Car is running fine.. I cant tell any changes in the car at all. Going to the dealer to get fixed and also make them fix my darn headliner that has supposedly been on backorder for 3 months now.
View 2 RepliesYesterday (Saturday), I stopped to get gas in my 2004 Passat. I left the gas station and forgot to put the gas cap back on and close the gas cap door properly. I drove about 2 miles home and then noticed I had left it open so I closed it. I didn't drive the car anymore yesterday but then took it to church this morning and when I did, the malfunction indicator lamp (yellow light that looks like an engine) came and and remained on. I turned the car off and then restarted it and it remained on.
When I looked in the owners manual, it says this is related to the emissions system. On other cars I've owned, not having the gas cap on tight can cause the "check engine" light to come on so I'm basically assuming the equivalent happened here. Any way to turn that light off easily? I assume it would go out over time and/or the next time I get gas as has typically been the case in other cars I've owned (including a 2000 VW Eurovan). The car runs fine and doesn't seem to have any other issues or problems.
I just starts my 1999 VW Passat (manual) today, and the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) was on. The car is shaking the most when I change gears, then it shakes but it's ok when I'm driving. I saw it could be bad, and I shouldn't drive the car. I drove to a VW dealer garage to fix it.
I just wanted to know what it could be, if you had the same problem and what it was. Also how much it should be too, etc. I know that my engine was hot yesterday, it was smelling a bit burned after a couple of very steep hills in San Francisco, I was using a lot the first gear because of stop signs and cars behind and in front of me.
So 3 weeks ago, I noticed the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I immediately went to the Auto Zone and have them use the diagostnic device to identify the "malfunction". The device pulls out "p1136 manufactured controlled fuel and air metering." The guy said it could be the gas cap being loose so he loosens it and tightens it. He said he would erase the message and advised me to go to an auto mechanic shop if the lamp light shows up. That evening the light lit up.
I haven't driven that car for approx 3 days then I drove it to go get gas. After I got gas, the light disappeared. I dunno why. It stayed disappeared until several days later. So, i am wondering...is it a big a problem? can i still drive?
I bought a 2001 Prius from a private seller after they had just replaced the Hybrid battery with a Gen II battery and it has been running great until the last few days.
First the Malfunction Indicator Lamp and Master Warning Light came on and my husband and I took it to a dealer. The dealer said the error code was P3000 but didn't know more than that. He said he didn't know if the v12 battery currently in the car is the correct battery and he said it looked like it wasn't secured correctly. He said I would have to take it somewhere else to have it worked on.
When we picked up the car everything was normal again and none of the warning indicators came on. After driving it for about 80 miles both warning indicators came on again. I continued driving the car 15 miles, turned it off for about 5 hours and when I turned it on again only the Malfunction Indicator Lamp came on. At first my gas mileage was unaffected but now it has decreased slightly. I usually get about 41 mpg and I'm getting about 37-38 mpg since we picked up the car.
On my way home from work tonight, the master warning light and the check engine (malfunction indicator lamp) appeared on the dashboard, and the hybrid system warning light has popped up on the multi-informational display.
View 11 RepliesI pulled my 2005 Prius out of the garage today and parked it on the driveway. When I went back later that day to pull it back under the garage, nothing would work and the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" came on. I was thinking my battery in my key had gone bad and replaced it. When I tried to start the car for the second time the engine would not turnover, the clock light looked dim, the locks would not work and my headlights would not come on.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 Prius won't start for the first time in its 45,000 miles. First try only the malfunction indicator lamp went on. After a pause and a few tries later, the fuel gauge and gear indicator cluster flashed on and off while I was attempting to start (fuel indicator racing across its grid and gear indicators outlined with "dotted" lines -- tank is 1/2 full BTW).
Later tries got no response except the malfunction lamp. I tried both keys in the ignition, also checked door lock functions, and found the keys will still lock the doors, but the click is noticeably weak and the unlock function doesn't work.
I have a 2008 Prius with about 34,000 miles. While I was driving yesterday the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I returned home (was 20 miles away), but did not notice anything wrong while driving. Thanks to Priuschat, I found discussions that said to check if the gas cap was on correctly; sure enough, mine was not on tightly. I've just put the cap back on, but when I started the car, the malfunction indicator still came on. Will the warning light clear on it's own (if the problem was the gas cap).
View 3 RepliesI have an 08 prius with about 36k miles on it. Never had a problem other then getting the water pump replaced under warranty during scheduled maintenance.
View 3 RepliesYesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
View 4 RepliesOut driving the other day and suddenly lost power and dash illuminated the EPC and Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Did a bee line to my home and experienced loss of power and engine vibration. At traffic lighta it emitted large quantities of white or blue smoke that smelled like gas.
Connected to VCDS and had 4 codes:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
000769 - Cylinder 1 P0301 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
004874 - Cylinder Disabling
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
My assumption was a bad coil, so I swapped them but no joy. Then decided to swap coils and plugs and observed cylinder #1 was filled with gas. Siphoned it out and it was able to fill about 1/4th of a beer bottle, or 3 ounces. Top of piston #2 looked slightly wet, but the origin could have been overflow from #1 via intake manifold. I'm thinking #1 injector stuck in the open position. Car is out of warranty so it may be on my dime unless I can convince dealer that this is power-train or emissions related. Best case, I need one or two injectors, oil replacement from gas contamination, plugs and labor. I thought about the worst case and it could be the above + a complete short block + catalytic converter. No tune, 100% stock
Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
The Malfunction Indicator Light on my 03 VW Passat 1.8T just came on last night. After doing some research online I noticed that there seems to be some issues with the coil packs on the 1.8's. Any other issues that this light is linked to?? And is the coil packs still very hard to get?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 B5.5 Passat and the Malfunction Indicator Light went off. I went to Autozone for a diagnostic and received the error code:
PO243- Turbo/Sup Wastegate solenoid A malfunction
I did a search but was unable to find out what this is.
I have been to the dealer 3 times so far because of something to do with the lighting system. The MFD says "AFS Inoperative" and the indicator light flashes for bulb failure or malfunction in the adaptive front lights system.
The dealer has replaced a bulb and power module thus far, but it hasn't fixed the malfunction. The indicator light and warning comes on 4 out of 5 times I drive the car and usually within the first few minutes of driving. It occurs with our without the lights on.
The lights do work at all times, but I don't think the adaptive steering/lighting is working when the error occurs.
I have an 07 Passat Wagon. The headlight malfunction indicator light came on for my passenger side low beam. I replaced the bulb, which was visibly burn out (broken filament), but with a new bulb in, the light still is not working and the malfunction indicator is still on. What is the cause of this? I have the regular headlamps, not the xenon lights.
View 2 RepliesThere is an arm that has come loose and is in between the spring in the right rear wheel well area and I cannot find what its called. It comes out from the center of the car and down and has an upside down cup which belongs on a post with 4 little contacts. Additionally, my brake lamp indicator light was intermittently coming on and off after braking. Now that I have put the cup back on, the lamp is off. I want to be sure there isn't anything else missing from this part, but cannot find the name and am concerned as to how it came off its post to begin with.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata. My check engine light came on and also my ESC light. My car does not accelerate. It takes literally about 40 seconds to get up to 20 miles an hour. I called the hyundai 800 number and they said there is a recall for a "stop lamp switch malfunction".
View 3 RepliesI've just bought a 2005 Santa Fe CRDI 2.0 Second hand, one owner from new, 60,000miles in 7 years. Just had it's 60,000 mile service. Until today perfect. Started car and no revs. but when I put in gear and moved the car, the revs kicked in and I was able to drive normally. Pulled over to side, into neutral, no revs FOR 1 2 or 3 SECONDS, then revved as normal, put in gear, and able to drive OK. Meanwhile, the MIL light came on and stayed on. I know what the hand book says but before I take it to our Hyundai dealer.
View 5 RepliesMonth ago the malfunction indicator turned on. On checking it was found that wires over the engine were eaten by rats. Reconnection of wires solved the problem.
Today the malfunction indicator light is blinking. Could it be the same wires going loose?