Passat (B6) :: Hesitation And Engine Light After A Sharp Corner
Jan 10, 2008
3.6 4Motion hesitate after taking a corner - if I take a long sweeping high speed corner I sometimes feel as if the engine is starving for fuel. As I straighten out the car after the apex it comes back to normal operation.
If I take a sharp quick corner the car will hesitate as I am exiting the corner. It is during this time that if I keep the gas constant or give it more gas that the car will sometimes give a violent jerk and the engine light will go on. I have replicated this with traction control turned off.
The dealer could not replicate the hesitation (as they are in town and can't get to speed due to weather conditions) but told me that the engine light came on due to a misfire. They also said they would check the transmission fluid levels as this may have something to do with it (not sure how the engine light plays into that one).
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I have a 2013 F350 DRW, 3.73 gears LS. 25K on the thing.
Today I notice that when I turn a corner I get a groan. At first I thought that maybe the springs are doing it. I sprayed them down really good with fluid film. No change.
So I had my daughter drive the truck with me standing on the rear bumper. It is definitely in the rear end. It is quiet when in a straight line.
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Today I notice a very hard when down shifting and later on the engine started to hesitate and stall, RPM up and down. Accelerate by itself. I was able to drive home but engine light for exhaust system fail. VW is going to tow car Monday morning. 2006 2.0t Car only has 21k miles.
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I ordered a set (to go into the headlight housings, the little corner one). They don't work and I have the headlight out on my dash. I assume it needs to be VAG Com'd? If so, what are the settings?
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Having problems with start up? It feels like the engine wants to stall when I start it and as if the flywheel is so heavy. It also like jerks the car. You can clearly tell it isn't a smooth start up. Maybe the starter?
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I have an 01, early model, AWD Passat wagon, v6, GLX and when I accelerate from a standstill or a slower speed, the car hesitates slightly and coughs(?) and then catches on and accelerate. It doesn't actually backfire or misfire.
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I have a 2006 GS300, just took it to the dealer as the VSC light came on and had engine hesitation. After checking them out, I was told that the engine needs to be rebuilt. I was informed that due to carbon built up on the manifold is causing the problem. How is it possible for a car with just 88K miles to have this problem? Should I had them recheck? Perhaps a sensor?
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This whole time I thought it was a bad or dirty MAF and it's not as I replaced it 3 times. Car hessitetes and throws a ESP light on so now I think it's problem with abs or brakes.
I have engine code:
-16486 P0102 Air mass meter G70 signal too low
I do have a VF MAF harness extension cause used to be S/C maybe that's why the signal is low, then 2 abs codes:
-01314045 Engine control module (ECM) check DTC memory there isn't much info on this but I heard a lot of people replace their ABS control module cause VW says most have short in them but in ECS tuning they don't have one for R32 like R32 doesn't have it. Does R32 have it.
-00495 ESP - sensor unit, voltage supply
I tried clearing all the codes but comes right back followed by a hesitation.
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I just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
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I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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I recently bought a '99 Passat, 3.0l, that is lowered with 19" wheels and low profile tires. The front tires are a little lower profile than the rear ones, if that matters??? I noticed that when I cruise around a corner, slightly quicker then normal, the ASR light comes on and seems to cut the motor. The dealer says that its because of the oversized tires and wheels. Does that make sense? Any way to adjust that or fix this issue? This car will go to my daughter, so I don't want to cause her to get into an accident.
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The car: 2000 V6 4motion
The issue: When this started out, it was barely noticeable and I attributed it to bad tires but now I have new tires and am not sure what's going on. As I turn a corner and accelerate, I feel this quick rumble go through the car; it's somewhat akin to very briefly running over rumble strips on the side of the freeway. It can also happen if I accelerate with moderate force.
One drive shaft was replaced a few thousand miles back but I didn't think it could be that as it doesn't do it at any particular speed or for a prolonged time. I thought it had something to do with the transmission or rear differential but searching didn't turn up much.
My game plan is to get the transmission fluid and filter changed asap. Is this a appropriate action or if I should be sourcing a new transmission ? I just don't know the severity of the issue and it worries me.
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I have a 2008 Suzuki forenza, 125,000 miles. I commute 5 days a week one hour each way. The check engine light came on, then after a day it went off. I filled it up with gas and as soon as I started it up, the light came on again. Then an hour later, It went off. My brother came to pick me up from work, it was on (he notices nothing). Took it to Auto Zone and the code came up Throttle Body. Went to get a new gas cap & air filter, the code went off.
Changed both. (The gas cap was clicking but not staying on.) Drove to the mechanic. They said they cleared the code but do not see anything wrong and to bring it back if it comes on again. For 348 miles, it drove fine, parked it in the drive way. I went to start it this morning to move out of the driveway, the light is on again. There is a sight hesitation while driving; the mechanic thought it might be a spark plug. I have had the car a year. The hesitation comes and goes. I plan on getting the plugs changed next week. I started using Lucas with every fill up. So far have used it 3 times.
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I too suffer from the "suspension" noise whenever running over a sharp speed bumper. Today I took some pictures under the bumper, wow, what a mess! I don't think all the solutions people posted on the other post could solve the problem, it's rather a design flaw than an problem. This should be a recall.
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Here is a video of a blow off valve which gives the sharp "whistle" sound of the 2.0t.. Right now I have the forge full atmospheric BOV...
[URL] .....
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I put a Thule roof rack on my wagon a month or so ago and I have noticed that when we turn a corner or hit/go over bumps that it sounds like the roof is popping? Is this normal? what can I do to make it stop?
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The other day i noticed that when i make a sharp turn left or right i hear a clicking noise. If the clutch is engaged it clicks and if its not then it does not click. It is also louder when i turn right... I am thinking CV axle!
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2003 passat gl; 1.8t w/all new front control arms, replaced to cure suspension noise, now metallic clatter persists, but any (even) light application of brake pedal and noise stops.. it is most apparent over sharp bumps...
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Since I got the car i noticed on considerably sharp or normal RIGHT turns my brake fault goes psycho and says service manual yada yada, well my brakes work fine and so does the emergency brake, i also checked to see if i was low on brake fluid, but it was topped off and no noticeable change in fluid level... could this be problems with the brake line?
Its ONLY on RIGHT turns, never goes off on left turns... Its not creating any problems to my driving just distracting and annoying as hell, it goes off roughly 3-4 times I am driving (depending on how far I drive) ...
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We have an '07 wagon that recently started exhibiting the following: When doing a sharp turn left or right you can hear a rotational shhhhusshhhing sound... shussshhh *pause* shusshhh *pause*.. etc. Its obviously linked to the front wheels since going straight does not produce the sound. Brakes and rotors have 13k on them; dealer has checked out the car and says everything looks good and the bearings are fine.
Could this be CV joints or something similar? Where to look? This is not a thud thud thud (which I have heard before when another car of ours needed new cv joints). Safety is main concern, don't want bearings freezing while driving..
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Trying to figure out what ELSE it could be.
Car just rolled 60K. Only odd thing going on is that the "puddle light" down in the corner of the driver's door will not come on. Ever. Bulb is okay. It won't even come on when the passenger door is opened, which I totally don't get. I mean, if the driver's door lock is toast, what's going on with that? My logic tells me that if the driver's door lock is the cause here, opening the other door would light that light.
No weird alarm behavior, no re-locking after 30 seconds or whatever it is (as though after unlocking with remote that door has not been opened), no missing fuel-pump-priming whirr. The only other thing I've noticed is that after opening the driver's door, all the other interior lights dim in about 25 seconds, rather than however many it is after the passenger door is opened (a bit longer).
My old (MkIV) GTI had the driver's door lock check out when the car was about 5 years old. But it had alarming and locking issues, which are more the classic symptoms.
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