Is there any difference in boost between drive and manually shifting with a tiptronic? How about using sport mode?
I saw a video of a guy testing hist mkv with apr stage two and he reported that he was not getting full boost when manually shifting his dsg.
I have a 2004 1.8T AWM auto tranny Passat with APR chip. CIA, Bolt down Coil Packs, Bosch F6DTC plugs, OEM cat to straight pipe to magnaflow muffler, N75J, Forge DV (not the 007).
I installed a MBC bypassing the N75 to keep the spike at 16psi and hold (the n75J i spike at 22psi and hold 12~14), When I did that, the car will go in limp mode from 'over boosting'. I have to turn the MBC down to 9 to keep the car limping out. I love the way the MBC have the boost curve (the N75 is too passive for me). would like to fix this issue.
Also, with the N75 and or MBC, while in the APR 93 oct chip mode, I always get surging in 4th and 5th gear. Any time the boost is over 10psi, it is like I have tons of boost, but the engine is not using it. APR said it is the tranny, the tranny shop said it is the engine or computer, the engine shop said it is the tuning.
The other day I was driving down my street which is a decent grade (you have to curb your tires when parking) ... in normal drive mode at about 20mph with my foot off the accelerator pedal, I get about 10amps of charging as I coast down the hill. (I was in ECO mode, ICE fully warmed up)
For no reason I put the car into B without doing anything else and suddenly I'm getting about 25+ amps of regen. Going back to D instantly put it back to 10 amps.
I haven't explored this option fully, but it seems like the trick is to use B only once ICE is off under 43mph and you are slowing down. This will give you a nice regen boost (and slow you faster) without the brake lights being on. Just go back to D before you start driving again.
Up until this point I found B mode mostly useless.....
Having trouble with car going into limp mode or just not boosting at all. Tried some basic things to fix it, plugs, coilpacks, tune, none have work.
View 4 RepliesWas driving the other day and one of the couplers came loos and I lost boost and went into limp mode. I pulled over, got it reattached, and after that it would only hit 10 lbs. i have a KO4-001 with the GIAC file and it usually hits 20+ and holds 20 lbs. I have a regular code reader and I had a code for the EBC, cleared it, rechecked the hoses, and verified with the flash loader that I was on the correct file, but it is still only hitting 10 lbs. What else I should check.
View 1 RepliesThere ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
Preliminary info:
APR 93 tune
Carbonio Intake
Silicone TIP
I picked up my 20th today and drove it 4 hours home. It has 74k on it, original timing belt. The timing belt kit is in the mail on its way here. Its the first thing I'm doing.
As I was driving it home on the autobahn doing about 150k/hr and I gave it half throttle to pass, I felt the turbo spool and I accelerated past the car. However, when I went to make the next pass, it felt like I had no power. I feathered the throttle a bit and it felt like my car was only getting maybe 3 PSI of boost. Very little actually. I do not have a boost gauge so I can't really say it accurately. As I was driving, i shut the ignition off and turned it back on. After that, I was able to get full pressure back.
I currently own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. It is currently tuned for 15 psi supposedly. I have never seen that number been hit and the highest it will go(only in 4th and 5th gear) is 13-14psi on a good day. And even when it does get there it does not hold the boost what so ever. It will start losing boost almost as soon as it reaches those numbers. Another thing is my MAF is currently unplugged and is making my car throw a code. When MAF is plugged in it cuts out boost and goes into "limp" mode.
Here are some engine mods that may be apart of this issue:
- Front mount intercooler, full intercooler pipe kit
- Oem diverter valve
- N75 j valve
- ACHTUNING tune on 15 psi not sure which stage
- Forged turbo inlet pipe
- 032 motorsports crankcase breather hose conversion
- Ecs tuning
- 2.0t coilpacks and mounting plate
- AWP head
How long could you stay in this mode at 65 mph on a flat highway?
View 12 RepliesI have been battling a big boost upon acceleration at stoplights for approximately 6 months. Now twice I have gone into limp mode and the tech reads: PO700 (Transmission) and PO731 (Gear 1). I just turned over 190,000 miles but only purchased it a year ago. What is the problem(s)?
View 1 RepliesI've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
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My wife hit a deer going 60MPH 3 hours from home. Go back up and pick up the car, it's down on power, I feel it surging on and off boost, hard to drive smooth. Roughly a half hour later I get a CEL. Don't have the code handy, but Boost limit Maximum exceeded. My local VW dealer says its a normal wear and tear item so Allstate will not cover it. The car had the radiator, radiator support, condenser, hood, bumper, grill, passenger fender, timing belt cover and timing belt replaced.
Allstate says not covered, like a flat tire, once I leave the shop, its like a flat tire on the road, nothing to do with the repair. BTW I had it repaired at an Allstate recommended PRO shop. I get it back tonight after 8 weeks of fooling around. Will need to check the actuator, hopefully it's bad. The turbo itself is good, boost fine, no smoke.
This is an 04 Passat 1.8T. I have had 14 cars with turbos, still have four and have never had a turbo go bad, full synthetic oil every 3K and 60 second cool down in hot weather.
Just got the car not to long ago and its not making any boost right now. the CEL is on and its throwing a code for a MAF sensor. what would be your first step to resolving this problem.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 volkswagen passat, front wheel drive with a 1.8t. I was told that I could get more boost out of my turbo without having to do any major modifications. Is it possible or not. Because as it stands right now I am completely lost when it comes to this.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
View 6 RepliesSo Im going to post a series of graphs of boost compared to rpms. I also did fueling and wastegate. Im having an issue with alot of boost flutter and sluggishness
Idle lambda is at -1.3
Partial lambda is at 13.5
Graph one showing specified and actual boost compared to rpm
Got rid of the crappy autozone special sunpro boost gauge and installed the newsouth that bill shipped me.
Only getting -10 vac at idle
Spiking and holding around 24-25 psi and then it barely drops at all but it holds at 24psi for a while which is kind of scary....
I just replaced my steering rack and now I have a strong pull to the right when boost come in.
I am gettin an alignment this week but could an aligned problem cause this?
I transferred my old tie rod ends over to the new set up. They are pretty new.
It's a very similar feeling to when I had a bad control arm bushing. I just replaced a lot if the front end stuff though and this was not happening before the install.
So i let my car cool down for a minute after i drive it and today while it was cooling it would like bog down but it wouldnt die. Ive seen it while at a stop sign or stop light. Only while it was cooling down. It is HOT here so could that be the problem?
View 1 RepliesI have a '98 b5 1.8t fwd Passat with 104k miles on it, that's not making any boost. I've pulled the turbo intake pipe off and spun the turbo and it spins smoothly and free of any shaft play. I pulled the vacuum line from the N75 to the wastegate and it's STILL not making 'any' boost, with the exception of about 1psi when flooring it, and 3-4 psi when the car shifts at WOT into a higher gear.
To me, without the n75 providing the can ANY pressure, it would lead me to believe that the wastegate is stuck open somehow. I'll put my wastegate-inflator-o-matic on it tonight and see if it moves at all when I provide pressure to the can -- but is there anything else I should be looking for or try? After that I would assume I'd need to pull the cat and feel in the exit of the turbo and feel if the wastegate is closing all the way...
I was underneath my car checking everything out before heading to h2o and I'm pretty sure I found a bad o-ring causing a slight boost leak. Oil is seeping through the connection between the flange for the TOP and the turbo itself (see picture). 99% of the time oil seepage between connections is indicative of a boost leak. So I go to the dealer to try to find a replacement o-ring but they told me that they cannot obtain the part and it isn't available anywhere and that they don't even have a part number for it.
View 1 RepliesCar: 2006 Passat 2.0t 6mt - 81k miles. Has lived a grocery-getter life with an occasional romp on the back roads on the off chance the wife and kids aren't with me.
Symptom: Total loss of power (boost?) at at around 3-5k rpm and almost no power to accelerate (10-15sec to get one more mph). Service Engine light has come on twice, but clears with time or removal of negavive battery terminal. At low RPM range power is good, but suspect minor power loss. I'm only partly suspect on that last statement since I only drive it once a week. Idle seems normal, engine sounds normal at idle. Last week I did notice a barely audible whistle when boost is engaged. I have no access to a Vag-Com accept at the dealer.
The car let me down last weekend when I was smoking a jerk in a BMW that wouldn't let me get on the interstate. If it is the PCV and DV, where I can get one? Also, I'm not a tuner. I want OEM performance.