Passat (B6) :: Hesitation And Misfiring Only During Heavy Load
Oct 17, 2013
I have a 2008 Passat Komfort Wagon with the 2.0T. At 40,000 miles, yes it only has 40,000 miles, the thing started hesitating and misfiring on me only during heavy load. I ran the codes and it said #4 cylinder misfire. The check engine light was only on during the time it was misfiring and hesitating. Took it to the VW dealer to have them run it again and get guidance and they verified the #4. When I picked up the car the CEL was illuminated. They said it does it when it misfires. I explained that it was not on when I dropped it off and they basically said tough cookies. So I replaced the #4 coil pack and all 4 plugs. CEL light still on, but wasn't misfiring. Next day it began misfiring again under heavy load. Took to Autozone to run the codes and now says misfiring on all cylinders.
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So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
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Question about my 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe SE. The car has 25,000 miles on it, and just recently like in the last 1,000 miles I have notice when I use the AC, or even the air without the AC the engine reacts very poorly like it is under extremely heavy load. The car shakes and vibrates.
I completely understand that in AC mode, the compressor kicks in, but this to me seems excessive. The car vibrates and the idle drops substantially. AC on is worse that no AC.
In addition, idle or under 35 is worse that HWY driving. The vibration is so pronounced that I sometimes wont turn the AC or air on as the vehicle feels like it is going to rip itself apart.
This is something new and never vibrated this much before the 25,000 miles. Anything I should look into or have the Hyundai Dealer look into? What I may be over looking? Would more stout battery work?
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I'm getting misfiring after the engine is hot, but it only shows up under certain load. For example, if I'm in 3rd gear at about 2500 rpm and I give it some amount of throttle, it wont misfire at all but if I give it just a hair more (maybe past 50% or so), it will start misfiring badly and the blinking CEL comes on. The codes it's triggering are misfire on cyl 1 and multiple misfire.
I replaced the coilpack about 6 months ago, that's why I'm hoping for some feedback before I drop a few hundred dollars on another one. I had the plugs out very recently and they look fine. The shape of the wires are difficult to get multimeter probes on so I haven't checked them.
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I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 265k miles. I use Mobil 5-30 synthetic oil and I drive a steep hill every day and the engine knocks in the summer afternoons when I use cheap 87 Octane gasoline from Safeway or Costco. If I use better 87 octane gasoline (Chevron, Shell) generally there is less knocking. Also during the winter months no knocking even with cheap gasoline.
During summer I can sometimes make the knocking go away by accelerating or decelerating. The knocking is intermittent and generally occurs only during the steepest parts of the commute. The engine might knock for 30 seconds to 60 seconds before its goes away as I try to change the engine RPM.
Unfortunately I am burning some oil at a rate of approximately half a quart every 5k miles. Generally I watch the oil level, but there have been cases where the oil level has fallen below the lowest mark on the dip stick so I suspect I have some carbon build up.
I've read posts where others have used additives like gumout regane and I've read posts that say not to use additives.
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Been having a problem where the alt belt squeals on cold start, under heavy load and sometimes at complete random when cruising at a steady speed.
It doesn't change when my air ride compressors kick on so I'm assuming it's not the alternator. The belt and tensioner are now brand new from VW. The car has no AC, so I am using belt #066 145 933 K (21.36x1264mm). Replacing the tensioner and belt made it a little better but it's still doing it.
I'm thinking PS pump because it squeals loudly when I nail the throttle around corners. Sometimes if I'm cruising and it starts doing it a little shake of the steering wheel makes it stop.
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I posted earlier about a whistle that appeared when I was towing my old travel trailer (6000 pounds). It only happened a couple of times, and I had a hard time replicating it, so I elected not to waste any money with the deductable, and possible additional costs for a non-covered issue at the stealership.
Now, I am towing a larger 5th wheel trailer (11000 pounds), and am experiencing this whistle on every steep grade, while towing. Below are a couple of things I noticed, that had to be, before I would get the whistle:
* It only seems to happen while the cooling fan is engaged, and also only when the rpms reached 2800 and above.
*If the fan was on, but the rpms were turning below 2800 rpms, then it would not whistle. It would, however, after the transmission downshifts, bringing the rpms back up, while climbing.
*If the engine was spinning at 2800 rpms, and the engine fan was not engaged, then it would not whistle, until the fan would kick in.
* It only seems to occur when I am climbing a steep grade, on a warm day. Although, I haven't experimented on steep grades on a cold day...
It sounds to me like there is an issue with the engine fan system, but I thought I would put it out there, just in case any of the diesel guru's out there might know of something else that would cause a whistle like this, i.e., turbo?
Oh by the way, I also think that I have a performance reduction lately. However, I can't know for sure, as I have never towed this much weight with my truck before. I just kind of expected that I would be able to pull to the top of these grades, with a little extra peddle to spare. I have to floor it, just to "try" and keep up with traffic. And I haven't calculated my fuel mileage while towing this beast yet, but WOW, that fuel gauge needle sure does drop like a rock!
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I have a 1991 300 6 with an e40d trannsmission, our 4610 Ford tractor broke down in the field so i pulled it maybe 50 yds with my truck, it didnt like it but it did it. Now my tranny is dripping at a decent pace it looks like from the hole in the bottom of the trans, drove it ten miles home and it shifts fine. What could i have done??
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I have a 2001 chevy silverado 3500 6L gasoline engine.
I have been getting a P0307 random multiple misfire #7 on and off for a few months now, occasionally the P0300. Check engine light comes on when I am going up hills, often under heavy load and sometimes when the truck is cold in the morning and the truck starts to run rough until the code clears, which it does pretty quickly usually. I have replaced coil, crank sensor, cam sensor, fuel injectors. If I unplug the battery overnight the code will be cleared and the truck will be running just fine the next day.
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I have a 2003 f 350 6.0, when under a heavy laod such as towing a 3000-pound trailer up a long hill at approx 60mph and 2000 rpm it intermittently mis fires.The boost gauge bounces up and down and i here a poping sound from the engine compartment.I have had it to several dealer and independent shops but with out the trailer or a heavy load it runs perfectly.They have told me fuel pressure is good and changed all fuel filters with OEM parts.
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Here's the story on my truck. Spits and sputters between 40-60 during heavy acceleration and on rare occasions will jerk/pop while at a steady speed. No engine or wrench lights. I thought it might be the fuel filter and changed that, it didn't work. I also ran two bottles (on 2 separate occasions) of Duralube extreme fuel system cleaner, that didn't work either. So, I took it to the Ford dealer for a diagnostic. They had a hard time getting it to act up but said it finally misfired on #8 and recommended replacing the ignition coil and plug. I did that, still have the same symptoms. So, I thought it might be the fuel injector and changed that. Still same symptoms and ZERO dummy lights.
After several YouTube videos, I thought it might be the TPS and got one. Before I changed that however, I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor, still same symptoms. I finally changed the TPS, but the engine wouldn't start or run at all, no warning lights yet. When I put the old TPS on, it would run. I unplugged the TPS and it still ran but very rough. Now the engine light IS on! Thinking I purchased a bad part, I took it back to O'Reilly's and they warrantied it out and gave me a new one. I had 19 PO codes. I changed the TPS again, and, it won't start or run at all. Put the old one on and it runs. They cleared the codes and told me they think it could be the ECM/PCM.
Why will a new TPS not work? I still have the same issue of hesitation @ 40-60 during hard acceleration. No hesitation during a moderate acceleration.
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Problem description: A loud metallic rattling sound from under the car under moderate to heavy engine load, only when engine/exhaust is/are cold. It is noticeable from within the cabin with the windows rolled up and the sunroof closed. Crack a window or the sunroof and it's pretty loud. The first time I heard I, I thought "this is not good".
This is not an octane ping or valve train noise. It sounds like a coffee can with marbles being shaken in concert which what might be the rapping of a V8 engine's exhaust. I had a Sunbeam Tiger that rapped in the upper rpm ranges and this reminded me of that but instead of rapping, it shakes a can with marbles.
There has been much discussion and speculation as to what causes this. It does seem to occur only with late - 04 and up V8 Touaregs with the "sport" exhaust that replaced the "std"(?) exhaust used on the majority of the 04s.
Observation: I looked very closely at the heat shields, looking for ways they could rattle. On the passenger side (LHD), the heat shield has three main sections:
- Front: around/near the secondary cat (tightly secured)
- Rear: around/near the rear differential (tightly secured)
- Middle: between the two mentioned above (loosely secured)
The three sections overlap a little where they meet. It was very easy to tap on the middle shield and make a loud metallic sound. I put my finger between the two shields (where they meet) to isolate the two metal pieces and tapped again, and the noise was gone.
Theory: The harmonic resonance of the exhaust under load vibrates the middle heat shield and it rattles against the front and/or rear shields. As the shields heat up, they flex enough to provide clearance between each other and the noise goes away. This may be unique to the "sport" exhaust if (and I am only speculating) the heat shields were changed (in design or fitment) when they changed the exhaust.
Experiment: I tried a very simple experiment. I slightly bent the edges of the middle shield (~1/2 inch) where it was coming in contact with the front and rear shields. The allowed me to tap rather hard on any of the shields without them rattling against each other.
Result: I make the tweaks to the shields Sunday night. When I drove to work this morning, I put the transmission in sport mode and ran WOT until it shifted. Normally, I would have heard the sound (very loudly) but it was gone. No metallic sound. Not completely convinced, I repeated the experiment on the way home and, again, the sound was gone.
Summary: It was cool out when I was going to, and from, work (64F) and this would normally be the perfect set up for making the sound. I think that tweaking the heat shield has solved the noise on my Touareg. I am tempted to go back under there and pop-rivet a little brace between the shields so that they cannot rattle against each other again. On the other hand, I may just leave it be and do the pop-rivets if the noise comes back.
Anyway, I was excited to find a potential solution for my Touareg and wanted to share it will you all. I will post back after a while and report how it goes in the long term. Lastly, I really liked being able to put the air suspension in xtra-offroad and get under the car (easily) without using a jack....
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Loss of coolant! I have a 2003 6.0 diesel with 200,000 miles. I put in a new oil cooler and ipr egr delete two years ago also flush the system and added a coolant filter. I filed it back up with the red antifreeze. Now the problem I have never lost any coolant since then and my deltas are about 5 degrees. But the other day I pulled a heavy load the first one since I did the repairs (coolant got up to 220 degrees and would drop back down) when I got home the coolant tank was about a inch low. I let the truck sit about 3 hours and checked it again and it was back at the full mark. Drove it the next day and it's back low about a inch, Any clue what's going on.
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I had to choose the Yukon, as there is no Suburban?
Anyway, I have a very bad misfire in my truck. Lopes at idle stumbles under load. Through substitution, I have tested: module, coil, and crank sensor. I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and upgraded from SCFI to MFI (can you say "expensive best guess"?).
Still getting P-0300, P-0302 and mostly P-0304, using a Snap-on Modis scanner.
Compression tested today: all cylinders between 160- & 170 psi. After this, leak-down seemed redundant.
Back pressure test: 0.5 psi at 2500 RPM, both banks.
Steady fuel at about 60 psi.
I am going to pull distributor (175K miles) and examine drive gear. Not too sloppy at rotor bearing. However, how do I set baseline timing when I re-install distributor? If the distributor is OK, what test or part should I look at next?
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I have a 2000 SD F250, gasser, auto. Last week I pulled a heavy load and developed a tranny fluid leak. The fluid appears to be coming from what looks like a freeze plug on the bottom of the casing forward of the (torque converter?) pan . Is that plug easily replaced by a DYIer. Small leak. 150K on the motor. First time it has leaked. Heaviest load I've pulled.
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I've got a 2000 accent 1.5, and I keep getting a code for a cylinder 3 misfire, when I change the spark plugs, it runs great for about 50 miles or so, then back to square one again. I just changed the coil pack the other day and there doesn't seem to be much of a difference. It has massive hesitation under heavy throttle, and the check engine light begins to blink if it sits and idles for too long. I've scanned it multiple times and it's always been cylinder 3, so it's definitely set on that one... I'm about stumped on what this could be. Also, the previous owner said that after a hot day of driving, the ECU fuse under the hood will blow out, what could cause either one of these things?
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Our Camry has about 105,000 miles on it. Car is well maintained, I change the oil every 3 k or so and the air filter is clean (although it is not a factory air cleaner- it is a K&N filter). Other maint is done as specified by the warranty/maintenance book although the car is long out of factory warranty.
We occasionally pull a 800 lb pop-up tent trailer and just got back from the Sierras after driving up some pretty tall passes with it. Car ran great, got great mileage, temp gauge rock steady. I say this because it is probably the most stressful driving we do with this car. While we live in the city we are retired and the car is not exposed to constant heavy traffic, dust or snow. Mileage seems to have remained pretty steady, even with the hesitation.
Got home from the mountains and a couple days later the car began to hesitate when under load. The hesitation shows up as a slightly uneven surge when the car is going up a hill or when it is cold. About 20 mph the car seems to momentarily stop accelerating, then evens out and upwards of 40 mph I don't feel it at all. The hesitation is getting a bit worse over the last couple days in frequency, but still isn't felt on the freeway. I don't know if the hesitation is related to the recent trip to the Sierras.
I hooked up my OBD II computer to see if there are any DTCs, none shown, even left the computer on the car for a day to see if anything might pop up when the car surged, but the computer isn't seeing trouble codes.
My other thought was "got some bad gas", ran the tank out and put in new gas, fuel injector cleaner and dryer. With one new tank it hasn't worked. I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet.
Tried driving the car in 1st and 2nd gear only and found that the hesitation isn't dependent on what gear I'm in, but seems to be more about the speed and load. In neutral, slowly revving the engine, I don't detect anything that sounds or looks like a hesitation (just watching the tach).
Been reading about problems some Toyotas have had with unintended acceleration but I'm not sure that is my problem. I have to admit I didn't know that my Camry was "drive by wire" and maybe I don't understand it enough. Maybe a "reflash" might be needed?
My sense is that I should go ahead and do the next major maintenance items including plugs, but if I had a bad plug or plug coil wouldn't that show up as a Diagnostic Trouble Code item?
Could this be a bad injector or fuel filter? Wouldn't they produce a DTC? How do I break down the next steps?
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I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
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Doesn't happen all the time but when it does it is obvious at 45 mph. Not there at no load on engine. No code shown.
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My wife has an 06 Mountaineer with a V8 and we have been having a problem with hesitation when the engine is placed under a load. The problem occurs most often when the transmission is in overdrive and the engine goes under a load such as driving up an incline at cruising speed. The engine begins to shudder much like a misfire but disappears when the trans kicks down a gear. The check engine light will flash momentarily but it never sets a hard code that I can read.
I have AutoEnginuity scan tool but there are never any codes. I've driven the vehicle with the scanner hooked up and there is never a misfire noted. The car has 96000 miles with, presumably, the original plugs. I'm aware of the potential problems with attempting to change these plugs. Where to look? I don't want to "hang parts" such as mass air flow or throttle position sensor. I've been hoping that the problem would progress to the point that a hard code would be set but none has yet.
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So I have had my 02' Camry for a little over a year. Love the car, it is a 2.4L SE with a 5-speed manual. Recently it has developed this mystery misfire/hesitation under a load and at idle with the AC on. I replaced the plugs with OEM Toyota Iridium and it seemed to clear it up for about a month, but now has come back. If I start the car and turn on the AC it will intermittently start to miss but not only when the compressor is engaged and it does it every now and then under a load specifically in 4th or 5th gear under a load with lower RPM's (under 2000).
The check engine light is not on and hasn't as much as even flashed on at any time so there must not be any hard misfire codes. I want to stop by Autozone and see if they will scan it to find any stored codes but haven't had time. I would think that if it was a coil pack that it would be a hard misfire. I'm stumped. This car is in great condition...no oil leaks, interior is near perfect (replaced a worn shift knob, and door panel pieces around the window switch). Also car has 160k miles.
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