Passat (B6) :: Headlight Bulb Socket Partially Melted
May 17, 2012
I was changing standard halogen headlight bulbs last night and as I was getting the drivers side bulb out the metal part came off with the bulb and I noticed the black plastic part of the socket was partially melted. Sketchy. Far as I know these bulbs have never been changed I bought the car w 3500 miles back in 06. Is there anything I should do besides replacing the melted socket? A part # would be awesome too...
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01 Passat ... The small black square plastic piece that connects to the bulb of my headlight has melted and wanted to replace it. I just don't know what the part is called.
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Unfortunately my HID bulb wasn't secure in the headlight assembly and melted the part that holds the bulb in place in the headlight assembly.
My question is if that part that retains the bulb is replaceable or I will need to replace the whole head light assembly? ( The wire connector is fine.)
If the part is replaceable, What is the name or part #...
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About a month ago I replaced both of the main headlights in my Gen 3. I've noticed since that the light from both seemed a little skewed and thought maybe I didn't lock them back in fully. i finally checked them today and was able to get the left side light straightened out, but when I went to check the right hand (passenger) side one (which isn't working again), i realized that it must have come out.
Essentially the light bulb is shattered/exploded and it melted part of the cable next to it, and is now stuck to that cable. Besides being partially melted, the cable also has some exposed wires. i don't know what those wires do, but I can't imagine it's a good thing to leave it exposed next to a live circuit from the headlight.
See the attached picture. What that cable is that melted and if it's possible to replace it myself, or do I need to take it in?
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So a couple weeks ago my passenger headlight started flickering. After a couple days the bulb was out. I bought a new bulb and opened up the headlight to install and found the bulb melted into the igniter. Ok, bought a new igniter. Installed everything. And still nothing. Checked the fuses and wires, nothing loose. Headlight still didn't turn on. Went to my mechanic and he said it's the ballast. I buy a new ballast and he just called and said the ballast I bought was defective. The light was turning on, but no high beam.
Does the ballast control the high beam? If it's not the ballast, what could be the problem?
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I have a 2003 W8 wagon and my front turn signal bulb went out. I need to replace it, but am having some problems. I removed the high beam cover to get to the turn signal socket, but I am having problem removing the socket. I was able to turn the socket slightly and was hoping I could just pull it back, unfortunately it doesn't seem to want to move. Is there a trick to remove the turn signal socket so I can remove the bulb? I don't want to force anything in fear of breaking something. there has to be a way.
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Over the past year or so I have noticed that when I press the clutch on my 1985 CJ-7 258 that the headlights would get brighter. This happens when driving or just sitting at an idle. This happens only after you press the clutch enough to take up the usual 1/2-1 inch of play in the clutch pedal. When you release the pedal, the lights dim slightly. Another thing that may be related---over the past few months, it has been a bit sluggish to start until, finally, it wouldn't start at all. I looked at the battery and the cable connector on the negative battery pole is partially melted and ran down onto the top of the battery. What the problem might be? I'd hate to get a new battery and just have the same thing happen again.
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Coming home from the shore and turned of the air but not blower. No speeds at all. Fiddled with it until I got to a rest stop. KOEO, tapping the blower did nothing and swapping relays did nothing. 40 amp fuse and inside #22 ok. Had some time last week and discovered that power to blower was intermittent. Pulled the resistor pack plug and it was partially melted and upon removal of resistor pack I could see it was toast. Replaced that and pigtail and still got intermittent blower and intermittent voltage at blower connector.
Days go by with only a chance of it working but noticed it turned on more when I started the truck with the blower motor switch turned on. Maybe bad contacts somewhere or maybe loose connector in harness I thought. I had been meaning to replace some burned out cluster bulbs with new LED's, so I bought a motor switch and did both items. Left the front dash part off because nothing changed as far as the blower was concerned.
I downloaded the schematic to end the frustration and see the power going into Mode Selector switch, black/yellow. My test probe gets nothing through insulation with KOEO. Pulling the connector and probing the contact of the blk wire and I get blower all speeds but no light glowing from test probe as if I just grounding it. I have to add that 1/2 the time I got not blower and 1/2 the time I did, so It was intermittent there as well. Doing this again several times while restarting the key to run and still the same until after about 8 times, I finally get a light on the probe, probing the wire while its connected and I get it now with it disconnected and all seems ok. I have blower each time for the last dozen restarts and I cant make any sense of it.
I just have a feeling this good heat isn't going to last. Should I replace the Mode Selector Switch? It seems the relay coil wasn't energizing but now it is. Last week I shot the relay seat with contact cleaner and replaced it with new napa one out of frustration.
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I plan to replace my Halogen low beams with xenons in a 2003 b5 (v6 auto 4motion). Can't figure out how to remove the shroud over the power steering reservoir to provide access to the driver's side lamp - the passenger side looks pretty straightforward.
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They sure don't make bulbs like they use to and whats with the high damn prices for halogen bulbs.
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I am lost on how to change the headlight bulb on my girlfriends 2001 passat. I am wondering do i need to pull the whole headlight out to do it?? or just take the bulb out.
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Replaced both bulbs (left and right even though only left was out) with fresh H7s and my left headlight still doesn't work. so i thought, maybe fuses, but manual only references fuse #5 on both left and right fuse boxes as headlight control - but for XENONs only. Since i don't have HIDs, there is no fuse in spot #5 in either fuse box. Any other fuses i should check that i may be overlooking in the manual?
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Where can I buy the bulb and what is the model number/size of the bulb? My headlines aren't customized or fancy. It's regular. I need to replace the right/passenger side. And how do you replace it? I'd like to save money. I read somewhere that micro clamps are necessary (for 2003 model at least) because it's hard to get in or out? If there's a DIY tutorial with pictures, that'd be great... I drive a 99 1.8 Passat...
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About a month ago i installed the rear fog in my 06 TDI. I used all the proper stuff ( VW wire, 1156 bulb)
Well yesterday i finally got to use it while driving on the interstate during the reminisce of tropical storm Barry. well all remain good until i stopped off at the mall with my wife, got back in the truck and proceed back home when MFI prompts me to check lights and little icon lights up... well today i check it and its the rear fog. The bulb had melted into the red lens and exploded.
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My passenger side headlight bulb stopped working, neither in high or low beam. Does this point to the ballast being the issues? I've never dealt with HIDs before so not really sure of the common problems.
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I had a low beam bulb go out a month ago on the driver side. I bought some silvania silverstars to install on both sides. The drivers side went fine but as I installed the passenger side the inside reflector housing came loose, apparently popping off some spring clips inside the headlight housing. The passenger side headlight assembly now pointed towards the ground 10 feet in front of the car... I tried to adjust the screws to bring the light pattern back up. No joy.
Anyway I messed and messed trying to get the reflector housing to fit back on the spring clips. I ended up having to pull the bumper apart and the whole front side of the car to totally remove the headlight assembly. Once I got it out I found these little ball/socket spring clips and was able to put the assembly back together.
Now my issue is I have lost track of the adjustment screws and where the headlights should point. Any formula such as, "park your car 10ft from the garage door on the flat level. The low beam should be 30 inches off the ground on the bottom and the 40 inches at the top. The beam should be 50 inches from the center line of the car" Something like that so that I can get my headlights back to factory settings.
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I recently melted (due to my own ignorance) the backshell that holds the low beam light bulb in place. I can see that the backshell is removeable since there's it looks like there's 3 screws that hold it in place. The headlight would have to be baked apart, but I already know how to do that. My question is: is there anywhere that sells this part, or does the housing assembly have to be bought whole? I was also looking at the spyder lights that claim they are projectors, but I'm wondering how they compare to regular OEM output. This is for a hybrid btw
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I have a RX330 and recently noticed that both the RH and LH outer tail lamps bulb sockets are melted.
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Changed check engine bulb. Changed bulb socket too and check engine light still won't turn on in on position nor when I start the truck. Its a 1999 explorer.
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I have a 1997 Explorer XLT. The high beam have not worked since I got it and now living in Virginia they are needed to pass inspection. When turned on (pushed forward) lights go out, high beam indicator comes on. When flash to pass (pulled back) lows stay on and indicator comes on. It does not have auto lamps.
What I have done:
Replaced MFS
Verified power from GRY/ORG wire on MFS when turning high beams on.
Verified power across fuse #33 when switch turned on.
Had bulbs tested, Good.
No power on high beam wire at the bulb socket.
The only thing I have not checked is what several people have referred to as a "splice" I think someone referred to it as S111? Where this is physically located or am I going to have to start the chore of tracing the wires?
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One of my headlights burned out.
I was looking at ECS and saw ES#1059.
Just want to make sure that this is the right bulb.
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