So today, at a red light, i let off the brakes- I feel and hear a loud pop from the passenger rear. My first reaction, whatever brakes stick, happens.
Then it did it again, then again, a bit louder and a more dramatic feeling. It's my only driver as my TT is out right now in the body shop.
My car is making some noise. The first problem is describing the noise. I think of it as similar to the sound one can make with a moist finger rubbing along the top of a wine glass. A passenger last night thought it sounded like those gadgets you whirl above your head to make noise. I think the noise is coming from the rear brakes. The noise goes away if I apply the brakes. It also goes away if I apply the emergency brake.
It doesn't always make the noise, but it is happening often enough, and is loud enough, that I had to switch from the news to loud music on today's drive to work. I have enough pad left on the brakes, but I don't know about the e-brake. I was under the impression that there are tiny drum brakes that are used as a mechanical emergency brake on these cars? I've never peeked inside. I do have 118k miles on the car.
Maintenance history available at [URL] .... where you can see that the rear rotors were cut at 78k. However, I can feel a ridge on the rotor which I think is where the rotor is swept by the pad. I wonder if this ridge is somehow a problem, maybe rubbing against something else (which will doubtlessly turn out to be now damaged and expensive).
The other day, I was coming home from work. After dropping off co worker, an old man pulled out infront of me. I applied the brakes. As car came to stop I heard a loud thump come from rear. Sounded like i was either bumped by a car, or maybe my entire rear end slid up 5 inches. But that's kinda what it was like. Then after the thump, I put my foot on gas pedal, and instead of car moving forward, the engine just revved. No movement, revved to like 3 grand. I let foot off gas pedal. And tried again. Car moved as normal. Then on the way home i attempted the same combo of rather quick brake and then gas. Same kinda thing happened. Not so hard of a thump. But noise from rear followed by the car no moving, just revving up till i stop and then try again. So even tho my story may suck n my explanation my suck more, whats going on? I just picked this wagon up. 01 glx 65k.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2003 passat 1.8t, I just changed my rear brakes about 5000km's ago, and my front pads have a lot of pad left.. the light just came on...? Is it safe to drive still? Is there something I should look for?
View 2 RepliesWhy after disable DRL , When I do reverse only the passenger rear white light turn on. Before both turn on.
View 2 RepliesI am trying to replace the rear light bulb (top of two) on the passenger side. It doesn't illuminate when I press the brake. What kind of light bulb does it take?? There is a removable compartment but I am having a hard time removing the harness where the bulbs are located . I see two clips but I still can not pull it out to access the defective bulb.
View 1 RepliesTo summarize. I no longer get any fault codes but the passenger side DRL is not functioning and my rear fog is stuck on. I do not have a euro switch with the fog option. I set byte 18 to 0x04.
The passenger LED running strip functions with the headlights on though. For DRL function it turns on right after releasing the parking brake but shuts off a second later.
Took Phaeton in late Thursday afternoon, because rear pax window suddenly stuck down (regulator popped/exploded). Because I wanted to drive her to Las Vegas on Sunday, Sep 5, I asked my dealer if the window regulator was not available to be installed before my trip, if they could reset the window to its upright position (closed). The service writer said that this may not be possible, that the window could slip down... The mechanic reset the window up and I was allowed to retrieve my Phaeton, so I can drive it to Las Vegas tomorrow. I'll take it back to dealer when I return (a bit richer?)
Question: driving a long distance with the window up, but the window regulator broken?
My concern: the window will fall and I have no real way to get it back up. With temps running over 100 degrees every day of my trip, I do not want that window down. I have taped the window buttons (driver door and broken window regulator door) so they cannot be accidentally used..
My rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
I had a super loud metallic scraping and clanking noise when I was backing out of my driveway the other night. It was so loud I though my exhaust was dragging or something.
It turned out to be a rock trapped between the heat shield and rear brake disk. I pressed the heat shield away from the disk a bit and the rock fell out. It's kind of crazy that such a little rock caused such a loud sound.
My passsenger side rear wheel hub assembly needs replacing and I am having trouble removing it. I have removed the rotor, the 4 bolts holding the hub, applied generous amounts of pb blaster, and struck it vigorously with a 3 pound hammer. Also, how to release the abs connection.
View 5 RepliesI have recently replaced my stock pads with pbr ceramics,front and rear. now my rear brakes are squeeling loud everytime i back up. i have tried to file the edges, did not work. What to do? change pads?
View 6 RepliesIn February 2014 I purchased a 2011 Honda CRV. I often travel and am gone for about a week. Every time I come back the rear brake are rusted. They have a loud thumping and grinding sound. I immediately took the car back to Honda dealership (2 time) both times they 'shaved' the roaters. I then contacted Honda headquarters to report the issue. They told me to deal with the dealership and take it to a local mechanic for other opinions. Car Talk will be my second opinion. Honda dealership told me that this is just the way it is. This is my third Honda, I have NOT had this problem before.
View 8 RepliesI have a 06 accent sedan and I have been having some issues with the back brakes that were just replaced prior to the motor vehicle being done the end of June. I had the brakes replaced and everything was working fine up until the middle of last week; now the brakes in the back are squealing like the warning plates are rubbing together again (loud high pitch squealing) what could be causing this...I took it back to where I had the brakes replaced and they did a check and said that it did not look like anything was wrong and they asked me when my front brakes were replaced, I told him they were replaced last August when I have a issues with a caliper freezing up and had to replace everything in the front (brakes, caliper etc). So long story short he said to keep driving and see if you can tell if the squealing is coming from the front or the back and come back when its happening or if you can determine which one it is..
View 13 RepliesWhen I lock my 15 Sonata everything seems (sounds) fine, however when I open there is a "loud" buzz from the rear passenger door...............
View 13 Replies1998 olds intrigue, 3800, auto, 4 wheel disc. Spongy breaks (ABS/Trac/Check engine/service engine soon). Friend brought her 'new' car over the weekend complaining about breaks feeling spongy.
First looked at the car and noticed the driver front passenger rear rotors had a lot of rust. They were also cool to the touch, odd after a 20 mile trip. The driver rear speed sensor has been repaired, and was unplugged.
The breaks are not working on the passenger rear, driver left. There is not any pressure at all at the calipers, and the rusty rotors show this.
Put the car on jack stands and with breaks depressed, the driver front/passenger rear wheels spun freely.
checked break lines/fluid, no obvious leaks.
I tried bleeding from the valve assembly attached to the master cylinder, and got only fluid out of the one bleeder, but not the other one. Could this be the master cylinder causing this, or the other assembly?
[URL]...
The bleeder on the right had nothing, the bleeder on the left that had fluid/pressure.
I have a noise that has been driving me crazy for a week now. After some investigation I have discounted a few things. To sum up the noise, it seems to be coming from under the vehicle, maybe the passenger rear. It sounds kinda like a jack hammer and it is loud. People on the street can hear it well! There is no consistency in it. I do not here it standing still and it only appears when I am driving. The speed does not matter.
While driving, it will come and go, it will last from 5 seconds to up to 30 seconds. While driving along, it starts, then stops abruptly without dying down. The speed of the "knocking" will follow the speed of the vehicle. If Im going slow (20 mph) it will knock at a slower pace, thus going 65, it is 2 a second. There is nothing loose, I have ruled that out.
Although it does sound like something loose and hitting. I can feel it slightly on the floorboard under the pedals and passenger side. I have to believe it is the rear u-joint? but that was replaced 2 years ago, and I have never heard of a u-joint making this noise.
I just put rear brakes on my 2008. The parts fit fine but the passenger side runs hot. Very hot after just five miles.
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