Passat (B6) :: Hesitation When Pressing On Gas At Around 2500 Rpm
Dec 4, 2012
Automatic with about 75k mils.
Car hesitates when pressing on the gas. I have to reach high speeds at a slow rate. If I want to push the car a bit, it will hesitate a lot around 2-2500 rpm.
Changed coil packs with new plugs. Dealer changed pcv valve changed by dealer, recall.
Car is stage 2 apr, full apr tbe, neuspeed intake, forge DV.
Could it be the MAF sensor, the DV, or cam follower failure?
Let me add, car is having horrible gas mileage.
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My 2003 Elantra has multi spark (quad) electrodes? I have a hesitation on acceleration problem. Also feel resistance when pressing the gas pedal. I am going to change the plugs and wires. Just wondering if the type of plugs may contribute to the problem.
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1999 honda accord LX/AT, 156k, 4 cyl, automatic, original owner, been doing all the regular maintenance..
About a year back, got the EGR valve cleaned and then replaced due to some stalls.a month back engine stalled and gave up on highway 10 miles into the morning drive.had to put it in neutral, and push it to shoulder.. ignition would turn over, engine would try to start but wouldn't.shop replaced the IAC.. they didn't say if there were any codes..
All this while, in stop-and-go traffic, where i try to be efficient and keep pumping on thegas pedal and cruising as opposed to braking, i have been noticing adelay/hesitation between pressing on the gas, and the engine responding.sometimes i feel like a lurch, and fear that a stall is coming, but the rpm's pick up and thecar goes on.
If I am decisively hitting the gas or braking, the engine is behaving better!it is when i am pumping on the gas and releasing, that i observe this hesitation.. Also there is a delay in the car shifting into higher gear..
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I have an occasional issue when pressing the gas pedal while stopped or at low speed the car hesitates and slightly kicks. It doesn't seem to happen at high speeds. The auto mechanic I took it to said he is getting a read that it might be the thermostat. My temperature gauge has not moved above normal. The auto guy says they need to start with the thermostat and see where we are with the problem at hand afterward. This does not make sense to me. Maybe the electronic read is right and the thermostat needs replacing, but how can this affect my occasional hesitation problem?
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2001 F150 V8 4.6 Liter... I've been experiencing hesitation when first pressing the gas, stall at idle, RPM fluctuating between 1000 and 500 at idle and loss of acceleration. Had the truck read at autopart store and received a P0402 error and misfire is cylinder 8.
At this point, I've changed the the plug, COP, EGR valve, EGR Valve Solenoid and DPFE sensor and still have the exact same symptoms. I've also changed the plug for cylinders 5,6 & 7 as well. The check engine light is on, went off briefly after changing DPFE sensor, but back within a day.
Given the fact the error code is P0402 and some of the threads I've read, I thought the issue was centered around the EGR system, but I've replaced many of the components.
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The problem started with a slight hesitation around 2500 under hard acceleration. Then it became more pronounced from 2 to 3.5k. The CEL would blink when it happened for more than a few seconds. Eventually the CEL stayed on. Now the car idles roughly with a periodic thump feeling, and any time a load is put on the engine, it feels very rough. I don't have VAG-COM, so I don't have any codes.
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When I drove the car on Monday a hesitation/jerking randomly came out of no where during mild acceleration at around 2500 RPM. The next day it was doing the same thing, but one of the times it made the check engine light flash a couple times then go off. On Wednesday I put fuel injector cleaner and a new tank of gas in it to see if that worked at all, but it didn't. The problem was still occurring then the engine light came on and stayed on. So I went to see what the problem was on VCDS and here are the errors that came up. Also I should mention that on Tuesday my battery died and I had to get a jump from someone, this didn't affect the problems, but I think it has something to do with the voltage errors.
A Summary of the errors is lots of things about "low voltage b+" and "engine misfires".
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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97 f150 4.6 4x4, no check engine light, no missing or sputtering, however when I try to get going I can't get passed 2500 rpm and when it finally does its still kind of sluggish and can't pass as easy. Changed fuel filter. It idles fine and when I put it in neutral it will go up to 5000 rpm if I want.
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V6 A/T ... So to start ball joints, control arms, tire rods are all good as are suspension bushings.
So when driving, if I stop at a light and go to leave theres a slight clunk front the front when first pressing gas or if I am on a hill and pul it in reverse theres often a clunk. Definitely when the cars cold and go from reverse to drive.
Motor mounts?
Torque converter?
There are no shifting issues, tranny works just fine.
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I have an 02 Passat with a passenger side window motor problem. The window works fine from the drivers side and will go up using the pass. side switch, but it will not go down. It makes a clicking noise each time I press the switch and the window sort of acts like it wants to move down. I took the door panel off and checked the switch and the wires going to the motor and every thing looked ok. I checked the switch with a multimeter and it appears to be ok. What else I can check?
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I was going downhill. And I accidentally popped the car in neutral. Its a 2.0t fsi automatic transmission. And after putting it back in drive mode. The car went to 2nd gear and jerked the tires. I had to put it back in neutral because it was revving high rpm and it wouldn't switch. After I came to a full stop. The car was idling on 2500 rpm on neutral. I got an intake installed and replaced the pcv valve with one I got from ecs tuning last week. I am assuming I have a transmission problem.
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First off, I would like to say that I really like how the engine rolls in my 06 Passat 2.0T. Suspension is great and the brake works well...so far. What worries me now is the persistent white noise I get in the cabin when the engine is on, driving or idling, EXCEPT when applying brake.
I took it to the dealer 2 times for this reason. The first time, the rep swore that he could not hear the sound and made a crazy person out of me. The tech wrote in the report that there is no problem. The rep explained that it is the sould of air circulating back (what air?).
So, I took it to an independent mechanic, the one I have been taking my other cars to (Nissan, Infinity, BMW) for the past 5 years or so. He readily heard the sound and identified it as vacuum leak.
I took the car back to the dealer and asked them to check, and it came back to me that the booster performs as per design. It is true that I haven't experienced any loss of brake power yet.
Meanwhile, the sound is getting stronger (and I don't think I am imagining it all, either). Now I have to turn on the radio or CD to muffle the noise.
(Now that my venting and ranting is done...)
Also, if it really is a vacuum leak, does it generate a code? So far, I have not seen any check engine light or check brake light and matchign description appear on the dashboard information console.
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New to VW and to the Vortex. Last night I leased a 2012 Passat V6 SE, which is my first-ever DSG equipped vehicle. I am getting a significant hesitation on take off and also on rolling starts- almost like the power is being cut for half a second or so, accompanied by a little shudder. After that, it goes like gangbusters with fast and smooth shifts.
I understand the DSG functions differently than a conventional auto, but the delay is enough to affect my judgment in terms of pulling out into traffic. My salesperson told me that "they all do that" but I don't recall the issue in the others that I test-drove (may be due to limited driving time, last night was my first extended trip with the car). I also don't recall reading about this issue in any of the reviews of the V6 Passat.
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So, there is a lot happening with the 3.6 hesitation fix lately. Haven't seen anything addressing the 2.0T hesitation. Mine has terrible throttle hesitation - have this problem with the 2.0T and/or looking for any fix? Love the feeling of making a lane change and almost getting smacked in the rear because of the lag ...
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I have a 2008 Passat Komfort Wagon with the 2.0T. At 40,000 miles, yes it only has 40,000 miles, the thing started hesitating and misfiring on me only during heavy load. I ran the codes and it said #4 cylinder misfire. The check engine light was only on during the time it was misfiring and hesitating. Took it to the VW dealer to have them run it again and get guidance and they verified the #4. When I picked up the car the CEL was illuminated. They said it does it when it misfires. I explained that it was not on when I dropped it off and they basically said tough cookies. So I replaced the #4 coil pack and all 4 plugs. CEL light still on, but wasn't misfiring. Next day it began misfiring again under heavy load. Took to Autozone to run the codes and now says misfiring on all cylinders.
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My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T manual transmission is experiencing loss of power/hesitation during acceleration. Occasionally the check engine light will blink for about 10 seconds during this time. My valve cover gasket blew about 7 months ago. I had it replaced along with 2 ignition coils. Since then I have had replaced the other 2 coils and spark plugs because of this recurring problem. I have also replace the mass airflow sensor for the second time. The diagnostic check continually shows misfires in different cylinders for which I again tried replacing the coils. I have also received the codes for "fuel mixture too lean" as well as for too rich. What could be causing this?
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So woke up this morning take kid to school, got about 1-2 miles from home and engine light came on and had to switch to tiptronic because seemed the engine was struggling to move the car and downshift and was able to drive somewhat fine. but at stop signs the car idle and shook slightly then taking off was a bear because it lacked power. I did notice my mpg was reading bout 10-15mpg less then normally.
I going back to bed because I work graveyard and will look at it more when I get up. but the oil looked good and wasn't any engine burning smell. the only odor i think i could smell was almost like coolant. What could be causing this?
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I'm having a sight hesitation @ around 4100rpm when getting on the highway, it is not noticeable in 1st or second, a bit in 3rd, and 4th though. It seems almost like the acceleration stops for 1/2 a second then continues normally.
2007 2.0T FSI, automatic. 71,000KM ( like 40k miles?)
New plugs(problem existed b4 plugs)
new air filter ( K&N Drop in )
new oil & was just seafoamed.
This problem was there before all of that too. What it could be?
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Today I notice a very hard when down shifting and later on the engine started to hesitate and stall, RPM up and down. Accelerate by itself. I was able to drive home but engine light for exhaust system fail. VW is going to tow car Monday morning. 2006 2.0t Car only has 21k miles.
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Having problems with start up? It feels like the engine wants to stall when I start it and as if the flywheel is so heavy. It also like jerks the car. You can clearly tell it isn't a smooth start up. Maybe the starter?
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My 2001.5 1.8T wagon w/ tip (stock engine, no mods) has always had an amazingly long "dead time" when I gas it hard from a standing stop. It's less noticeable when I'm in manual mode, but is downright scary in automatic mode in that I wonder if the car is ever gonna take off. When it does take off, it accelerates just fine and goes through the gears without a problem.
If I'm in automatic mode, no significant hesitation occurs if I first give it a little gas just to get going. The situation arises only when starting from a dead stop. I've read elsewhere (not here) that this model does hesitate on initial acceleration, but it seems more pronounced than in other b5's I've had as dealer loaners. Any way to cut down on or eliminate this?
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