Passat (B6) :: Hard Downshift When Decelerating From Higher Speeds
Mar 3, 2008
So I've had my B6 7 months now with no major problems (other than a blown head light bulb, which was repaired under warranty) - until now....
So when I'm decelerating from higher speeds (55mph +)...say for a stop light or to turn....around 30mph....my car occasionally shifts down hard. Not enough to make me stop driving and call a tow truck but definitely enough to make me to notice.
It's only when shifting down and it's just started in the past month or so. Before that the car has performed beautifully...shifting like silk. My car is a 2007, auto 2.0T with almost 20k (had 4k when I bought it). It happens when I decel slow or have to stop real fast. It seems like there's no rhyme or reason to it.
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Every now and then (more often than not) when I am slowing down in my '05 GLX Passat, the transmission seems to throw it's self rather harshly down into first gear.
So, I'll be slowing down from an exit ramp off a highway to a traffic light and right before I come to a complete stop the car will jolt its self into first.
Is that normal? It happens more when I am slowing down at a quick rate, but when I am gradually slowing down, it usually won't happen.
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When driving in Sports mode only there is a hard downshift from 3rd to 2nd and or 2nd to 1st gear. It is very apparent when stepping on the brake to slow for a turn, the transmission downshifts causing the car to lurch forward (just like if you were to downshift badly on a manual). My car is a recent build 3/07. The car is undriveable in Sports mode at city speeds.
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My 2006 3.6 awd has developed a propensity to roughly downshift when braking at higher speeds particularly on inclines. The VW shop cannot replicate the problem, but a tech is driving the car for a few days. What might be the cause of this?
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Initially I brought the car in for repair because the engine was cuting out at higher speeds so they replaced all 4 coil packs and did an oil change.
After 50+miles of driving it was taken home. Later on we tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. The car has power and it cranks.
We then bring it back to the shop and they say there is no compression. I suspect conventional oil was used.
Would the wrong oil cause my problems? 2008 VW Passat Turbo...
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My girlfriend has a 2002 passat 1.8t with the tiptronic tranny... its not throwing a cel but while driving in regular drive mode it seems to have problems downshifting... not all the time but sometimes when you get on the gas and the tranny downshifts it slams* the whole car...
The only thing i can describe it as, is being in a manual car and just dropping the clutch in a lower gear with out giving it some gas to match the rpm's... brought the car to vw dealers and such but all say nothing is wrong and it is "normal"...
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I've been hearing a faint but rapid ticking noise when taking faster exit/clover-leaft style turns (usually ~40mph). I think it's the ABS or traction control on the verge of kicking in because if I push it a little harder I do get the flashing traction control light on the dash, but the ticking is happening before that light comes on.
I'll ask the dealer when I do the courtesy 30 day inspection... I'm at the end of the 2nd week of ownership with 200 miles right now, so I'm still getting used to the car. (2013 Passat TDI SEL). Loving the 40+ mpg on my rush hour commute!
I did a search and didn't find anything on the B7 forum that might explain this noise. I don't think it's a CV joint since the car is new, it happens when going around these style turns either way and only seems to happen at higher speeds. I suspect it's just that the traction control is sensitive (or maybe I haven't scrubbed the tires enough yet to get good contact).
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2011 Corolla S, the RPM's drop by couple hundred suddenly when easing off the gas pedal. This is more noticeable at speeds of about 60-70mph. I got it checked out under warranty and the dealer said it is normal as the car shifting out of overdrive.
They may be correct in this as it is the speed around which the overdrive comes into play but it just does not feel right, although it may be related to the overdrive, they should have a fix so that the car slows down gradually, not suddenly.
I have read other TS-B updates which resolves the problem of fluctuating RPM's at steady speeds or the RPM not dropping when letting off the gas pedal, however my issue is slightly different in that the RPM's drop suddenly and then jumps back up again. I wonder if that same TS-B flash will resolve my issue.
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Recently purchased an '05 GLI (my second mk4) and it has the stock RCs and Eagle F1 tires. They are good on tread, wear pattern, and pressure, but seem to be making an awful lot of road noise, especially at lower speeds and decelerating to around 20 mph. as I read in one post "it sounds like a semi-truck". When I test drove the car it was still in winter mode and there were no noises or pull and so I do not suspect any mechanical issues.
It does not result in any real vibration that you can see in the wheel, but you feel the buzzing. the steering is straight and true as well with no pulling left or right. IT'S JUST LOUD!! lifted the front end and shook the front wheels. the bearings seem nice and tight with no wiggle. I was going to remove the tires and rotate, or put on the spare to see for a diff, but the BBS tool for the center caps is a POS and I couldn't get them off. So ultimately I'm looking for some vortex advice on this noise, its causes, remedies, and and anything else I should be looking for.
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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Having problem with my car (2001 Elantra GT) - over the last month or so it's been occasionally making a very loud (not but consistent) grinding noise coming from the front of the car when decelerating at low speeds. The noise sounds like gears slipping over each other but cuts in and out. It's pretty loud and not a nice noise to hear! Sometimes it makes the noise when I brake firmy but not until I reach lower speeds... mostly it's just when coming to a stop, but it did it once last week when I was pulling very slowly out of a parking spot and not even braking.
As it's become more frequent (going form maybe once a week to several times every car journey) I have started to feel something in the brake pedal also, like there's something kicking it from behind. I took it to a mechanic and had to pay a ton of money to get a broken front left ABS ring replaced (it also had the front right ring replaced in May), and within 2 minutes of driving away from the place the noise was back. Before I spend even more money that I don't have on taking it back for extra diagnosis.
I'm told that this is almost certainly the ABS system that has a fault even though the ABS light never shows except when I start the car, and I've taken the fuses out of the ABS in order to confirm that it is. I haven't heard the noise after a few days of driving with ABS unplugged so I think we can be reasonably sure here. Is there anything that I can check myself or test (I'm not very handy when it comes to cars) or can you tell from this information what it's likely to be? Other things that I've noticed with the car which may or may not be relevant are:
- the warning lights for brakes, ABS and TCS are all lit with the fuses for ABS1 and ABS2 taken out. I take it this is normal for all 3 to illuminate with the fuses out?
- since unplugging the ABS I've noticed a slight metallic squeal from the brakes as if the brakes are worn down. Didn't notice this before I unplugged ABS though it may have been there, not sure.
- sometimes when going over a speed bump or just a minor imperfection in the road I hear a clunk in the front of the car and feel something move in the underside of the car. Happens mostly at lower speeds also, but not if I go over the bump really slowly.
- in the fuse box when I took out the ABS fuses I noticed there was a bit of minor melting/brown burn marks on the top of the connections marked (iirc) ECO3 and ECO4 on the diagram (large white connectors). Is this anything to be concerned about?
- sometimes when I have air coming into the car through the air vents it will become significantly warmer for a few minutes, then slowly go back to normal. Can't think of any circumstance that links the times when this happens (eg. speed, weather etc).
- the oil pan has a leak which is on the list of things to fix when the car works properly.
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Is it normal for the car to shudder when downshifting at low speeds. I have had the computer "reset" once before when this happened and the dealer said I needed to drive more aggressively so the computer would "learn" my driving habits. I honestly am more interested in good gas mileage, so consequently I do not blast off from stops. Service manager said I needed to push it a little harder. Is this BS or is there some software adjustment that the dealer can make?
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My 2004 V8 egg is currently at 111,000 miles and I'm starting to have problems that are really cause for concern. Since the blue book value on the Touareg is worthless and I've got it paid off, I might as well keep it until the wheels fall off of it. Anyhow, on to the problem at hand ...
When driving on the interstate at high speed somewhere around 80 - 90 mph and you push the accelerator to get that extra bit of speed out of the downshift so you can pass or just for the heck of it, the transmission starts clunking, LOUDLY, which of course causes you to let your foot off the gas. The clunking continues for about 5 - 10 seconds until the car has slowed down a bit.
I can still get the car up to speeds of around 110 mph (my wife tried it just about 15 minutes ago on our way back from Florida), but it has to be done gradually as to keep the transmission from downshifting.
Around town the car responds fine. Occasionally it will have a hard shift, but I can't find a reason or pattern to that. Fifth gear also works fine in city traffic, I've used tiptronic to keep it in 5th and I've also watched the main display change from D4 to D5 to D6 and back again without incident.
I'm too afraid to take the car up to 90 and then engage tiptronic and downshift to 5th. This transmission has had its fair share of problems. I'm on my third stepper motor, the forward transmission seal had to be replaced and then later the hydraulic pump had to be replaced. There are no noticeable fluid stains on the belly pans and there are no stains on my garage floor, so I doubt its leaking fluid. Can you even check the transmission fluid level in this thing?
Other than the transmission problem, the Touareg is behaving fairly well. (Knock on wood) It still rides nice and I've learned to put up with the little electrical anomalies that happen like the blue strobe backlight compass (it's just dancing along with the music) and the lights switching ON in full daylight (with the euro switch installed).
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I really do love the Phaeon and experienced a hard downshift from 3 to 2 when slowing at certain speeds. The trans is very smooth on the way up but if a let it coast down to zero while applying light brake pressure I get a hard shift from 3 to 2. It is currently at the dealer for service and they have checked everything and state I should just watch for it. They checked all the TSB's, fluids, etc. I wouldn't mind if I knew this was normal for the Phaeton.
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I just bought my new 2010 Prius the day before I went on a 300 mile trip out of state. Dealer showed me the eco mode, which sounded like a good idea to me. Drove on the expressway, about 70 mph, decided lots of power was not necessary and I wanted the best mpg so I put the car in Eco mode. Drove great for about 250 miles, then all of a sudden, I began to lose power. Fortunately, I was nearing a rest park. Pulled in, was there long enough to take care a Rest Park business, started back up and car ran fine. BUT I did not use Eco mode. Question: When should I use this mode and when should I not?
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Just hit a fantastic Minnesota pot hole. Have a slight shimmy now at higher speeds, feels like its from the rear. Don't see any obvious dents in the rim, what else could I have bent back there? I'm wondering if this is psychosomatic and our roads just suck right now or if I really damaged something.
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My 2010, 4 cyl. auto started giving me hard downshifts awhile ago, when cold. Mainly going from 4 to 3, and 3 to 2. I had the tranny fluid changed a few months ago at 56,000 miles, but no difference. So, that left me with the dealer and this is their diagnosis:
Updated ECM and TCM and hard shift still present. Vehicle will require new PCM (TCM?) to resolve problem.
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Ok so the brakes are new and for some reason at higher speeds, i feel the pedal vibrate as if its a bad rotor....gonna grease the pins and pads this weekend to see if theres a diff. But what gets me is that it Squeals as if the pads are shot as well in the front.
The title problem is that when i brake its smooth ish until 10 MPH where then it feels like the pedal goes to MUSH and i hear an ERRRRR sound as the car comes to a stop. it almost sounds like ABS/ESP while im sliding to a stop in the snow.... Expect there's no snow.
I don't have a high tech phone to record the noise. It never used to make this sound and i feel there is an actual problem.
I am gonna try flushing the brake system with new fluid, take the front brakes off and re grease everything. yesterday seemed to be the day my dash decides to light up like a Christmas tree...
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Getting some lateral movement when on straightaways at higher speeds, it's minimal but feels like the whole car is swaying a little side to side. The suspension feels great otherwise and cornering is accurate. My current setup is:
- Bilstein Sport Shocks and Struts
- Neuspeed Rear Sway Bar
- H&R Front Sway Bar
- Stock on the rest
I think this started when I added the front sway bar but am not sure, had the rear on long before adding it. Would upgraded sway bar end links work or make this more noticeable? Thought about trying to swap the stock front sway bar back in but that one is kind of difficult to get to. How to remedy this?
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But i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.0 turbo engine and just under 60,000 miles. Recently, I began noticing that at higher speeds (60+ mph), the whole car would periodically shake rather violently.
I took it to the dealership, where they informed me that I have:
1) three bent wheels
2) both CV joints loose
3) right inner tie rod wear/damage
4) something wrong with a "coupler" that I did not fully understand
Two questions: First, other than the occasional pothole, I haven't had any collisions with this vehicle. For a 60K mileage car, is this normal?? I've never had such extensive damage with a previous car.
Does that seem right given the problems listed? It is admittedly way more damage than I could've imagined.
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