Passat (B6) :: Flange Welded Now Got CEL?
Jun 29, 2012
Well, I had my flange welded rather then spending 1000$ or more on a Cat from VW but now I'm throwing an OX code. Would the broken flange cause this? It seems like a rather easy repair so I can do it myself, but should I worry I have a bad cat now? VW checked the codes and said they can't fully diagnose the code because I had the flange done so they aren't sure if the cat is bad. Should I just replace it myself and see what happens?
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My wifes car started leaking gear lube in the driveway. I traced the leak to the passenger side output flange seal. At first I thought the cause was a bad CV joint but when I tried to shake the axle, I noticed the whole flange moving...How can this be repaired? Does the whole tranny need to be removed or just the output pod?
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Swapped a new oil cooler and welded Egr shut. Truck ran fine the first 3-4 times I started it except for exhaust leak at the y-pipe/turbo connection. Tried to start it today and it started then ran real rough, blowing whit smoke. Now it will not start at all and blows whit smoke. The only codes I'm getting are egr codes that I've always had due to having the 05 and up intake elbow and the egr turned off via sct. What could be the issue?
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I recently removed my timing cover due to a coolant leak and found the cover was cracked. I had it welded and reinstalled but i did not remove the crank sensor from the cover while it was being welded. Now the engine starts but shuts right back down. Do the welding may have damaged the sensor and giving me this condition? 1997 4.2 ....
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its cracked and its leaking i was tld its 210 dollars to replace it... what is the part number for this??? or is this not that bad of a deal?
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I think its a flange that connects to hoses, they want to charge me 140 to repair. would this be something i can do myself?
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The TigWig runs great, tonight on my way home from work the MFD tells me to stop and check the coolant level. I stop and check the level and it is below minimum but still some in the expansion tank. On the trans side of the engine there is coolant on top of the transmission. I return to work to top off the coolant, everything is back to normal. The temp gauge never exceeded normal operating temperature. Half way home low coolant warning is displayed again. Temperature still never above normal. I top off the coolant again. It seems the Tiguan is burping coolant out of a flange or sensor port. It burps and then reseals. Mileage on the TigWig just hit 148k.
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2005 jetta gli 1.8t automatic ( i know flanges are different from automatic to manuel) just recently found the leaking coolant flange. Can I change the flange without having to drain the coolant out of the system. my coolant is new because i recently had the timing belt/water pump etc done so its new coolant and i do not want to flush the system. also will i have to "bleed" the system if i just pull the flange of and replace it if that is possible.
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Just changed the engine oil on the 2012 TCH. I didn't pay close attention when I took the larger O-ring off the plastic canister and when I was putting a new one on, I wasn't sure where it fits.
There's a wider notch at the bottom of the threads. The new O-ring (Toyota Genuine) was a little bit lose fit in this spot, but this is where I put it as there seemed to be a angled bevel at the base of the filter mount where the canister fits into the engine. I did oil the O-ring and the bevel on the canister mount on the engine with new TGMO 0w-20. It was tightened to 25 Feet Lbs as listed on the plastic canister, but I could hear the friction with the O-ring. No leaks from what I can tell after the fill.
Then there's base of the flange on the plastic canister that sits flush to the base of the engine. The ring fit tight in this spot but then would be pinched between the engine and canister flange such that the canister flange won't make contact with the engine at all. I don't think this is where the larger O-ring should have gone.
Any pic of where exactly the large O-ring sits on the plastic canister?
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I have a 99 vw jetta the coolant outlet flange nipple became brittle and broke...its the smaller 1/2 size hose not the two larger ones. Not sure how much coolant actually flows thru there and want to know if i can drive it a couple miles to a shop without it hurting the engine. I believe it's bone dry but don't know and i didnt want to add water since it's 32 degrees COLD. Don't want the water to freeze. The part comes in this weekend ...how far can i drive , with water no coolant....(vw coolant is expensive).
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I have a problem with my 2005 gti 1.8t , I had a issue with my cooling flange leaking, I changed it yesterday refiled it with g12 and distilled water took the car for a test drive about 20 min in see the temperature go up, no steam or water leaking any where, turn on the heat notice no hot air from the vents,turn on the ac no cold air, and the fans are not turning on. Everything worked the day before I did the coolant flange, am thinking is this possible because the coolant temperature sensor broke? fans will not turn on at all even if it overheating. If I leave the radiator cap off the coolant is spiting out of the overflow expansion tank don't know where to start looking for some pointers. Would bad thermostat cause the fans not to turn on?I think is impossible that the fans and the thermostat broke at the same time with the fact that everything worked the day before..
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Can I take off the output flange on the tranny and use a slip joint, with out changing the tail shaft?
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when I bought my 2003 gti 1.8t it had a small exhaust leak, I decided to investigate today and found that the downpipe flange and turbo flange was rattling around, there's almost 1/16" of play and it's making a rattling noise. I can't tighten the nuts on the studs any more but that might just be from them being seized in place. I'm getting a new gasket and studs and nuts and hopefully that will fix it?
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Heading back up to get the last load of antique tractors from the show and something seemed funny. 2 miles later turn into a side Road less power. Pull over. Oil everywhere. Shut it down. Nut completely unthreaded.
Get it on and tighten as best I could with a pair of channel locks one size too small. Dump in a gallon of oil. Now it is just on the stick. Start it and sounds good. Still leaking.
Called a buddy to see if he can get me. Yep sure but his wife is not happy. Something about him going to Texas at 7 am for work for a week..... Give him directions hoping he makes it since he has no sense of direction.
Obs 7.3 stops. Talk to him. He doesn't have anything better for tools on him but lives a mile down the road. Drop the trailer on the side of the road. Drive to his farm and got some better fitting pliers. Either I got too heavy handed or I cross threaded it. Stripped the nut. The flange threads look good.
Drive back to the trailer and sit intersection so my buddy doesn't miss it. Hook my trailer to his truck and get mine loaded. In the end it turned out as best as it probably could have. Pictures to follow when the sun comes up. Time to read up on the dipstick flange. Hoping a new nut and o-rings will fix it.
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The dipstick tube flange is now leaking ....
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Bought a used 2000 Jetta, 2.0L AEG engine by the looks of it, 188k miles. Previous owner told me he did a bit of work on it, and acknowledged the coolant leak - have to fill the overflow ball about once a week. He said he recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner pulley. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
From what I can see it seems to be leaking at the outlet flange (see pics of rust).
Would any of this cause the water in the overflow ball to be rusty yellow (see pics)? Should I just go ahead and replace the ball and then the o-ring at the outlet flange?
I'm new to VWs, but am up for a bit of work to make sure it gets to 200k miles (bought the Bentley manual).
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I had a leak at the flange several months ago. I fixed it with the diesel o rings kit. I made a trip from TX to AL with no leaking and drive it daily without leaks. But, 2 weeks ago noticed a small dribble of a leak from the same spot again - not enough to leave a mark on the pavement but any leaking drives me nuts. I applied some RTV. It worked for the 2 weeks.
Today, noticing another dribble of a leak coming through the RTV down the pan. I'm thinking the flange is bent and not keeping that o-ring sealed against the pan. I'm going to try to apply some additional RTV at the leak spot. If this doesn't work? Is that Strictly Diesel adapter really worth that kind of dough? Is pushing the OEM adapter into the pan really acceptable? Any other options?
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I'm attempting to replace the steering coupling in my 1969 f100 2 wheel drive 240 6 cyl.. I have found that the lower column shaft bearing needs to be replaced also. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the shaft coupling flange off the shaft in order to remove the bearing. Also if I do get it off how do I remove the old bearing?
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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How can one tell? V6 heated seats, 16" wheels. Seams like its a glx? Are there more options between the 2?
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My cel came on yesterday so I immediately took it to get scanned the problem is that my fuel air mixture is running to rich or I have a faulty cc will getting the code cleared solve my problems or what needs to be done to solve the problem....
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