Passat (B6) :: MIL Came On - Cooling System Malfunction
Jun 11, 2011
My MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.
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I've recently started popping up a random P2181 performance malfunction in cooling system.
It's so random and shows no signs of any other problems that I'm confused. Temp gets hot, stays exactly where it should be, 200. Never gets a tick hotter, or even close to above 200. Air works, heat works fine. No loss of power. It only seems to come on when I really put my foot down.
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The MIL came on and I scanned for codes. First was P0118, Engine Coolant Temp Circuit High Input. Reset it and then received P1296 -Cooling System Malfunction. Temp gauge needle is positioned where it always is.
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This code came up on my car, what it means or what part needs to be replaced.
008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 84971 km
[Code] .....
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I am getting to check engine codes and I can't figure out what is causing them, one is P1296 cooling system malfunction, the other is P1654 Check DTC Memory of control panel ECU, any clues as to why I'm getting these, I did have a bad thermostat i changed that and it's still on, I also used the new prestone antifreeze for all makes and models, cause I am about 200 miles away from a dealership for g12.
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The code in question is:
18613 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump
It's a fun catch-all code that can be thrown from any of those. Given that our cars are approaching the 6 year mark, the coolant sensor & thermostat are the most likely culprits. Most of us up on maintenance have already done the green-top sensor, so it's probably the thermostat. In which case, here is the official changing the thermostat DIY: [URL] .....
If you get this code, first check your fans. They're running? Okay, change your sensor & clear it. If it comes back, change the thermostat. If it still comes back, which has been known to happen, investigate further. [IMG] [URL] .....
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Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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Not enough cooling in the B5.5 Passat wagon.
I had the freon checked and it seems to be fine, however it takes a long time for the cabin to cool of here in North Carolina. THe air coming out of the vents doesn't seem as cold as my older 1998 Passat. I used to have a silver sedan 1.8T and the a/c was temperature was ice cold and it got very cold after 20 seconds or so. It reminded me of GM cars.
My wagon is dark blue and beige leather interior which is probably why it takes longer to cool off. If you go for a short trip and the car has been out in the sun it would take at least 15 to 20 minutes to get comfortable. The compressor generally cycles off only once and then it stays on for the duration. My old sedan was the same way. I use the a/c on the rec mode which keep the air colder but still not quite as cold as some other models.
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So CEL came on a few weeks ago as it does here and there so got it scanned today and it said "cooling system too lean" could it just be the mods throwing the light. car is tuned so i thought cel wasn't suppose to come on and no mods to the cooling system beside cold air intake..
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Planning on doing a flush, but how do i bleed the air in the system after? is there a bleed bolt?
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I have a 1997 no turbo Passat 2.0 6 cyl.Over the weekend one of the plastic pipes for the coolant system cracked and after the replacement I end up with the panel telling me that there is no coolant on the reservoir. How to bleed the air out of the system or if there is any bleeding valve for this purpose? And where is located?
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Have an '07 2.0T w/92K on it. Check eng light came on over the weekend. Performance is fine etc. Went to AutoZone just to find the general area of the the trouble code since there's no one with a VAG Com nearby. The code is as the title indicates. For the last 5 months the temp gauge has been moving 1-2 ticks to the left (cooler) of the normal 200 degrees, then it will go back to 200 etc. It previously has always stayed on 200 once it warmed up. Does this sound like a thermostat?
If it is, I'm wondering if I could save some money while they were in there to go ahead and change the TB as well? From what I've researched the thermostat is in same area. I was planning on doing the TB at around 100-110k so while it would be earlier than planned I'd do it if it meant saving a bit from the combo work.
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So I'm driving home from work today, when I notice a new little light in the instrument cluster (looks like a little sun with a ! in the middle). So I dig out the manual and read..."Bulb failure or malfunction in the adaptive front lights system."
I drove up close to see which DRL light is not on...so....at 15k miles my right front head lamp was out. I called my local dealer...the bulb is covered and will be replaced at no charge (4 yrs/50k miles). They said I could stop by anytime and get it replaced. So, no problem there...
But....question: Why do VW bulbs blow so often?? My old '99 Golf and '01 GTI both blew no less than 5 head lamp bulbs starting at about 15k miles (same as my current Passat now). I see VW's all the time with one "eye" out - just an observation - why is this?
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is a 4X4 and has the V6 engine. Mileage is 172,000+. For a few years, I have had problems with the AC no longer cooling after I drive 20 or so miles and stop the truck, go in a store and start back up only to find that the AC will not cool after the stop. This seems to happen more when the weather is hot. Only once has it gone out without stopping the car and it was on I40 driving trough Oklahoma in 100+ degree weather. Once it quits cooling, after driving 20 to 30 minutes, it usually starts to cool again. It sometimes speeds up the process if I roll the windows down.Coolant levels are fine.
So...is there a faulty sensor somewhere? What could it be that is the problem?
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My dealers charges $60 for this. Sounds like all they do is drain the radiator and refill with new anti-freeze. I recall when it used to mean drain the radiator, refill with clean water, run the engine, flush, and then refill with new anti-freeze. If all they do is drain the radiator and refill, I guess I can buy the anti-freeze and do it myself and save about $45. Or is there more to it than the service manager described?
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My 2009 has been showing the CEL off and on for a few weeks. Have had it read at auto zone twice, two different codes. Both cooling system related, but not the same. Today I filled the gas tank and it went back off.
Is it possible for the cap to be causing the light, or would the scanners tell that in a code? I just hate to take it to the mechanic when it is running fine and the light is not even staying on.
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Ok, a year or two ago, a small leak in our 04 GX470 prompted me to have an a/c guy recharge system (little did I know how easy it was to do). At the time, he used his blacklight (during the day) and "thought" the condenser might have a leak in it.
Fastforward to now, the system stopped cooling. There isn't any noise from the compressor and the clutch does seem to engage normally.
I went to Autozone and rented the DVD on A/C systems. Using the gauges, I found there was no pressure on the H or L sides. I replaced the condensor (a no brainer ... it even came filled with desiccant/drier though I had to return it since the condenser didn't have the plugs in place so the desiccant/drier would have likely been 'wet' already ... no problem). I noted a very slight grainy, metallic in the system, but not very significant ... I did not flush any hoses, but I did look at all visible hoses for dye stains.
I connected a vacuum pump and kept it a 30mm Hg vacuum for 30 min and rechecked it 30 min later to see that it held the vacuum. The first time, it didn't, so I rechecked my connections and repeated. It seemed to work. I charged the system with 24 oz (27-29 is capacity so I wasn't quite full) and the system was nice and cold.
Unfortunately, cool only lasted 3-1/2 days!
The original condenser plug (for the desiccant reservoir) was plastic or teflon, but the one that came with my replacement was Aluminum. A replacement desiccant bag also came with another plug (a plastic or teflon one), but it seemed to strip so I opted for the metal one anyway (besides, it had two green 'O' rings to just one 'O' ring for the plastic one.
Two days ago, I thought I'd got it to hold the vacuum in the system, recharged it again (I dried the desiccant bag in the oven for 5 hours at 175 deg F to make sure I'd gotten rid of any moisture that had developed).
Dog gone it, it's hot again! Looking at it with my black light at night, I do see dye (I'm using the yellow kind) at the L-side Schrader valve and on the plug to the desiccant compartment, but no where else. Where's the drip line for the condensate so I can check to see if there's a leak in the evaporator?
I tried wrapping some teflon tape around the metal plug for the desiccant/drier, but it still wouldn't hold a vacuum when I tried using the pump tonight.
I have another dessicant/drier bag and plug arriving tomorrow since I'm afraid that it still could just be leaking out the base of the condenser, but I'm not sure.
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This morning (cold outside) I started my 2011 Golf TDI and the cooling system light started flashing.
The owners manual says to contact my dealer if this happens. I originally thought that it was because the coolant was low, but the manual states that if the coolant is low, the light will be solid.
I scanned the car with my VAG-COM and there were no related faults found.Perhaps my owners manual is wrong and it really is because the coolant was low? (that's how my mk3 was).
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