Passat (B6) :: Jiggling Going On With Steering Wheel At 30 - 45 Mph Speeds
Nov 14, 2011
I'm not sure what gear is associated with the speed, but lately I've noticed that whenever I hit the 30-45mph speeds I'll start to feel a whole bunch of jigglin' going on with the steering wheel and even through the gas pedal. Once I break out of 45+ it goes away and usually only returns when I'm approaching 80mph or so.
This is coming from a 2007 2.0T.
Could it be something as simple as needing the tires rotated/balanced/aligned? I'm hoping thats all it is. Not really that bothersome but it certainly doesn't make for a smooth ride. I could really tell yesterday when I had about half a case of Sam Adams in the back seat and when I hit 40mph man I could hear those bottles bouncing all over the place.
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Noticed the steering wheel shakes just slightly at highway speeds. Happens to me when I'm at around 65-70mph and above. It's just very slight, so I really wasn't thinking its an alignment issue at all. I didn't know if this was a bit normal for these B7s or what. I've had alignment issues in cars before and this just doesn't feel that bad, but its enough to give me pause.
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I was replacing my front driver's side marker and had the wheel turned all the way inboard to gain access to the splash guard screws (which have to be removed on a golf to gain access to the marker lamp)
Turned the car off not thinking much about it, but now I can't get the key to turn... the typical jiggling of the wheel won't work because it was locked over (no movement) when I turned the car off. Now after trying to jiggle the wheel and turn the key, the key is now stuck in the ignition.
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This problem has been with the car since I bought it in 2004 and lived up north in Yellowknife, NT. Whenever the outside temp got down to minus 20 or so the car would not start. Turn the ignition switch on and all the idiot lights are on, turn the key to engage the starter and nothing. I found out by trial and error that if I let the key turn back to the ignition setting ever so slowly it will come to a point where the starter engages. It takes some trial and error but usually that works. However, if it got to minus 30 even that would not work. I would then have to place an electric heater in the driver's foot well for half an hour or so and then the car would start perfect.
Now I've moved south where it does not get that cold however now the problem is happening even at zero degrees. Yesterday was minus 1 or 2 and car would not start without jiggling the ignition switch around. Today plus 11 and starts as it should. To me it sounds like a mechanical problem with the ignition switch however I don't know.
2003 V6 GLS 4-motion....
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I'm trying to find why my car's steering wheel vibrates. This happens at all speeds regardless or acceleration or breaking.
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I had a problem with my steering wheel shaking at various speeds. Eventually I found a bad inner tie rod and replaced it. The shaking is gone, but whenever I get over 70 mph there is still a very small vibration. I had all 4 wheels aligned after changing the tie rod. Tires are brand new, less than a week old. The mechanic checked my ball joints while doing the alignment and said they were good. Could my struts be causing the vibration? They need replaced, not sure if the previous owner ever replaced them and the car has 225,000 miles.
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My Sc430 with 95k has a steering wheel wiggle . Tires balanced, worn lower ball joint and front end alignment been done. Seems to come and go at various speeds.
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700 miles ago I got new brake pads on all 4 wheels and new rotors on the rear wheels. 700 miles later the steering wheel still shakes when braking at above 60mph speeds. Also there is still a squeak sound coming when braking. Do I need to give the new brakes and rotors more time to adjust or were they installed wrong?
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I bought 2012 Prius ii around 6 weeks ago. From day one I started noticing vibrations in the steering wheel most noticeable at highway speeds. I can describe this as high frequency vibrations that become very very annoying especially if you drive to work for an hour every day. This car has OEM Bridgestone Ecopia EP 20 tires. I took the car to the dealership twice already, they balanced the tires twice and road force tested it twice. They replaced front tires for me because based on the test results one tire was at 16 lb the other one at 19 lbs.
The new tires are at 8 and 10. They keep on telling me that this is by design and is a characteristic of the vehicle. However the Prius I test drove when I was buying it did not have this problem, otherwise I would never buy it. This vibration happens in any mode and I can even feel it at lower speed now though it is not as noticeable. I had a few people including Prius owners drive my car and everyone feels the vibration. With so many Prius models sold I highly doubt that everyone just accepts it as a feature.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord. I've had an issue with steering wheel vibration for the past 10 months. In that time, I've installed new hubcentric rings for my after market wheels, gotten my tires balanced, bought a whole new set of tires all together, and changed my cv axles twice. I still experience vibration in the steering wheel when I get up to 60 mph and all the way up to 80 mph. At times I have had vibration at low speeds, around 20 mph, but that was solved first when I installed the hubcentric rings, and again most recently with this second set of cv axles. Am I missing something or will I have to chase a solution to this problem until I am bankrupt?
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I have a problem with vibration in steering wheel and at speeds of 50 to 60 mph. It also vibrates at idle. This problem did not start until we had new brakes and rotors turn. We also have had tires rotated and balance. They told us we needed new motor mounts. We had them replace and the shake got worse. They replaced the front axles and the transmission mount. I also bought two new tires.
This started out when we took our car to have the tires rotated and balance. The Mechanic told us we needed new brakes, so we took it to get this done. we are now having all kinds of problems as I stated above. Took it to the Honda place here and one person told us it was not worth fixing. I do not believe this. The car has a little over a 115,000 miles on it. I have been driving a Honda since 1992. This car we bought new and I know it has been service.. One person at the Honda place here said he could replace all the mounts and would not promise it would fix it. We have even had one of the new tires replace because they said it was bad.
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My accent just crossed 180K mark. From last year the steering wheel shakes quite a bit at highway speeds ,say 70MPH. It's especially bad when I accelerates . Took the car to a shop, they told me two things, the CV axle of passenger side needs replacement, and the wheel hub bearings are bad(both front wheels). They quoted me $200 for replacing the cv axle, and $400 for replacing both front wheel bearings. Since I don't even think the car worth $600 right now(given high mileage), I told them I'll just do the axle(I know how to do it myself but don't have the time, plus it won't be that much cheaper DIY anyway). They said fine, but if you don't replace the bearings you may have the wheel fly off one day and that's dangerous.
They replaced the axle, and the car drives a lot better now. There's still a little bit of shaking at high speed but 75% of that shake has gone away. My question is, does the worn out bearing causes car to tremble at high speed? I heard other people told me there should be a grinding or loud hawling sound if the bearings are bad, but I don't hear that. I searched the internet and some people say, to determine if the hub bearings are bad, just drive it for 10 minutes then feel the hub. If it's barely warm, the bearings are good. If it's warm to hot, then the bearings are bad. I felt it and it's warm, but not too hot to touch. I tried the rear wheels and those are barely warm indeed.
So from this method it seems the front wheel hub bearings are indeed bad. I wonder how long I can keep driving this without endanger myself. $400 is not cheap for this car and I don't have a machine to press in the bearings myself. I can disassemble the rotor and hub that's not a big deal, but I don't know how to get the old bearing out and the new bearing in. Is there a machine shop that just do the pressing? Or, is there any shop selling the hub assembly with bearing already in place? this way I just remove the old hub assembly and replace it with the new assembly, a lot easier. I searched the internet but can only find pre-assembled hub w/ bearing for the rear wheel of this car. I need the front ones.
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This has happened multiple times but this last time was the dangerous one. I was driving home from work on Friday on the tollway which is very straight but does have some slight turns in it (construction). So I am at highway speeds for some time and one of these slight turns comes up. I try to turn my wheel but nothing happens. I apply more and more force until it finally decides to turn and by that time I am applying so much force, it jerks really hard. If the car didn't finally decide to turn, I would have hit the highway barrier. I am lucky that no one was next to me or I might have hit them.
-This only happens at sustained highway speeds, city driving is perfect.
-It doesn't happen every time I am on the highway, it is intermittent.
-It does not have a bias with regard to direction (left turn or right).
-I have put some Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in my reservoir to add fluid to my system with whatever was currently in there when I bought the car @ 75K miles. Car currently has 130K miles. Is there some sort of write up for PS maintenance/flush? I need to pull the return to drain, right?
-I do have a rubber on rubber squeak sound in the front right when I go over a bump.
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I have a small amount of play in my steering wheel. Very noticeable on the highway at high speeds. The steering wheel shakes in my hand.
1. Checked the tires for balance.
2. Checked the tie rods.
3. Brand new stabilizer bars on both sides.
Is there something I am missing or overlooked.
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2010 FJ Cruiser has an intermittent shimmy that you can feel in the steering wheel at highway speeds. Noticed it not long after new tires. Go around a long curve and it starts, then stays until you go around another curve and then stops. It is as if the wheels have to align a certain way for some harmonic effect. I had the tires rebalanced and rotated. My mechanic said they balanced up very well. Shimmy is better but not gone. Wierdest thing is that when it happens, if I keep my foot on the gas and gently press the brake the shimmy stops and the returns as soon as I let up on the brake. When I asked my mechanic if it could be 2 slightly warped rotors he said the shimmy would be worse braking not better.
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I am feeling a vibrating in the steering wheel in my SUV, particularly at high speeds (the highway). I just had front brakes replaced a month or so ago. But the tires I have were new a year and a half ago, I think. Is the vibrating a tell tale sign that I need new tires? Or is it something else? Could I rotate them and get more miles out of them?
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99 Pontiac Montana.... I feel a shimmy in my steering wheel at all speeds....
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My wife just purchased an 04 w/27k miles in superb condition two months ago. This is a California car that had no mountain or winter weather service.
We live in Colorado & do a lot of mountain driving. At speeds above 65mph going down hill the steering wheel slightly vibrates or shimmies under heavy braking. The car is always heavily loaded.
Original brakes w/ well over 50% lining. I have not put a dial indicator on the disc surfaces.
CV joint boots are tight & no grease leakage.
Tires are wearing perfectly, so I do not think it is an alignment issue.
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This summer I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Nissan Altima, had a bent wheel replaced, and had an alignment done. Everything worked smoothly for the last 5,000 or so miles. I had my tires rotated and balanced recently which created a new problem, a shaky steering wheel most noticeable at slow speeds. I've had a similar problem before and had it fixed by balancing the tires. I took it back in to have them rebalanced, thinking they may have forgotten to do it the first time. They rebalanced them and the problem has not changed at all.
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My Ford F250 XLT (HD) 2 wheel drive has recently developed a shimmy; a shaking of the steering wheel that usually occurs at medium speeds, and seems worse when going around a curve. But since it doesn't seem safe to drive, I dropped by a local shop for a diagnosis. Their thought was that I had a caliper sticking, since it pulled to the left when they test drove it and applied the brakes, and maybe rotors since the vibration indicated warped rotors. Since I hadn't mentioned shaking during braking, I paid the diagnostic and moved on.
Upon leaving, the shaking started up again going around the first curve, at about 35-40 mph. Shortly after that I took it to a dry, flat, unbusy stretch of road, and applied the brakes at about 60 mph, and brought it to a stop in it's lane with my hands off the wheel; no pull either way. Now I have it up on stands, and have visually and physically checked the parts I know and recognize, i.e., ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, etc. I don't know how to inspect gear box, or steering shaft issues, but steering wheel play is minimal.
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So I just got my first alignment done on my gli since I lowered it. Before I got the alignment it had a shake in the steering wheel in acceleration mainly but more often at higher speeds. I was hoping that it would ride like butter but it's still shaking. The alignment was pretty bad before I took it to the shop today but what could the shake be coming from now? BTW I installed Ecs tuning rear wheel centering plates last night and I'm about to install their adjustable sway bar end links because I noticed last week that the sway bar had been rubbing the axle some.
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