Passat (B6) :: High Idle / Transmission Is Sluggish And Rough Downshifting
Jan 8, 2011
The notorious 3.6 high idle has haunted me for over a year now. When it first started happening, I thought it was a temporary thing. It has been happening for a year now and the stealership has not been able to diagnose it. It has started happening more frequently now, no matter the weather. The idle overall is just rough. I place the car in neutral sometimes at a red light because the vibration and idel is so rough. The transmission is sluggish, and as i come to a stop sometimes, i can feel the rough downshifts it makes from gear to gear. And just today, after I picked up the car from the dealership from a failed diagnosis of the high rev problem, my parking sensors stopped working. When the system turns on(car in Reverse), there is a steady beep even while there is nothing behind me. Even as the car is moving(below 10mph) the car makes three beeps, every five seconds or so. I do not know what to do. I have a feeling that even if I take it to a different stealership, I will get the same results.
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When driving in Sport Mode I have a violent down shift as the car slows and heads into second gear from third. It doesn't seem to matter if I am going 40 miles an hour around town or 70 miles an hour coming off the freeway. There has been a few times where the jerk is so hard that seatbelt tensioner tightens. Is this a normal aggressive function of the sport setting, or is this something else? Perhaps related to the transmission valve/hard second gear shift issue?
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I have searched a decent amount on this and it seems like there is a whole list of items that could cause these problems. The car is a 2008 Passat 2.0T with the tiptronic. It is the early 2008 so it still has the FSI motor. It only has 53k on it and literally just came out of warranty a month or two before this all started happening.
It all started with the CEL coming on and the went into limp mode. We shut it off and turned it back on, the car went into limp mode again but upon the 3rd restart the car started and ran just fine. Then for a few weeks we just had a CEL (I don't know what code it was because I never scanned it at the time). Now as of lately the car is have a terrible rough idle, and at stops it will start kinda shaking and lurching forward. Sometimes it will also have a noticeable misfire upon start up. Also after going at highway speeds for some time the car will start to produce a squealing noise when not producing boost.
A few days ago I scanned it and these codes came back:
P0110
P0101
P0102
P0104
P0108
P0171
The first 5 IIRC are related to misfires and the P0171 is a lean code.
At first I thought this was the PCV valve because I had read about the lurching and the squeal that someone else had from that but after reading up more on things I am worried the P0171 is from the cam follower.
At this point I am just very tired of hearing my wife constantly complaining about the car. I want to try and figure this out without throwing part after part at it. I can't afford to buy items just to find out they aren't fixing it.
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I've just had my 2006 B6 fixed last monday....something with throttle body , fuel pressure sensor and transmission "flashed" since it was downshifting rough from 5th to 4th. Today while cruising on the highway at first "open gas cap" showed up so i pulled over turned engine off then back on, light was gone, then on may way from work engine light came ON out of nowhere so i have another appointment to have them look at it this coming sat.
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My 2006 3.6 awd has developed a propensity to roughly downshift when braking at higher speeds particularly on inclines. The VW shop cannot replicate the problem, but a tech is driving the car for a few days. What might be the cause of this?
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I have a 98 expedition with the 4.6l 4x4 and it has 158,000 on the dash had a new engine installed at 100,000 it started running rough and sluggish last week so I changed out the spark plugs and while changing the plug I notice oil on the threads of the two rear passenger side plugs. After the new plugs it was smoking pretty bad blueish white smoke. I figured it was the oil from around the threads that had leaked into the cyl.
The smoked cleared after 2 days and ran great for a week. Now its doing the same thing again real rough idle and and its extremely sluggish. I can put the pedal to the floor and she barely wants to move almost like the tranny is going out but the rough idle leads me to believe its and engine problem. I have the check engine light on but can't get any codes. I also tried checking for vacuum leaks by spraying either round the intake and vacuum lines and didn't notice any change in rpms so I'm guess the vacuum is fine.
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I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
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Recently replaced spark plugs and wires on 02 SL1 with 209K miles. Was running rough, rough and high idle, almost died on me driving home one night. After replacing everything, car still wouldn't start. Spent some time on the forums and some suggested a leaking intake manifold gasket, so I changed that out as well as the coolant temperature sensor. Still it won't start. I am getting good spark at the plugs (coil arcs across the posts when plugs wires are off).
Really not sure where to go next with this. I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn on the ignition, and I get a good spray at the fuel rail. Basically I turn the key and it cranks, sputters, and will almost catch, but then not. What next??
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1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
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Just checking in to see where you'd recommend to start looking for a rough idle issue. It seems to get worse once the car fully warms up. I took a vid, and although it may not seem horrible in the video, it sometimes causes throttle lag from a stop and causes the car to get close to stalling when falling from high RPM's. Take a look at the video .....
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Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
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1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.
Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.
Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.
However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?
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My trucks symptoms include a illuminated service engine soon light, sometimes a high rpm idle, and sometimes a rough erratic idle. When a scan was done it indicated the oxygen sensor was defective. The issue is: which specific one (there are multiple oxygen sensors) or how could I check or determine the faulty one for sure. I am trying to economize and replace only the bad one myself if possible. I own a good multimeter, can it determine the bad one? 1999 F-150 4.2 Litre V6 oxygen sensor dillemna....
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2001 VW Jetta 1.8t automatic.
Transmission has a hard time going into 1st and reverse. Also some times hits hard going into third. I have a CEL for a vehicle speed sensor? Was wondering if it's not the VSS but maybe one of the other tranny sensors?
Separate question. Same car has a rough idle issue. Occasionally stalls but intermittently runs normal always has a low idle around 600 rpm. I have a code for an injector on cylinder three.
VSS code : P0725 - engine speed sensor circuit malfunction
Injector code : P0203 - injector circuit open cyl 3
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Even on a warm day, when I "cold start" the car....the revs hang high for a long time....at least a good minute or two. This is my first PZEV(VW) engine though--CPRA--so I'm assuming it's for the emissions? With the intake & exhaust I have on...it's obviously A LOT more noticable.
For the first 10-15 seconds, there is a HUGE sucking sound for the SAI pump and then that shuts off....but then it still screams along at 1,200-1,500 RPM's for another minute or two until it'll FINALLY settle down to idle.
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It happens in the morning or on cold starts. The car has a rough idle and the throttle response is terrible. Its very sensitive and jerky. Could this be bad spark plugs? Its a 2006 2.0T and its had all the maintenance done.
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I have a B5 99.5 AEB and having rough idling. Started the car in the morning seem fine. Later that evening started up again in a warm up idle and then the car shut off. Tried starting up again but took couple of minutes. Pumped the gas piddle started up but looking at the idle gauge needle was bouncing around. I don't think i have an vacuum leak.
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I got an 800rpm rough idle, no serious lack of power, every time after filling up w/ gas she starts slowly (bout 3 secs) and then tries to die. she catches herself and revs from 400-1200 for about a minute, then drives away fine. Getting:
17544 - P1136 Bank 1 : System too lean
16825 - P0441 Evap ECS : Incorrect flow
16684 - Random/Multiple cyl misfire detected (intermittent)
16688 - Cylinder 4 : Misfire detected (intermittent)
Also have: 01039 - Coolant temp sensor(g2) : open or short to plus? (intermittent)
Doubt the last has anything to do with BIG problem, but my temp sensor on ly gets off 0 when i am moving and using A/C...is this going to cause issue now/later/ever?
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I drove home Saturday morning from work with no issues. Car sat until Monday night and as soon as I had to stop at a light it was idling very rough where the rpms were jumping 3-400 up and down. I make it to work and on the way home I experienced the same idling issue along with some misfiring. I scanned and came up with the following codes. I have no CEL. I had my APR flash, Forge Intake, Turbo back exhaust all installed 2 and a half years ago. I have owned the car for four years never having replaced the DV or PCV. 87,000 miles.
10 Faults Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
012403 - Fuel Pump Circuit
P3073 - 004 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 001 -
004243 - Bank 1; Fuel Measuring System 2
P1093 - 008 - Malfunction - Intermittent
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 002 - - Intermittent
000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
000770 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
008825 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 -
000771 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
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My 1.8t is very rough at idle when cold, smooths out when over 1000 rpm and when at normal operating temperature. Code reader says 171 and misfires.
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Came to a stop at a loooooooong light the other afternoon. I popped the AT into neutral, and the engine idle rose to around 2000 RPM, dropped to about 1500, then started cycling in that range. CEL also showed up.
Now, whenever the transmission is in either P or N, if I blip the throttle to bring the RPMs into that range (1500-2000), it stays in that range and cycles up to 2000, drops to 1500, wash, rinse, repeat. Blipping the throttle above 2000 does not change this behavior... as soon as the RPMs drop back to 1500, zoom it goes, right back to 2000.
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