with the remote and when I pushed the button on the gate to close it, nothing happened. The close button has suddenly stopped working. I called the dealer and he told me to push it down by hand. That's fine for now, but I want the button working.
There isn't something I did wrong to get the button to refuse to close the door is there? I am assuming the button is broken and needs to be replaced, unless someone tells me that this is a common problem and there is an easy fix.
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
On my 2.5 SE auto, it feels like the car shifts into neutral at stop lights. Is this the case? If so, is this cause for concern. I know on my old Volvo S60, they removed this feature because it was causing premature wear with all of the extra shifting into and out of neutral.
View 1 RepliesHow to stop the ticking coming from my hazard button on my 2002 Passat? I tried pulling the button out itself but I am wondering If I have to pull the entire radio console out. Relay issue maybe?
View 1 Replies1999 grand prix. Controls are manual version, not automatic climate control. a/c works fine but compressor is engaged whether a/c button is pushed on or off. the only way i can disable a/c is too set fan speed to OFF. does not matter if control is set to vent, or feet. a/c runs with a/c switch set to on or off. This is not an issue of selector set to dash or defrost. I assume it is not a clutch gap issue since the compressor shuts off if i turn fan control to OFF.
View 1 RepliesI just installed new coils, front and rear control arm bushings, and ball joints. I had some noise before the install, but after it was all good and quiet. Now, I have a clunk during braking hard, and I've noticed a clunk upon moving forward. In my mind I would think the mounts are going bad. 140k, and i'm not sure if they've been replaced before. I do know the dog bone has an insert.
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