Passat (B6) :: Idling On 2500 RPM On Neutral
Jan 11, 2011
I was going downhill. And I accidentally popped the car in neutral. Its a 2.0t fsi automatic transmission. And after putting it back in drive mode. The car went to 2nd gear and jerked the tires. I had to put it back in neutral because it was revving high rpm and it wouldn't switch. After I came to a full stop. The car was idling on 2500 rpm on neutral. I got an intake installed and replaced the pcv valve with one I got from ecs tuning last week. I am assuming I have a transmission problem.
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I'm working on a 93 thunderbird with a 3.8 in it and no check engine lights are on.The engine races at about 2500 rpm in neutral, I changed out the TPS but the idle still was way too high.
My first thought was a vacuum leak and I did find one hose that was rotted away. I then tested for vacuum leaksby spraying some brake cleaner around the intake and all the lines and fittings, but the engine stayed at a constant rpm.
My next guess is the Throttle Air bypass valve.
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I got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
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I have a 2003 T&C 3.6L with tow package, purchased used (privately) with 25K miles in 2006. Since I have owned it, it will occasionally not go into any gear when first started after sitting at least overnight- basically stays in neutral until engine is revved to about 2500 RPM. You can rev it in neutral or while it's in gear. This always works, and the transmission will then work fine until another overnight stay. I have had the transmission serviced 3-4 times (once when it first happened, and then at recommended intervals. The car now has 96K on it, and it has been happening less frequently (in fact, it hasn't occurred in about two weeks). I have discussed this with two Chrysler dealers, and have left it overnight twice, but of course it didn't repeat at the dealer. I haven't been able to correlate when it happens with anything except: it seems to occur more frequently when garaged in Pittsburgh than when sitting outside in Myrtle Beach (I spend time in both places).
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe that I am getting road ready for my son, The engine has recently started idling very high, 2500 RPM at startup. I disconnected the IAC servo and it drops right down to about 900 RPM. I replaced the IAC with a brand new one and it does the same thing at startup, 2500+ RPM. Checked vacuum hoses / tubes. I replaced 2 crack / dry vacuum hoses. Same problem for a while, then idle went down to about 1250. Started to drive it, test ride. while accelerating, seems OK as soon as I take my foot off of the gas, idle goes to 2500 - 3000 RPM until I apply brakes and then it drops back down to 1000 or so. (SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK PROBLEM. I CANT FIND IT, IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 CANS OF CARB CLEANER AND HOURS OF REPLACING ALL VACUUM HOSES.)
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My wife drives a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. Recently the car started idling very rough with rpm jumps back and forth from 1500 to 2500 rpm. The check engine light came on and threw a code for the IAC. I also notice a clicking sound coming from the engine and I can see sparks arching at the coil/plug wire. The arching is happening at the coil with the numbers 1 & 4.
The car is difficult to drive. It shakes and surges and isn't pleasant to drive at all. These issues started happening very recently. The car ran great up until now. We've stopped driving it for the time being until we solve the problem.
We had the car serviced a few years ago and they changed the IAC and mentioned something about a gray wire that we should watch out for.
I'm not really sure what the issue is. I don't know if it is the spark plugs, wires, or coil. Or it could be the IAC or something else. I'm comfortable working on the car myself, but I would rather not try fixing many things if it is just one thing actually wrong.
So far, the only thing I've tried is to spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body towards the IAC in hopes that it would clean it and solve my problems.
Where the IAC is located. I want to try remove and clean it, but I'm unsure of exactly where it it. I know it is somewhere on the throttle body or intake manifold, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for.
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I've had my '05 3.0l TDi since last November and I've noticed a few times that when the engine is hot and its idling in park or neutral after a few seconds it can develop a bit of vibration. Apply some revs, even just a few, and it goes away. Let it idle again and it will come back. Stop the engine for a few minutes start again and its fine for a couple of months and then it'll pop up again. Its not some slight vibration, it s a proper big shudder. It reminds me of my '76 Land Rover and very unlike a rock solid Phaeton!
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My R is starting to make some noise when idling in neutral. It's the stock clutch with 135k on it and its starting to sound like it's a single mass flywheel. Ya know kinda like cogs ticking/slapping more that normal. I've done some searching/researching to find something that sounds the same but nothing seems exact.
No hamster wheel squeaking. It's very subtle, can't hear it while standing outside the car but I can when I'm sitting in it. The clutch pedal feels the same too. I've also noticed that first and second gear make more noise than it normally has in the year I've owned it.
Is this just time to change the clutch and throw out bearing? I'm driving to Denver from Minneapolis next week. Should I park it for the trip?
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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I have a 2010 Accent GS, 5 speed. While sitting at a red light, or even rolling in neutral, the car will just die out. 90% of the time, the car will start right back up, no problem. A few times, though, it would not start right back up.. I put my flashers on, and just keep trying. It eventually starts up again, as people honk and get angry at me, but once a nice guy pulled over and offered to give me a jump and it started right up. I drove right to an autoparts store and had them test my battery, starter and alternator. All came back perfectly fine. There is no check engine light coming on when this happens. There is no code produced. A knowledgeable friend recommended i just change the battery since my car is 6yrs old, 104k miles. He said he had a similar experience and just changing out the battery solved everything. Well, i just did that and it stalled again. That obviously was not the problem.
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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Automatic with about 75k mils.
Car hesitates when pressing on the gas. I have to reach high speeds at a slow rate. If I want to push the car a bit, it will hesitate a lot around 2-2500 rpm.
Changed coil packs with new plugs. Dealer changed pcv valve changed by dealer, recall.
Car is stage 2 apr, full apr tbe, neuspeed intake, forge DV.
Could it be the MAF sensor, the DV, or cam follower failure?
Let me add, car is having horrible gas mileage.
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Came to a stop at a loooooooong light the other afternoon. I popped the AT into neutral, and the engine idle rose to around 2000 RPM, dropped to about 1500, then started cycling in that range. CEL also showed up.
Now, whenever the transmission is in either P or N, if I blip the throttle to bring the RPMs into that range (1500-2000), it stays in that range and cycles up to 2000, drops to 1500, wash, rinse, repeat. Blipping the throttle above 2000 does not change this behavior... as soon as the RPMs drop back to 1500, zoom it goes, right back to 2000.
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Emissions Workshop flashing in the info screen on the dash of my 2005 PASSAT TDI. The car went into neutral and refused to go into gear. Got it towed to the dealer and was informed that it required a software update. It was in the dealers 6 weeks earlier for its 75k. service. I feel ripped off....
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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So yesterday after running an errand I got home, after having dinner I was about to head out and, SURPRISE! The car wouldn't start... The engine doesn't turn, no lights on the gauges when inserting the key, no clicks.... the battery seems fine, as the radio works, the anti-theft/alarm works well, the 2nd key behaves the same way.
This morning, I called VW road side, the tow truck they sent couldn't take the car because it is in a tight spot and we can shift the car to neutral. We tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery without success... What to do??
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I am experiencing a slight vibration with in drive or reverse but not when it is in neutral. I change the spark plugs and checked the PCV. I have the latest model already and I replace the gasket in the PVC. There is no errors in VAGCOM.. What could be causing that? Mounts???
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So lifted my Manual 1.8t B5 onto jack stands to start some serious work on it. Found that lower rear control arm had gone "significantly bad" and the right drive axle shaft had pulled out of the outer CV joint. Needed to warm up the oil before draining it so put the car in neutral and started the engine. Went outside to check on something and WOAH, the right drive axle that had come apart from the CV joint was slowly turning WHILE IN NEUTRAL. The left drive axle that is still attached to the outer CV joint and with the tire attached but off the ground is standing still.
I can grab that spinning drive shaft and it stops but I can still feel it vibrating. Let me reiterate, the left side is doing nothing and the right side spins while in neutral.
Is this normal? This doesn't seem possible. Is it just that there is insufficient friction without the outer CV joint to keep it from spinning, ie. even though in neutral there is sufficient friction on the flywheel from the clutch plate to give torque on the driveshaft. But what I don't understand is how the right one can turn like that while the left one doesn't. It would seem that something else is going on.
I guess a car's one tire can be spinning on ice while the other does not. It is just strange that this is happening in neutral.
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I purchased this 2001 Passat with 138,000 miles on it approximately 4 months ago. Since the purchase I have had the timing belt, water pump and tensioner belt replaced, also replaced the valve cover gasket, plugs, plug wires, back brakes, back rotors, bushings and linkage in sway bar. Now it is making a whining noise when accelerating and when the engine is revved while in neutral. The power steering fluid is between min and max. What this could possibly be? I am about at my end with this car!!!
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On my 2.5 SE auto, it feels like the car shifts into neutral at stop lights. Is this the case? If so, is this cause for concern. I know on my old Volvo S60, they removed this feature because it was causing premature wear with all of the extra shifting into and out of neutral.
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2000 Passat GLS V6 Manual Transmission 102k miles
I was stopped at a light tonight making a left hand turn, I had the car in 1st gear and the my foot on the clutch. I slowly released the clutch and proceeded to make my left hand turn, halfway thru the turn the car made a noise that sounded like a pop (almost as if something came apart underneath the front end of the car and was loose) and then my manual transmission went into neutral. I slowly coasted to the side of the road and had the vehicle towed.
After I had coasted to the side, I tried putting the car into gear and the engine would rev up but the vehicle would not go forward or reverse. I tried all 5 gears and reverse. While sitting there the car would beep and the screen would say "hand brake on" and if I put the car into first this message would go off. The message only came on about 2 times in 5 minutes and never stayed on.
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