I haven't had to replace my battery yet, but I was looking at my ride, and noticed that there aren't any key holes. So, just how do you open the door with a dead battery??
View 10 RepliesNot like when you leave the dome light on overnight. I mean when the 12v battery has reached the end of it's useful life after 5-6yrs. How do you know it's time? What will my Prius actually DO? I ask because,in this -10 weather we've been having, my truck wouldn't start. It did that "old, dead battery thing" we're all familiar with. Got me to wondering about how my Prius will act.
View 19 RepliesI've had this issue for a while now but is seems to be getting worse the older the truck gets. I've had the battery, and alternator tested multiple times and they always receive passing grades. If the truck sits for a period of several days or more without being started, the battery is sometimes dead when I go to start it up and go somewhere. It is really frustrating because it seems to happen and very random times, when I least expect it.
Sometimes I can go start my truck without any problems at all after a week or so. Sometimes it won't start if I leave it alone for only a day or two. Usually after I jump start the truck it will run fine and start for the next several weeks. Is it possible that there is a short somewhere causing the battery to drain sometimes? Also, there is sometimes a buzzing sound that comes from under the hood when it is warm outside with the engine off and the truck at rest... could they be related?
2 months ago I got my battery replaced when it started dying very often. Now the same thing persists, if I don't use the car for two days the battery dies again. I took it to the dealer and got it tested and the dealer gave me a report saying the battery is good. I have to jump start it every time.
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS A/T
I'm starting to have this problem with my 07. I pulling my garage and the auto lights come on, I shut the car off and the lights will go off after 30 seconds...now every 15th time the lights stay on until the battery dies.....
View 10 RepliesIn reading a lot of the threads here, it seems that my traction battery or inverter is dying/dead? 2004, 135,000 miles.
A couple months ago, got the triangle of death and parked it at my office. Next day, came back and it drove fine. Then, a couple weeks ago, drove 100 miles fine, parked at the house. An hour later I hopped in the car and didn't get more than two miles down the road before it died. Came back a couple days later and it drives/runs fine, battery at 50%+ on the MFD. Had it towed to shop and they haven't had time to look at it, so I'm going to figure it out myself. I don't have a scanner but want to get one.
As described in the thread title, the ICE won't even run, and the traction battery drains down to one bar. If I let the car sit for a day or two, it will probably run, but I know there's something that needs to be addressed. Is it the traction battery, or possibly the inverter?
I called the dealer to do the inverter coolant pump recall, but they said I did it back in 2011. Was the problem identified back then? Or are they lying to me?
I have a 2005 Hyundai Tuscon. If we go out of town, or any time we don't drive the Tuscan for three days or more we always come back to a dead battery. I mean really dead. I mean, get a new battery dead. Since 2005 when we bought the vehicle new, we've had nine—9—new batteries put in. The last one was a heavy duty battery recommended by the dealer.
This problem started after the dealer replaced the OEM radio. We've had multiple checks done on the engine to find out where the (battery) draw is coming from. I researched and found a Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin saying that the problem is from a defective stereo. But my dealer says they can't locate the problem.
We've also had the battery posts cleaned and other things done. The vehicle runs fine and has had few problems except for this nagging battery problem.
Last February I got my car battery replaced. It was less than 2 years old and went dead if I didn't drive my car in at least the past day. I brought it to Sears and they replaced the battery and gave me a discount for the short life of the previous battery.
About 4 months later, it started happening again. Now it's down to only about 6 hours of non-driving. I had the battery tested at Sears, another garage where I was getting other work, and by my father, who has all the meters and is a former machinist.
Everyone says the battery is in good shape, the cables are secure, and the battery is taking a charge. It's a 2002 Toyota Corolla ....
When I start my car it bogs down, dies, & the battery & oil light come on. I am able to start it & rev it up & then go but will die & I do the same then it goes, but recently acts as if it is dying while driving.It started a couple weeks ago while I was driving but restarted & figured it was the battery as it was old & tested badly. I bought a new battery, changed the oil, & air filter for maintenance & it ran fine for a could weeks.Now it is wise than when it started & dies more often.Do you think it could be the plug & wires or alternator?Do not feel like spending a lot of money to go through every part.1999 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L 5 speed.
View 5 RepliesMy wife's 1998 oldsmobile intrigue. i have replaced the starter with a rebuild from advance auto parts, had the alternator rebuilt and installed a new battery. the car runs until the battery dies and then it will shut down while driving. it can be jumped and started but will die again when the battery drains.
View 2 Replies2009 Lexus ES350 79,500 miles
A month ago while waiting to pick up my daughter, I had the radio on for a few minutes while the engine was off. Car would not start while all the electrical worked so had to get a jump. I tested again yesterday by leaving the radio on and the battery dies. Get another jump and start, car starts and runs fine as long as I don't do anything with the engine off.
Volt meter reads the battery at 12.9 when the engine is off. Jumps up another 2.1 when I start the engine meaning alternator is fine too. Just in case, I bought a new battery but have yet to replace it. Voltage on a new battery reads at 12.64 which is even lower than the old one!
Should I still go ahead and replace it?
So i have had a problem with my battery lately and i have done all the steps to try to fix it. First we took out the alternator and battery and had them tested at orielys and the alternator tested positive and the battery tested positive so we had them charge it then put them back in. They told us it is probably a parasitic drain which means something is draining the battery so we detached all my aftermarket stuff like my air compressor train horn and led lights on my grille guard and it ran fine for 2 days without dying. Well this morning i went to start it and it was dead again....
View 9 RepliesProblem started several weeks ago when after starting vehicle the battery light came on and vehicle would not accelerate. Turned off vehicle and restarted and ran fine for a week. Last week same problem, but occured mutiple times at one location. Eventually got vehicle going and drove it homehome Vehicle ran fine the whole time. Now when starting it runs for about 15 seconds (with battery light out) and shuts off. When trying to keep running by feathering the accelerator it has no power and eventually dies. Ran VAG-COM but got no faults.
View 6 RepliesI have an 05 GLI and it makes noises when it's off. I don't know what it is. It's a 4 second hum then kicks off.I don't know if it's a pump of some sort or what. Today when I opened my car door for the first time of the day it did it. My **new** battery dies a lot. I've always thought that I've just left stuff on because I am a ding dong.
View 5 Replies1997 Jimmy, 4.3 ... This has gone on for two years and over two grand. I am slowly going insane. When it starts, it runs GREAT...but if it is moist outside, it is not going to happen...can crank it til the battery dies. I have replaced: spark plugs, fuel pump, MAF Sensor, distributor cap and rotor, stupid poppet fuel injection, battery x 2, and the ignition switch. It used to pull a random misfire code, but now has NO codes. I have been through five garages and four really good at home mechanics. When it is not starting, it has spark at the plugs and good fuel pressure. Last mechanic wanted to do a second fuel pump with the new injection system...I swear I think it is because I am a girl.
View 15 Replies2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
So this has happened twice ( a month apart ) and at very random times. One time just turning around on a dirt road all of the sudden car goes off. Open the door and the dinging noise when you door opens sort of comrs on but extremely faint so I get out pop the hood and I yanked the negative cable off and then retouch it to the post ( there should be a click or mini zap or sound of connection) no sign of connection whatsoever . So im thinking battery incompletely died out for some reason so I go get a jumper pack but b4 I put it on I go and try the touching the negative cable back to post and what do you know, sign of connection and I get in the car and she starts up and acts like nothing is wrong and it has worked normal ever since until sunday two days ago coming home from watkins glen.
I went to the nascar race at the glen and was driving homea ( a lot of driving that day 2 hrs there and back and I was speeding alot in excess of 110mph on a few occasions) car worked normal all day and like 30 miles from home all of the sudden I am doing 60 and all the dash lights come on and the car completely dies sorta like symptoms of an alternator dying but extremely accelerated so I know its not the alternator. So I throw it in neutral (mtx by the way) and coast to a stop. I turn the key to on and try accessory stuff like radio and the car shows no sign of life just like ladt time basically. So I get out and do the touching of the negative cable to post thing again and just like last time NOTHING. .
And so I just sit there for ten minutes scratching my head and thinking and then I try one more time like last time, touch the cable to post and I get the click of connection and get in the car and its been working well since sunday BUT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT BLOODY HELL IS CAUSING THIS!!!! Just a side note my gas gauge doesn't always work properly it will read empty when the tank is full but fix it self and go to correct position it just goes out intermittently but I don't think its related to my possessed electrical nightmare or whatever is killing my car at random
every few days, the battery stops charging and dies.... tested the alternator, and that provides a charge...tested the battery, and that takes a charge... the car runs off the battery or alternator...tested and replaced all wires between alternator and battery... cannot figure out what is wrong.
View 9 RepliesI’ve been having a bit of a problem with my 99 Nissan Sentra that is becoming more and more costly every day. It started with my airbag light flashing, so I pulled over to see what might be wrong. I turned the car off, and when I went to start it again it wouldn’t start. I had the battery checked out and it was fine; I ended up changing the starter and the ignition switch. This worked for a week. Later I left my car running in the morning to warm it up, and it did the same thing, the airbag light came on and the battery went dead.
I jumped it and the battery wore itself out again, so this time I took it to the mechanic to replace the alternator. This worked for a week. This time my wife was driving down the highway, the airbag light came on again, and the battery went dead. After a costly tow from the police impound to my home, it will jump, but the battery slowly dies. The only noticeable problems the car has (aside from the obvious battery going dead) is that there is a belt that squeals when I have the air conditioner turned on and I have an oil leak somewhere.
I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
What is wrong with her car. It is an 05 subaru outback 3.0. She bought it 4 months ago. A week ago the battery died at red light. It tested bad and was replaced. Then yesterday it died at stop sign. Jumped it and died in 5 seconds. Before dying, car would not rev. Jumped it leaving cables on for 5 minutes since battery was almost drained. She made it half mile back to office and coasted into lot. Battery tested good but drained and was fully charged. Alternator tested 7 times to be certain. We bought a 10A multimeter (our town has no 20A).
Tested for parasitic drain. No results. We took Alternator off and tested a couple more times. We took out non essential fuses to be safe. Nothing was left running. There was a phone charger that has been plugged in for the whole four months. She took it out for good measure. Starter tested good. 3 people said battery cables are good. They appear to be non corroded and tight imo as well. They checked fuel pump. All was well.
She wants to go on vacation for the 4th but is scared to try. Mechanic friend said wait until it happens again, go to o reileys and demand them replace the battery as it has to be bad even if testing good. I'm not sure of this is the correct approach, but what else is there? One online mechanic said a voltage test on electrical system is next step but only a few select mechanics even know how to do it such as one that specializes in electrical wiring or something like that.