Passat (B6) :: Knock Sensor Code After Valve Carbon Scrubbing Service
Nov 21, 2013
I have a '07 Passat Wagon 2.0T with 80K miles. I just had the carbon scrubbed off the valves (looked like black popcorn stuck in there!) and now I'm getting a "P0327 Knock Sensor 1" light. The motor seems to run just fine (actually much better now without the carbon build-up). I'll clear the code but it will show up again the next day.
What could cause the code? Could it be related to the recent scrubbing (fully removed and replaced the valve cover in the process), perhaps a chunk of carbon floating around in the tubes somewhere? I want to go back to the guys that performed the service but I want to have a good idea of what could be the problem and the fix before I get there.
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So a letter history about the car and this car is a friends car. They owned the car and drove without changing the timing belt when the car hit 109k. So the timing belt snapped and they went out and bought a timing belt and also the timing belt kit with the pulleys and all. They installed it.. didnt turn over or what so ever.
They towed the car to us which we own an auto repair shop. We knew the valves was bent and so we tore off the heads send them off to have them put new valves and etc etc.. We put the car back together for them and now the car runs fine. They pick it up and about a few days later they brought it back due to a check engine. It threw the code:
16711 - Knock sensor 1-G61 Signal too low. (p0327)
now we replaced both knock sensors and when they came and got the car... the check engine light came back one showing the same code. We cleared it out and the next day it came back on showing the same code Again! So now we don't have a clue why that code keeps coming up because we replaced both sensors with a new one. Any clue why the code keeps popping back up?
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What is the possible, or most likely, cause of a Knock Sensor No 1 Circuit Malfunction reading??
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2012 Hyundai Accent. I am getting a po326 code. Wondering if it may be a faulty knock sensor. And po463 fuel level sensor code when I fill up with gas.
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I have a 2012 hyundai accent. The check engine light came on. The code read knock sensor. Before I could get it into a shop, it went off. It didn't come back for 11 months. When it did come back, the same code was read. Again, it went off the following day before it could be looked at and hasn't been seen since. The shop says that even though there is a history code, it would be hard to diagnose since it isn't an active code. I noticed absolutely no difference in performance when the code was active. Both times it went on, the car was idling for several minutes with the ac on, and it came on as i accelerated onto a highway immediately afterwards. However, it has idled like that many other times without the light coming on as well.
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I have a 2014 Sonata with 22k miles. I love this car but lately I've noticed valve rattle under acceleration. Brought this up with service tech and he said I'm not driving the car on long enough trips to keep it cleaned off. When I researched the GDI very little info comes up for Hyundai mainly vw and BMW. I guess what I'm asking is is the only fix for the carbon build up removing the intake and cleaning the valves manually or is there another way.
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So, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.
I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?
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I just purchased a 2006 GS300 AWD w/115k. Started car on lunch hour to find check engine / check VSC lights on. Ran codes to find P0333 Knock Sensor code. Vehicle seem to run perfectly fine, but now that the light is on, it is definity spark knocking under acceleration. This is my first Lexus / Toyota product, so I am unfamiliar with the common problems or fixes. Are knock sensor replacements common?
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I have upgraded my sound system in my car and sometimes i get a P0326 check engine light.
Now i was wondering if its possible that the Heavy bass ( 25/40 Hz, 1200 Watt RMS and 2500 watt Max) Subwoofers could cause the car to vibrate so much that it sets of the knock sensor?
I have read some things about it but i only found that several "Old" cars with OBDII would have this problem? Is that the same on this hyundai accent?
It only comes once in a while after long cruises and bumping.
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I have a 2006 VW Jetta with 92K miles and just a couple of days ago my check engine late came on and when i took to an auto store to check the code, it came as P0332, Knock sensor 2 in bank 2 is faulty. Three things have happened all around the same time and I am not sure if they are related and are just coincidence.1.Check engine light came on.2. I have noticed after that, my car RPM has dropped, idles at about 600-700RPM and when trying to accelerate, it tops at 3000 RPM and feels like the motor cuts off at that point and I have to step off the gas and the car runs ok again, but cant go over 3000.
Had trouble getting on the interstate due to this and thought the car was going to stall, but it didn't. just had to back off the gas and let it run, It did go up to the speed that I wanted, but seems like it wont go past the 3000 RPM point.3. My fuel gauge, drops to empty when it reaches the half way mark on the meter. It stays at the correct level when I start and keep the car in idle, but when I start moving, it drops to empty. When I fill up the tank, it goes all the way to F, and after the car goes the usually of about 190-210 miles, when It reaches the half full level, the meter drops to zero, so have been using my trip odometer to drive after that.
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I got my car in November and I just did a scan and got this code. I don't have a CEL on. I do feel a slight vibration from time to time. It's very light.
Should I clear all DTCs and then run a scan a couple of days later to see what codes I truly have? Or should I address this code?
If yes, what should I do about this code? Do I need to buy a new knock sensor or should I check the wiring first with a voltmeter?
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Code was showing for the knock and climbed under the truck and checked to see if it was plugged in grabbed the wire and to my surprise the wire kept coming and so did a piece of the knock sensor, is this going to affect my truck badly?? worst case?? 97 f250 4.6 standard
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2002 Subaru Forester I took my car to the Auto Zone to read a check engine code. It came back as being a "knock sensor". Besides that I needed a battery, and when the guy was putting it in he said my engine was moving too much and that I probably needed motor mounts.
I was looking at a discussion back in 2010 and the Subaru specialist told the person needing motor mounts is rare for a Subaru, is that true? I'm taking it to a mechanic, what should I expect? how many motor mounts does a subaru have?
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I have a a 02 jetta 1.8 turbo the code po343 came up after new temp sensor,valve cover gasket and full tune up. is it an easy fix the car is misfiring an very hard starting.
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The check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
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It's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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We have a 2007 Passat. The tire pressure sensor broke off at the valve stem. In checking with the dealer, I was told the tire pressure sensor and valve stem are all one unit. My question is if you can use a regular valve stem and attach the sensor to it, or do you have to get the entire unit with the valve stem and sensor together.
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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Just wondering if I will know via a check engine light if when my Diverter valve may act up. I don't really want to add a boost gauge if I can let the onboard diagnostics do the work for me. So if I loose boost will I know?
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The CEL on my Passat came on. When I scanned it with VAG-COM, the following fault code was displayed:
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached
The car also felt like it lost its power in some way, especially when the turbo kicked in. So after some research, I found out that the Diverter Valve was causing this issue. Rubber diaphragm on original valve was made from rubber and was torn. I replaced it with upgraded valve and wow what a difference!!! Very easy to do, great write up link below.
DIY Diverter Valve Replacement for 2006 VW Passat 2.0T
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