Passat (B6) :: Loud Sounds After Startup - RPM Revved Up To 3500 Then Went Back To Idling
Apr 4, 2011
I have a 3.6 4motion and recently after i started it up just now too, it made a diesel like weird sound, and the RPM revved up to like 3500 then went back to idling.
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Ok, I have owned my 02 Passat with the 30V 2.8L V6 since may. I got it with 115K and now its just under 129K I had the timing belt done at Jimmy's in Provo UT at 126K and up until then the engine ran great. Since the belt was replaced <along with the water pump and such> . The car has a tendency to feel like its idling rough, and when you start it up first thing on a cold morning it sounds like the valves are rattling. It does this for a brief second then goes away until the next time you start it in the cold morning. It wont do this if its warm outside, or after you start it previously that day. So far I have replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum 2 prong plugs, and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump when it dead on me without warning about 2 months ago.
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I have a 2002 Camry 4cyl. with 235,000 miles and recently when I had pulled into someones driveway on a downhill slope and when I put the car in reverse and tried to back out, the car revved up like in neutral then slammed into reverse like it was slipping and then slamming into gear. Forward gears seem, what maybe causing it.
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When I leave my car running, i hear that it has extremely loud engine noise. Nothing dangerous or weird but just Loud idling. It's at 900 RMP. What causes it and how can I achieve a nice pleasant sound ..
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I was driving down a long steep hill on the highway going about 65. I put it into engine braking, B, because I didn't want to just ride the brake the whole way down. The engine was revving pretty loud and with no RPM guide, I had no clue if it was OK, so I ended up going back into D and just rode the brakes all the way downhill.
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It feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
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I've been working on a 04 Buick rendezvous and it has a very loud high pitch squeal when revved past 3000 rpms. Along with a serious power loss when the squeal starts. Has a new power steering pump as of today. And I took the belts off and revved it and the squeal is still there. That rules out the squeal coming from the belts. It is coming from some where in the engine bay and I'm stumped. I was almost positive it was the power steering pump since it sounded like it was about to go. But alas it was not. I does a little squeak when first started but nothing when idling. I've heard of a squeal coming from a clogged cat and it blowing out the egr valve. The squeal is so loud that you can hardly stand near the car.
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Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
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I have an 06 2.0T passat sedan. After a year, I started getting this loud rattling noise from one of the panels in the back everytime I hit a bump in the road. At first, I thought it was the rear tray behind the seats. But after sitting in the back with my son while my wife drove, I realized that it's a panel on the ceiling. It's this long thin panel that runs along the width of the rear ceiling, right along the top of the rear windshield. I'm thinking I could just remove the panel and put some sound proofing material or adhesive foam pads or something.
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I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
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2008 Passat with TSI and tiptronic transmission. The wife has two instances were the engine speeds up on it's own. She swapped vehicles, so I wasn't able to get into all the details, but it sounds like the engine rev'ed up to 5,000 rpm, but the car didn't speed up. Transmission dropping out of gear or downshifting?
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I have a 2009 Scion xD and when I am idling in D or P, my car sounds like a diesel engine. It makes this propeller kind of sound on the driver side and it is worse when I am stopped or idling, but does not go away when I am driving. It has about 76,000 miles and I moved from AZ to CA, not that I think that makes much of a difference, but the high heat in AZ can cause problems for cars. The heater core went out in the fall of last year and I just had all 4 struts replaced. I really don’t want to have to spend too much more on the car to be honest and hope this is just a simple issue.
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I came out to my car to go to work and it sounds like a Mack truck idling roughly. I'm trying to get a hold of my mechanic to confirm the problem before calling the police and AAA and my insurance. He hasn't called back, so I'm dead in the water sitting in my car.
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On startup my 2005 Prius standard produces a low level cyclic noise which sounds like a hacksaw. This noise lasts for several minutes and is not affected by putting the car in motion or leaving it parked. The noise seems to be coming from the Synergy Unit but who knows?
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I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe that I am getting road ready for my son, The engine has recently started idling very high, 2500 RPM at startup. I disconnected the IAC servo and it drops right down to about 900 RPM. I replaced the IAC with a brand new one and it does the same thing at startup, 2500+ RPM. Checked vacuum hoses / tubes. I replaced 2 crack / dry vacuum hoses. Same problem for a while, then idle went down to about 1250. Started to drive it, test ride. while accelerating, seems OK as soon as I take my foot off of the gas, idle goes to 2500 - 3000 RPM until I apply brakes and then it drops back down to 1000 or so. (SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK PROBLEM. I CANT FIND IT, IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 CANS OF CARB CLEANER AND HOURS OF REPLACING ALL VACUUM HOSES.)
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My truck starts right up, then immediately almost stalls or stalls completely. It also shakes a little when idling while its in Park. I just recently had my egr valve, pcv valve, spark plugs&wires, and fuel filter replaced. it has 104,000 miles on it. What could be causing it to do this?
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Looking for a good diagram of the complete vacuum system on the AEB 1.8t 99 passat. I am throwing a 1136 code which is indicated as a "Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering". I recently finished a complete rebuild and engine is finally back in but running in limp mode. During the rebuild, I used mobil 1 synthetic as an assembly lube for all internal components including valve train.
I immediately wet fouled O2 sensors and spark plugs. After repeated removal and cleaning for plugs and O2 sensors i have progressed beyond seeing the "wet" fouling but plugs are still very rich, black in color but dry. Engine starts and runs at idle(lumpy) consistently and will run for as much as 5 minutes but very rich. If i rev engine to 3000-3500 rpm it will "POP" or backfire and immediately stall.
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Started smelling exhaust in the cab while idling, and at startup. After further investigating found out the EGR inlet tube is leaking at the flex joint. So my question is , is there anything that will jump at me while I'm doing this tube replacement.
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I just got a used 2015 with only 1000 miles on it. Everything is great except I notice when going up and over the mountain highway I take everyday to work the car revs kind of loud and feels like there's not a lot of power. I don't know if this is normal or not, but it doesn't sound right to me.
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I drive my prius mostly in city/suburbs with limited hwy time. I drive in a way to minimize battery use. I have no EV, top ECO zone ICE accelerations, coasting with no battery use, etc.
I recently noticed that battery fan kicked to moderately loud (a rare event in my driving) after several miles of hwy driving and later near 50 mph acceleration after exiting hwy. Flat terrain.
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