Passat (B6) :: How To Test If Check Engine Light Is Working
Oct 18, 2010
What's the quickest way to check if the Check Engline Light is working?
I took my passat to get apr chipped. The shop spent few hours, and even worked with APR, and they could not figure what the issue is.
They were able to upload the software fine, but couldn't figure out which mode it is in, as they say my CEL isn't flashing, and therefore unable to switch modes.
APR got the shop to flash back the original software, and had them do a 'test'. I was told they tried unplugging a sensor, and the CEL didn't show, and made the conclusion that there is an issue with my ECU, which got me worried.
I am guessing they unplugged the MAF, as it is the easiest/closest sensor to unplug. And from what I read, it might not throw a CEL. In addition, APR's website state some B6 Passat Auto only support 1 mode.
Is there any easy way to test if my CEL is working or not? It lights up for a quick sec when I start the car, so I know it is not a fuse or bulb issue. Could it really be my ECU that is faulty? or is my ECU working ok, but only support 1 mode?
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How to clear the check engine light on 2000 Passat 4motion Wagon?
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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I recently bought a Santa fe 2007 Limited 3.3L, it has 101500 miles. The issue is that when i run the scan it has 3 minor sensors that needs to be replaced but my biggest concern is that the check engine light does not come on in the dashboard even when i turn the ignition to on.
I need to know if there is a fuse that can cause this or a bulb in the dashboard that i can replaced for myself or if it is something else.
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I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
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I only drive my car once a month or so to visit family. A few years ago my 12v Battery stopped working in my car. I assume age and just moving my car from one side to the other every morning contributed to this. I got the battery replaced at my local Toyota dealership in Jan 2012.
In early March of this year my 12v battery died again. I jump started my car every morning (with a portable battery pack) until I was ready to drive it a distance a few weeks later. I got about 2 miles and then my check engine light came on as well as my Hybrid System Warning Light.
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However I did get a code for the brake light switch and replaced it. Then the same code happened again and everything started acting up and not working again. The strange part is that even though I got the brake light switch code my brake lights still work. The only thing that stops working is my cruise control intermittently.
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Just bought this wagon with 80000 miles. AC just stop working, fans and all. At the same time check engine light came on. Is it worth fixing or will I be facing thousands of dollars for furture repairs for this year car?
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My check engine light has been on for 3 days i get my appointment with VW and then today i start it up and it goes off. Also, having a problem with very loud squeaking coming from the front bottom left of the engine ?
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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I was running late the other day for work so I had to jump in my car and go with out letting it run first for a minute or two and while on the highway the engine light came on and it has not turned off yet. I am getting my oil changed at my local shop on tuesday.
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Santa Fe 2001 2.4l. How can I check or test a MAF sensor? I replaced the sensor four months ago but now I have the P0102 error code again. I would like to have recommendations before to clean it or replace it again.
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Okay, I bought this car used and the previous owner apparently didn't maintain it. So I spent the last couple months having a new (used) engine installed. All said it's been in the shop longer (by twice) than I've been driving it. On the way home from the mechanic the check engine light came on.
If I keep changing my oil every 2000 miles will it sludge again? Dealer recommended every 1500 to 2000 miles! I've spent 15k on this car so far, and driven it about 2k miles......
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I just bought my Toyota Prius about 3 months. First time I change the engine oil for this car at Jiffy lube and I replace with platinum synthetic oil. After I changing the oil for a week, my has red triangle light, VSC, tire pressure, and check light on. I can not use my cruise setting.My hybrid battery show on the LCD screen charge full very quick and it show the battery is fully charged all the time. When I drive my car for about 15 minutes, it cannot be accelerated and it run like very slow. When it happened, in the LCD screen, the battery was not being charged and did not supply the power to the engine. Then, I had to stop my engine and start the engine again. Then, it run like normally and after about 15 minutes, it run very slow. I feel very sad about this and I think I will need to replace my hybrid battery and transmission.
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Got in the car this morning and started it up. Other than it being -6 degrees out, nothing unusual. The damn check engine light came on. Nothing seemed unusual driving it. Will be checking it tomorrow.
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I have a 2001.5 passat and the check engine light turned on. It just so happens that whenever i put gas in the car.... and try to start it back up, it won't start! it takes about 3 or 4 tries for it to start up.
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I recently got my 40k service done at a VW dealership. This morning, my check engine light came on.
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I have a 2003 W8 and the check engine light came on today for the cam b sensor... The car has had no problems and drives fine, I do not quite get why all the sudden it is on, and before I bought the car, 2000 miles ago the cam sensor was replaced for inspection, and I drove it for 1000 miles, and now the mil is on and it is running a little ruff... Where exactly on the head is it located? which head would have cam b sensor? I really do not think it is bad again.
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I have had a check engine light on in my car for a while now. I am pretty sure that it deals with the disconnection of the vacuum servo that controls the intake manifold's flaps that designate which track the air takes through the manifold. It has been running fine like this for a while under the assumption that because the performance of the vehicle hasn't changed, there is no need for immediate repair.
Here is my new problem which I am trying to determine if it has to do with the above issue. Over the past few days my car has been giving me EPC and ASR lights along with switching to back-up power. I have been on expressways driving 80, i have been going around corners doing less than 20, and it has happened everywhere in between. Keep in mind that when it happens i slip my car into neutral, pull over, and reboot. After that everything is fine for a short while. I stopped at Auto Zone to get a diagnostic, and for some reason, which i did not feel like questioning due to the way the autozone employee was mentally equipped, they did not give me codes, but descriptions.
(1) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 1
(2) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 2
(3) PCM Processor Fault
(4) Running too lean on Bank 1
(5) Running too lean on bank 2.
These are the descriptions for the 5 fault codes. I am planning on stopping back today and getting the proper codes. But would like to get some opinions in the mean time. I've check fuses and relays pertaining to this issue and all have tested ok. Nothing is leaking from my engine and nothing is visibly damaged, except for the vacuum servo arm which is broken (see above paragraph). I feel like the issue is with the ECM (PCM, PCM, ECU, whatever).
Another interesting thing is that when i operate my car using the cruise control, there are no issues what so ever. Possibly an issue with the throttle or its many components?
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After I finally got around to replacing my ABS pump I went to get my smog check done. Passed except I didn't drive enough miles to qualify.The SMOG tech told me to drive 150 miles and come back. I drive the 150 plus miles and within that time my check engine light comes on. I go to the shop and have it reset.
How many miles do I have to drive the car after a Check Engine Light reset in order to qualify for a Cali SMOG Check.
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I have taken my car into service twice because of the check engine light being on. They fix it and say it has something to do with the intake. It is now on for a third time. Obviously they are not fixing the problem. BTW, I have done no modifications to my car.
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