Passat (B6) :: Front Engine Mount Broken - 2007 2.0T Sedan Crank But Won't Start
Nov 20, 2013
I have a 2007 Passat 2.0t Sedan. My wife broke the front engine mount this morning and now it will crank, but will not start. Put my code reader on it and it is throwing camshaft position sensor, misfire cyl. 4, fuel rail pressure low, and Mass Air Flow sensor codes. It looks like the insert of the mount is wedged against the belt. Would the engine mount being broken cause any of these codes for some reason? and would the mount against the belt cause it to not start?
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My 2.0T Passat sedan will not start for 3 weeks now. It is at a dealer and they seem to be unsure what to do for it. I see there is alot of this issue with the 3.6 wagon, but is it a growing problem for the sedan as well? My service advisor indicated to me that there are several others at their shop with the same problem.
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My 99 Passat 1.8t broke down on me last night... my front motor mount is missing and my motor snaps back from time to time but last night i think it went back all more than normal and as soon as it snapped back the motor cut off and won't turn over... it will crank and crank but not turn over. i looked for any loose wires or anything possible that could be out of place and couldn't really see anything out of the ordinary... There are 3 sensors right next to the power steering reservoir that aren't connected but don't look like they were connected, need to identify those sensors.
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1090 Lumina Sedan 3.1 ... First time it had starting issues Recently. About 2 months ago my lumina's engine would die when i pushed down on the gas pedal. After 2 days of trying to fix the issue it wouldn't start at all, i replaced:
TPS
MAP/MAT Sensor
Fuel Filter
None of these worked so i sent it to a shop, they replaced:
ECM
Multi Port Injection (All 6 Injectors)
TPS (even though i had just installed a new one)
Serpentine Belt (it broke when they were test driving it after the Repairs were done)
The car would not start even after they replaced the first 3 parts on the list, so the tech looked further at the engine and found frayed and open wires, on the bottom near the front side passenger door, he repaired these wires and the car started and ran.
The only issues i had after their repair was a rough idle while braking and/or when i was at a full stop, the rough idle went away after a few days of driving.
((Current No Start Issues))A week ago i had what i am guessing is a few electrical issues: Speedometer Twitching and then dropping to nothing while driving, temp and oil light popping on and then off, when the engine was at a good temp and the oil was fine when i had checked the day before.
I went out a few days ago to run some errands and on my way home i turned a corner and when i put my foot down on the gas pedal the car just went "Put-put Put-put" every time i pushed the pedal more than a 1/4 of the way down. i reach a stop sign and being i was in the middle of nowhere and no one was coming down the road for miles i braked slightly and went past the stop sign halfway through my turn the engine died and i coasted to the side of the road, i got out and checked the engine, i had coolant not a whole lot but enough, then i checked the oil and it as far as i could tell it was at the add line even though it had been fine a few days before,(there has been no indication of an oil leak).
I rechecked the coolant and it looked like there was more in there than there was a few minutes before but i couldn't be sure, i was able to get the car restarted and headed towards home (about 2 miles away).at this point i was able to get the car going at around 25-45mph on the next sharp corner i turned the engine died again so i restarted and kept going, it died once more right before i reached the driveway but i was able to coast the rest of the way, once i parked the car i turned the engine off and tried to restart it a minute later and it started again so i left it be and called someone to bring me some oil, when they got to me with the oil i put some in and and it would not start at all.
- I checked one of the spark plug wires and it is not getting any spark.
- The ground terminal on the battery seems to be stripped
- The battery / altenator / starter---- All read to be between 12.15 and 12.36 volts
- The head lights, instrument panel and such still turn on properly.
I'm at a loss here, it was just in the shop 20 days ago and now it isn't working again. I would prefer to not have to put it back in the shop, if it might be something i could repair from home.
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I have a Hyundai accent 2007, I guess the brain box is faulty, the engine will crank fan roll etc but won't start at all, can dis reset work for it at all ...
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I had my ST coilovers installed a while back. I love the ride, but a really annoying squeaking/groaning sound developed several weeks ago from the front strut mount area. The noise is heard at low speeds as I roll down the road (most likely high speeds, too) and sounds like its coming from both sides of the upper strut mount area. If you lift up/push down on the car, you can also hear the sound.
I purchased a set of 034 Density upper strut mounts from AMI Motorsports in hopes of eliminating the sound, but the sound got worse!! I still do not have a resolution. At this point, I'm thinking about putting the stock strut mounts back in, as the sound wasn't near as bad with the OE mounts in place.
I've lubricated the sway bar bushings and installed shorter end links (thinking the sound may be sway bar related), but the noise is still there. I even disconnected the end links all together - sound is still there. Could this be faulty coilovers? I tried to file a warranty claim through ST - they don't think their strut is faulty, and even if they did, I'm having a hard time with warranty coverage (long story). If it's the struts, then why did the sound get worse when the new 034 Density upper strut mounts were installed? Could it be faulty mounts?
At this point, I think it's either the mount or the strut, as I did not experience any issues prior to the coilovers.
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About a year ago i notice this vibration and took it to my local lexus shop they stated that my engine mount is bad. bought the mount from lexus and change and vibration is still there...,my question is am i the only one that is having this engine vibration problem or this a common problem for the 06-11 awd.?
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Two years ago a mechanic told me that my rear differential mount was broken - hitting the floor board. He told me this was not dangerous - just annoying. This is a car I rarely use but now considering using more. It currently has 170000 miles on it driven in the mild climate of California. Just what is involved and what should the cost range be?
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
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6.0 .... Have a code Po3o4 Cyl 4 misfire. I pulled the valve cover to remove the injector and found the right half of the rocker mount and rocker arm laying in the head. What may have happened?
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I have a 2009 toyota camry le 4 cyl with 170000 miles. I had my rear main seal replaced because there was an oil leak. Now after I got it back from the shop, there is a oil leak near the front motor mount and my engine had gotten louder when i accelerate. also it smells like paint or something inside my car. what did the shop do?
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So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
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I have a 1999 cadillac Deville that my mechanic says needs a new front strut mount. My symptoms are mostly in cold weather a very slight groan when parking the vehicle or turning into my driveway. It seems like it happens when the steering wheel is on its return back to center and it can be felt slightly in the wheel and heard as the sound a zip tie makes when pulled together with a slight groan. The car has been recently aligned and rides pretty good but sometimes can be a little noisy over bumps.
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My 2006 AWD LTD 500 has about 52000 miles on it; a slight rattle/clunking noise is intermittently heard on driver's side in engine compartment. Took it in to dealer who says motor mount is cracked and front stabilizer bar joints are worn and both need replacing. Car has only been driven on highways or for short trips (3-4 miles) and has had no impacts nor been driven over rough roads or run over any potholes or such. Should the motor mount be damaged? At 52K miles?? Never heard of such a thing. Ditto, the stabilizer bar joints: worn out in under 60K miles? What can I do about this? Who seek relief from? Ford warranty is, of course, over, and supplemental warrenty will only cover motor mount replacement but not stab bar. Are these parts routinely wearing out at such an early date that repair shops can reap the rewards???
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Just had control arms all replaced under warranty and it's still making chattering noises in the front suspension on broken rippled surfaces same as before ?? Front shocks were also replaced 6 months ago ...
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For some months, I've heard squeaking noise from passenger side suspension. Sound like it's from shock & spring on bump road.
This video sound is very similar : Squeaking Noise, Front Driver Side - YouTube ...
I looked at my suspension. and found rubber bushing is broken. Driver's side bushing is normal.
Is this noise related to the broken bushing?
Is it easy to replace the rubber by myself?
A guy said ATP AT-205 reseal will fix this noise in Youtube video. Is it true?
How To Fix Squeaks In Your Car - YouTube ....
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So I got a steering problem and it's got me going crazy. I have a 06 g35 sedan lowered about an 1.5 inches. It's been about 5 months since I lowered it, lately I've been herring clunking noise in front suspension, not all the time but only sometimes when I turn. The other day my steering got really stiff and when I turn the steering won't return to the center. My Power steering isn't making any noise and I'm good on fluid. A lot of people say my ball joints but don't they usually make a lot of noise when they go bad ?
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My 2007 Passat Wagon has a weird problem. Sometimes, it failed to start engine. The only signal on the panel is the red battery sign. I need to reinsert the key and try again. It does not happen every time.
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I've got a 1988 Honda Civic Sedan. 151, 000 miles. Runs great,except when I have to stop for gas or I pop the clutch maladroitly to get going and kill the engine. Then it won't start up. It used to do it once or so every five times I stop to gas up. I don't drive it much and have to re-charge the battery every month or so--even the new battery. It started this herky-jerky thing last summer but the tow guy convinced me it was a bad gas problem. A gas additive seemed to clear it up, but not the starting problem.
Just last night I recharged the battery,let the engine run 15 minutes or so the next morning, then shut it down and tried to restart it; turned over but wouldn't start. In general, when it cools down about an hour or so later, it starts fine. So engine heat seems to cause it.I've giving up trying to gas up at the cheap stations. Instead I go to the local station two blocks away so I can push it aside and come back later to get it if it stalls. Could this be something simple I could fix?
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I have an Passat B6 2006 2.0 TDI, and my girlfriend has an Golf V plus 2007 so there is a lot to write for...
But my first question is: How to change the struts on a 2006 B6 sedan...
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