Passat (B6) :: Fuse For Interior Lights Keeps Blowing Out
Jun 9, 2009
My interior lights, including mirror lights and overhead interior light keep blowing my fuse. This is the 3rd fuse that's gone in a month. I am out of warranty finally. Would it be safe to upgrade the 5 amp to a 7 or 10 amp fuse. I am not about to chase down a possible short through my headliner/dash...
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I got Corolla 2012. Dome light fuse 10 amp is blowing off as soon as you put it in. Light bulbs checked seems it is not a problem. Maybe relay?
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The door latch is broken so i need to change it, but i am going on a day trip to Quebec. Now, when i drive with the lights on there is a buzz, the same buzz when your door is open when you drive. I looked at the fuse diagram on that little card but I could not Id which fuse to pull to stop that wretched noise.
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Every time I replace the fuse(under the hood) it blows almost immediately and no interior light work. When on all doors and overhead lights do work so I don't believe it's one of them shorting. Even tried bigger fuse.
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The tail lights on my car keep blowing the fuse, I can't find a short or anything that suggests a problem in the wiring, it's a 7.5A fuse, it blew a 10A but seems to be working on a 15A. How much trouble is that 15A gonna bring me!!
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First of all, its not a faulty brake light switch. I just found out that my rear brake lights have been out. I went to check the fuse and it was blown. I've replaced it but the second i touch the brake pedal, it pops again. Things I've tried...
I checked the wiring for any exposed wiring and i didn't find anything.
I disconnected the entire light assembly from the connectors on both sides and the fuse still blew.
I'm suspecting a bad ground, (as there was a point when the lights would work, even when i touched the pedal, but as soon as i pop the trunk open, the fuse would blow.
Where the lights are grounded? Is there anything else i should check?
Pics for views....
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1999 Mercury Villager Estate. The brake light wouldn't illuminate. Found that the brake light fuse (20A) was blown. Put another in and it blew as I was inserting it. Figure there's a short somewhere, so I've disconnected both brake/tail light units in the back, the towing light connection, and have even completely disconnect the 3 brake light switches under the dash (yes, 3.... 2 directly attached to the brake pedal and one attached to the e-brake). Still, when I insert a 20A fuse (which is what is called for), it immediately blows.
Since I've disconnected the brake light switches, it seems to me the short can't be past that on the way to the back of the vehicle. Maybe I'm wrong though. It seems the short must be either between the switches and the fuse box, or somewhere between the fuse box and the battery. Unsure if the wiring routes through any relays under the hood, but I'd think it would at least have to go through one of the relay boxes since that's what eventually gets directly connected to the battery. I've tried using my multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance on either side of the space where that fuse goes, but I'm unsure what to expect from a reading like that, so those results are inconclusive.
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I have a 2003 Accent and I'm having a problem with the brake lights not working. The tail lamps work when the night lights are turned on so it's not a bulb issue. The brake lights keep blowing the fuse. Brake lights will only work with a fresh, new fuse but only works for about a trip, give or take and then its blown.
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Since last summer my truck keeps blowing fuse 26 and then I have no reverse lights. If I replace the fust its ok for a bit but blows again the same day sometime. The book says its the fuse for revers and overdrive. The overdrive button on the tree shifter stops working too but the truck does not seem to be revving any higher so I think the overdrive itself is fine. I can't find the short but its got to be shorting somewhere...
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My 2000 Passat 1.8T is being evil again. Fuse 15 keeps blowing and I can't seem to find where the short is... however, its stuck at my work. Its a pretty big short, the fuse sparks as soon as I put the fuse near it. BIG SPARKS. Any way to start it without that fuse in?
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I have 1999 ford f250 superduty 5.4 v8 I noticed that my tail lights were not working I replaced the fuse as it was blown break lights worked until i cranked up and applied brakes. I replaced fuse again an checked brake lights they worked fine until i cranked truck and applied the brakes i did notice the wires were hot at brake pedal switch when they worked while not cranked. I replaced the cruise control release switch I was told that may be the problem since cruise didn't work. it fixed the cruise control but as soon as i pressed the brakes fuse blew again.I replaced brake pedal switch didnt fix it.
I then noticed a little smoke under tailgate i looked and the wire coming out of connector was hot while brakes applied and not cranked. i disconnected that wire put a new fuse in and brake lights worked in center light and passenger side without blowing fuse driver side however does not work. Because I disconnected the brake light wire to driver side green wire. When I reconnected the driver side brake light wire fuse blew.
So I have it narrowed down to driver side brake light. here is my problem. I have checked all the wires that i can see for bad or frayed /worn naked places i have found none I can get to the wires beside gas tank running the rail to check but it is doubtful that it is spot as nothing is rubbing along there. Could it be a relay somewhere? can i just run a new wire from brake light? if so where to i connect to? Is there a wiring harness i can just buy and replace the brake light wires from brake light to power source I have ran out of things to check on my own...
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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The fuse marked #14 which controls the starter and the windows keeps burning. This first happened about 3 months ago and I took it in to a shop which charged me to check all the wires just to tell me that all the wiring was insulated properly and to let me know incase the fuse blows again to keep a spare at all times. Today it happened again and when I replaced the fuse it blew even before I could properly install it and blew 4 fuses in total.
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This issue came on suddenly. I unplugged the license plate lights- fuse still blew. I don't know where the wire harness is for this group of wires going to these lights to check for frayed or melted wires. I don't see any damage any where. I am severely limited for funds for a mechanic so I need to try and figure this out first myself. Looking for pictures of how I can traces the wires through the car?
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My 2005 f350 reverse lights just started to not work . So I checked the fuse and it was blown and every time I put new fuse in it blows, where to check. Sounds like a ground issue am I correct .
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Need to know if the little icons on your interior 'dome' lights illuminate red when your instrument cluster lights are on? (Just like the power window and dash vent icons..) Audis do, but I've never seen a W8 Passat at night to be able to tell.
Looking for a pic of your interior roof lighting? (Not the center console one near the sunroof control...that of course lights up and shows icons.) I'm looking for the ones towards the rear of the car.
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My wife's 2013 Passat started blowing hot air. I checked the fuses and they are ok. I looked at the sensor switch for the AC on the passenger side of the engine compartment and it looks like the wire caught on something and frayed/cut through. I don't see where it went through to fix. Finding info on this car is a slight challenge. The owners manual doesn't even have a map of the fuse panels.
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, the lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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I have interior lights at my feet and the passengers that are on at night. Anyway to turn these off?
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No interior lights work, so I checked the fuse # 14 according to the manual. Fuse is good, and the hot side of the fuse socket has 12+ volts. I pulled down the main interior light switch that's housed with the sunroof switch, and there's no voltage there at all.
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