Passat (B6) :: Higher Pitch Of Faster Turning Engine / Car Idling At Higher RPM At Stop
Apr 4, 2007
Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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My front right tire has been squealing when I turn. It also makes a high pitch tone when driving on the Interstate or at faster speeds. (It might be the wheel barrings - is that the same thing as a CV joint?)
Is the power steering fluid found under the green cap, under the hood? Cause I checked that and it was filled. What do I do? I don't like the squeak when I turn, nor the high pitch constant sound when driving on the interstate. Also I just posted a report about really poor gas mileage. Could these problems be connected??
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Engine idling on D and idling on N/P. Mine sometimes runs at 600, sometimes at 650. When I steer, rpm should go higher but it doesn't go.
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I've been hearing a faint but rapid ticking noise when taking faster exit/clover-leaft style turns (usually ~40mph). I think it's the ABS or traction control on the verge of kicking in because if I push it a little harder I do get the flashing traction control light on the dash, but the ticking is happening before that light comes on.
I'll ask the dealer when I do the courtesy 30 day inspection... I'm at the end of the 2nd week of ownership with 200 miles right now, so I'm still getting used to the car. (2013 Passat TDI SEL). Loving the 40+ mpg on my rush hour commute!
I did a search and didn't find anything on the B7 forum that might explain this noise. I don't think it's a CV joint since the car is new, it happens when going around these style turns either way and only seems to happen at higher speeds. I suspect it's just that the traction control is sensitive (or maybe I haven't scrubbed the tires enough yet to get good contact).
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Recently I started hearing a noise that sounds like something that is rotating is rubbing on something. It starts at at about 5 MPH and gets higher pitched as I go faster.
I've had the dealer and another mechanic tell me it's coming from inside the transmission.
The thing is my car shifts absolutely fine and the noise is not associated with shifting at all. It's an 07 and only has 47k miles on it! Could something in the gearbox already be damaged?
When tear the transmission apart if they will be able to run the gearbox and determine if the noise is from the gearbox?
I did make a transmission related mistake that caused the noise to occur. I was shifting from reverse to drive and I think I gassed it a little early and it lurched a bit. What this would put pressure on?
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I only use AC in the summer around here, not year 'round. When I turn it on, I notice that the engine revs higher when turning the compressor, which cycles on and off. It's only a few hundred RPM, but it's quite noticeable and will make the truck surge forward when sitting at a traffic light. The dealer says this is how the AC works on a GX, so I've gotten used to it.
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what could be causing this. The faster I go the higher the pitch sound. It only occurs when pressing the gas pedal. As soon as I let off the gas the noise is gone.
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I have a 2013 Prius c #2. At 62 mph and faster there is a high pitch sound that gets louder the faster it goes. I have asked two other Prius c owner's and they don't hear it. You will need to roll up the windows and turn the radio off to hear this.
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I let my friend drive my 1999.5 2.0L Jetta (Automatic). He attempted a drift around a cultist, when he started the drift the car made it's usual noise. But after the sharp turn and acceleration, the car made a higher pitch noise. It was definitely noticeable. When driving back home the car performed all the same, accelerated and turned as per usual. But the noise still remains. I don't know what is causing it to make the noise, maybe the Transmission? I'm not too knowledgeable when it comes to cars so that's why I came here.
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Initially I brought the car in for repair because the engine was cuting out at higher speeds so they replaced all 4 coil packs and did an oil change.
After 50+miles of driving it was taken home. Later on we tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. The car has power and it cranks.
We then bring it back to the shop and they say there is no compression. I suspect conventional oil was used.
Would the wrong oil cause my problems? 2008 VW Passat Turbo...
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The car is a 1994 volvo 960, it has a rough idle, and its idling high (1500 rpm and higher) its throwing 7 codes, we just replaced the O2 sensor, we reset the computer, and still have issues, (though its no longer running rich!!!)
Here are the codes
1-1-3 injector group 1
1-1-5 injector group 2
2-1-2 O2 signal
2-3-2 long term fuel trip idle
2-1-4 rpm signal
3-1-4 cmp signal
2-3-3 long term ilde air trim
We also checked the idle control valve points 1-2 read 15 ohms and specs say 10-14, for the harness side port 1 read battery voltage (12.3) and port 2 initially read 10.2 then we wiggled and played with the injector wiring harness and it read 11.8.
We also poured fuel system cleaner right into the fuel filter and started it up, and just dumped the rest in the tank
I'm heading out to check those other sensors but what else could be causing these issues, also the temp gauge is reading cold all the time, but the fan kicks on when the car gets warm.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue - Base
This morning my serpentine belt tore and slapped everything for a few minutes and I'll be receiving a new one tomorrow or the day after, but that's not the trouble, I just feel it's related as that is when this problem started. In the last 2 months I have replaced the Cam sensor and interrupter, timing chain and tensioner were in good shape. replaced the ICM, coils, wires, and plugs and used dielectric grease on all connectors, including the cam sensor and new crank sensor, also replaced the harmonic balancer, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, PCV valve, alternator, and a new pigtail is coming for the cam sensor as some of the wires had bare spots. This plug is currently taped and shoved out of the way, not plugged in, and has been for a week, so I doubt it's relevant.
This issue is : The car fires up fine, but has great difficulty idling and stalls too often to drive after a few minutes. At higher RPMs it only misses or misfires occasionally. With the serpentine belt off, the car idles much smoother. Tonight I plan to try tightening the harmonic balancer again, running the with MAP sensor unplugged, again with the exhaust O2 sensor removed.
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Whenever I start my 99 passat a really loud vacuum noise is heard. along with the noise the engine idles higher than normal. when the noise goes away after a couple minutes it idles at the normal speed again... what the problem is?
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Owning a Hyundai. I have a problem and it seems to be pretty common but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Last week my 2004 accent 1.6 manual transmission started running rough. It was idling higher than normal and while driving would not go past a certain rpm (about 2500 if I had to guess,no tach). On the way home from work it was running this way and then started badly misfiring and shut off, when attempted to restart it would not. I pulled the codes with a scanner and got p2400, p0562, and p0121. I charged the battery and replaced the throttle position sensor, still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when I turn on the ignition. Also found the ecu 1 fuse blown, replaced it and continued to attempt to start with no luck, fuse was blown again. Like I said I haven't owned the car long and I don't know much about it. I am not sure where to go from here and I don't know how all these symptoms are tied together.
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2008 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T... I am trying to figure out whats going on with my car for a few weeks now. I have a few things going on and I am not if they are related.
First off I am hearing a odd noise now and then from my engine area. Its so hard to explain, but its kind of like when a plastic bag gets stuck to your car, a fluttery higher pitched noise (and it lasts only a few seconds). It happens now on heavy acceleration (almost always), normal acceleration and even sometimes at start up. Its mostly random and started awhile back but I use to only hear the sound every couple weeks. Now its daily.
Related or not I also have noticed this really bad lag with heavier acceleration, after lagging it then down shifts VERY hard before taking off.
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Recently when I was on a longer distance drive (multiple hours) my car was producing an unusual vibration. It seemed to go away after some time. At the end of my drive I was turning left around a bend and there was knocking sound. One of the boots on the cv joint has been leaking grease so I went ahead and replaced both cv axels.
The knocking is still there. Here are the symptoms:
- Knocking sound when turning left when the accelerator is down.
- Knocking sound is somewhat intermittent when turning, not always continuous.
- The vibration is not always there and is only there at higher speeds, and is made worse when accelerating.
- All of this appears to get worse the longer the car is driven (heat?).
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I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!
But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.
I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..
Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...
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I have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
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This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
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2015 F250 and I'd like to have the wipers stop a little higher on the windshield causing the ice build up. Previous trucks I could pop the wipers off and rotate them and put back on. These are keyed so I can't. Any trick?
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Car: 2006 Passat 2.0t 6mt - 81k miles. Has lived a grocery-getter life with an occasional romp on the back roads on the off chance the wife and kids aren't with me.
Symptom: Total loss of power (boost?) at at around 3-5k rpm and almost no power to accelerate (10-15sec to get one more mph). Service Engine light has come on twice, but clears with time or removal of negavive battery terminal. At low RPM range power is good, but suspect minor power loss. I'm only partly suspect on that last statement since I only drive it once a week. Idle seems normal, engine sounds normal at idle. Last week I did notice a barely audible whistle when boost is engaged. I have no access to a Vag-Com accept at the dealer.
The car let me down last weekend when I was smoking a jerk in a BMW that wouldn't let me get on the interstate. If it is the PCV and DV, where I can get one? Also, I'm not a tuner. I want OEM performance.
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