Passat (B6) :: Horn Goes Off For About 1 Or 2 Seconds When Ignition Is Started
Jul 23, 2007
When I start the ignition, the horn goes off for about 1 or 2 seconds. While engine is on the horn is not operational (I press and nothing).
2006 Passat 2.0T
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A couple months ago my VW Passat started locking itself and sounding the horn spontaneously, and now it is rolling down the windows randomly as well. My key isn't in the ignition when this happens. I got locked out once which was annoying, but now the windows rolling down make it a security issue and I really don't want the windows down in a parking lot during the next snowstorm. The heater quit working last week, too.
The car is only 2 years old and the dealership said they can fix the heater but they aren't sure what would be wrong with the spontaneous horn/window/locking problems.
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just wondering what are the problems typically associated with a long start up. it took about 8-10 seconds from the time i put in the key fob to ignition. it was especially cold and windy today, so i know the cold had something to do with it.
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I have a 1.8T 2001.5 Passat, Tiptronic with an Upsolute chip. I recently had the turbo replaced (under warranty for the same stock one). After the turbo reinstall, the car did this after driving it a while: I ran it hard and spooled up the turbo good a few times, and then parked the car. I would wait 45-60 minutes. When I tried to start the car it wouldn't start for like 8 seconds on the ignition, and then it would start but in EPC mode!
The first time this happened I panicked, drove it home (just to make sure I got home.) I then tried again and it started fine and no more EPC. Also, if I wait much longer like 3 or 4 hours, it never happens. Since the first time, this has happened like 10 times or more. But now, I just turn it off right after it starts in EPC, turn it again, and it works fine.
The first time it happened I got some kind of codes, but I didn't save them and cleared them. I figured since it happened again, I would get the codes again, but they're not there. I took it to the dealer, and of course, they can't duplicate it. The codes where like speed implausible or not there or something but I can't remember now.
The master mechanic told me to vapor lock was not possible because I had no carb, but I seem to remember that my '83 fuel injects 280ZX turbo had a special cooler fan to cool down the injectors in the event of vapor lock after the car shut down so I'm pretty sure this is possible with injectors. I mean, the explanation for that fan was so that if the remaining fuel in the injectors would get so hot after car shut down that it would vaporize the fuel and the pressure would lock up the injectors.
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I just bought this 97 passat vr6 today off of a friend currently don't run, friend told me that 1 day while driving it just shut off, would not start waited a while fired back up got it home now will not start, so i messed with it today took coil pack off had a little crack fixed it, car started ran maybe 45seconds then shut off and just cranks won't turn over, is this due to the coil pack or maybe crank sensor or knock sensor??
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I have a 2006 Odyssey with 86,000 miles. Almost every day the horn completely freezes for five seconds or so, occasionally under fast-moving traffic conditions (and often several times a day). The problem is that the condition is erratic and only acts up when the car is on the road for a while. Because of these preconditions, the dealership has been unable to diagnose or fix the problem, though I admit they did make a fair amount of effort to do so.
Over the course of this year, I believe I have brought the car in four times to the dealership with this complaint, only to be told that they can't find the problem. Last week, in desperation, I took the car to an independent mechanic, who told me he doesn't have the proper equipment to diagnose the problem and that I needed to bring it to a Honda dealership!
I really feel my car is unsafe as is but don't know what to do now.
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Every time that I hit the brakes, the headlights flash and the horn blows for about 30 seconds. I am guessing that it has something to do with the factory alarm? I do not have a key pad. It is a 1997 F-150.
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My 06 F250 horn would not stop blowing after I beeped to pass a guy. Since I have a toggle switch for my factory/air horn, I flipped the switch to center to cut the horn off. While the truck is running if I engage either horn system it blows. But with the truck off and key out, I can engage either system and it works normally, the horn only blows if you depress the wheel pad. I can hear the relay working correctly, clicking and the horn blowing, but only with the ignition off.
What can cause the horn to blow steady only when the ignition is on? It seems to me the air bag switch is working if it activates correctly when ignition off? I've searched until I am blue, but don't find anything positive and I don't want to throw an airbag at it to find out 800 later the horn still blows. Also, is there a replaceable relay for the horn?
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I just purchased a 99 GA SE, 130K, 3.4L and when we test drove it the horn did not work. Salesman said previous owner disconnected it because it "had a mind of its own". Dealer reconnected horn, I brought it home, parked it in the garage and was startled out of my sleep at 4:30 am by the distinct sound of a car horn...full blast and steady.
After a short and panicked look for the horn (couldn't locate it) I opened the driver's door and smacked, hard, the center of steering wheel. Horn stopped immediately. So, I quickly disconnected the battery to avoid further embarrassment and early morning wake-ups, and that's where I'm at.
I noticed when I tried the horn after picking up the vehicle it didn't take much pressure to activate the horn.
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Alarm went off when my wife started the car. Horn and lights started going on & off. My wife disconnected the fuse to the horn & then the battery was disconnected. That stopped the alarm; we hooked the battery back up & the horn fuse was reinstalled. We tried to start the car, but it only turns over. It won't run.
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I realized my newly bought Priuss' horn wasn't working when I tried using it earlier in the week.
Me and my dad and I opened up the hood, we realized that the fuse box was missing the horn fuse.
Dad being a a self taught mechanic, we inserted the fuse and almost instantly, the horn started going off. It was just a constant loud beep.
He then removed the fuse and the horn stopped.
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The horn in my car started to sound like if it was going to catch a cold then it stopped sounding, however if I press the panic button in the keychain it does sound perfect. Where and what should I look for. Is it a relay, the spring contact on the steering wheel?
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We have a 2013 Prius v two that is 5 months old. It has NO alarm system. This morning while sitting in our garage the car sounded as if a car alarm went off. The lights started flashing and the horn went off and on for 10 seconds or so. This happened three times over a period of 2 hours. There is no car alarm in this car.
I turned on the car to see if there were any error messages. We are coming up on the 5000 mile maintenance and the indicator for that was on. There were no error messages.
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I have a 2001 f250 5.4 triton. My cb antenna hole leaked water in cab, soaked my fuse block. Horn goes on and off, radio turns on without key in ignition, truck only starts when key is on and I bridge solenoid, and number 4 coil is not firing. I have let truck dry out, fixed the leak. Everything is bad to normal except starting issue and coil issue.
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I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0 ... .. A few months back the horn started sounding on its' own in the night, so I pulled the fuse... .. Then the Cruise Control stopped working. I have googled references to clockspring failure and these problems... ..
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F250 today at 61300 miles going down the interstate today my vehicle made a strange new noise that sounds like an old timey car horn. The sound started at about 75mph and comes and goes depending on what appears to be air turbulance and other vehicles nearby or goes away as the speed comes back down to lower numbers. Also when the sound is present you can "feel" it in the side handle on the A post. Really weird. Doors were closed all around.
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Our check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
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Got a 2002 Ranger XLT v6 auto w/80k on the clock. When I exit the truck and close the door with the key in the ignition the chime dings for about 10 seconds before stopping. Is there a way to shorten this? ( Other than removing the key.)
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When I start my Audi car it runs on few seconds. However when i take it for dealers they said there is no such problem in battery. So what should i do now, my car is not running properly.
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What would cause my 1993 silverado 5.0 133K miles, to knock for a few seconds when started. Sounds like the back of the engine area.
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I bought a 2006 Lexus 430sc 2wks ago with a service contract that the car dealership says will kick in 30 days after purchase date 3/30. Yesterday the issue start (11 days before service contract starts). Engine stops ~5seconds after I start car. Everything sounds great but the engine just stops. What may the issue be but also should I wait 11 days before addressing issue to have service contract kick in. It's a high end bumper to bumper 3 year service contract.
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