Passat (B6) :: Fault Code PO118 / Radiator Fan Starts Running Within A Few Seconds Of Start Up
May 30, 2010
I have an 05, 2.0 TDI which recently got a a PO118 fault. My mechanic replaced the green top sensor with one with a blue top (having been told that the green top sensors have been updated to blue). I am still getting an occasional PO118 fault but now the auxiliary (a/c) fan or the radiator starts running within a few seconds of start up, A/C on or not. SO, bad sensor, wrong sensor or something else entirely?
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My friends sisters 2003 V6 is getting a po118 code. And how do I fix it?
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I have a 00 1.8t that won't start...
It gives me P1517 fault code and is the only code I'm getting. Replaced starter. I've looked all over and find very little information about this. Some place I read about said relay 377 is the main electrical relay but I can't find where it is.
Is there a missing relay next to 370?
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I have a 07 Passat, manual 2.0T, 90 kmiles.
There was a recall for some faulty circuit in the steering column, which got replaced in September. Ever since the replacement, about once a week (with a daily commute of 40 miles each way, mostly congested highway), the following happens:
First the engine revs up for a couple of seconds when I change gears, to 4-5kRPM. Then within 5 minutes, I get a "Parking Brake Fault" message, together with the yellow P light staying on. If I stop the engine, I cannot restart it for 30 minutes or so, there's a message that says "depress clutch first".
When I finally manage to restart, I won't have a problem for about a week. Is this common?
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I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
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My 2003 Camry has po301 fault code also have same code showing as pending. Can't find nothing on google regarding duplicate codes . The car starts fine, runs fine, idles fine. Excellent at high speeds I don't think the car is misfiring . Could it be a bad sensor giving me a false reading .
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I am having a problem when i go to start my car. I only seems to happen in the morning. The car will start and then 2 seconds later it will die. The only way i can get it to go is my jamming it in drive.. and then still it takes the car like 2 minutes before it will pick up speed and start driving normal.
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2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
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Car has 6600 miles on it and is back in the shop for 2nd time to determine what is wrong. Basically, the car starts and then stalls out after a few seconds. It will not start again (at least with me). Course, the dealer can get it started after the tow to them.It began in April after an oil change at the dealer. A week after the change, it started up and then a message SHUT DOWN appeared on the dash.
The car stalled and would not restart. When it was towed to the dealer, it had no oil. Per the dealer, there was no leak and it was assumed the tech forgot to put oil in it, They indicated it was not a problem since there was some oil remaining but the car would still not start. They kept it a few days and replaced the relay for the fuel modulator, electronic fuel pump, fuel unit, fuel pump control unit, e-control unit and of course the battery. Note: this was a cold start.
About a month later, I had driven the car for about 30 minutes, left it for an hour and came back to the car.....it stalled again right after start up and would not restart. After being on hold with roadside assistance for awhile, I tried it again and it started without issue. .
A week later (today), used it for a half hour, came back to use it 3 hours later and same story. Started, then stalled, no restart. Towed it to the dealer and the tech got it started but no codes telling him what is wrong.
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I start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
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One of my friends recently asked me to change the timing belt on his 2004 Passat 1.8T. I put on everything as instructed by the manual that the parts department gave me. However, when I start the engine, it runs perfectly for about three seconds, then starts rattling, and stalls out. I took the belt off and put it back on three times and yet, it still continues. This rattling seems to be coming somewhere from within the exhaust system near the engine and sounds like a back-fire. The check engine light also appears when this begins happening. I replaced everything, water pump, pully, tensioner, and etc. Note, I am a professional mechanic and have worked on several Volkswagen cars, including my own, but I never encountered a problem like this one.
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My independent mechanic says my radiator fan and AC fan are cycling too much. The dealer says they are not. I know it started about 6 months ago and that I get 2 miles per gallon less now. If the heat, defrost selector is in any position it happens as long as the fan control in not on off.The fans run for 5 seconds and then are off for 20 seconds. The independent says the AC has refrigerant but doesn't know what is causing it. It happens at all outside temperatures. It happens at all car temperatures. (Just started, been driving for an hour etc.)
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VW passat 1.8 tubo 20v 1998 R/reg automatic/triptonic I have a misfire/stutter when accelerating, have fault code 00529, changed plugs/maf/air filter/checked coils, cleaned throttle body, and still the car has the problem, it goes to the dealer on Saturday, I have told them I dont want the car back until this problem has been sorted.
Also been told it is the ECU for the gearbox! Picked the car up from the dealers after the oil service and inspection this is what they found. play in nsf track rod end. fault with engine control unit. fault with tci unit on top of the air cleaner?. could the tci unit be the cause of the problem that I have been getting! They also washed and vacuumed my car and left me a nice tin of mints.
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The two Radiator fans are always running even at start up on a cold day. I have not had time to investigate as yet but I am assuming it is the temperature sensor located near the thermostat or a relay. No CEL on. What it likely is and how to approach the trouble shooting?
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I have a 2000 1.8L that's great. I have seen a reference to Vacuum leak diagnosis. I have a check engine light on and it has been for a while. the car still runs well and gets fine gas mileage. Coed is 1136. Is there a specific hose I should check?
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Check engine light is on and my code reader is giving me a P0000 code that is not listed in the Bentley's list of OBD II codes. My nose is telling me it's emissions related as the exhaust smells too rich. And the car is nearly stalling at idle. Suspect #1 is the MAF but the OBD II code does not support this.
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Earlier this week on my way back home from the gym I got my first check engine light . I scanned the car and got the fault below. What may be causing it?
About the car: 2008 LUX Wagon2.0T FSI50,2XX miles
Scan:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 907 115 S HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH16--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 040C010A19070160
Shop #: WSC 25129 444 59131
VCID: 3041DE6FDAB3
1 Fault Found:
008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle
[Code] ....
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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Fault code (U0100 lost comm with ECM/PCM)
Car started a few weeks back. I let is sit while I ordered a new dash, it had a blow dash airbag. I replaced the dash, taking out the stereo and instrument cluster. I also replaced the battery with a new factory one.
Went to start the car and nothing happened, no cranking, the only thing I can hear is a single click from the starter. All the lights are on in the instrument panel.
Windows, sunroof dont work even in AUX power
Fuel pump does not prime
I checked the fuses, none were blown, checked the relays, all work.
OBDII reader throws out the code U0100 even though check engine light is not on. I dont have VAGCOM or VCDS but should in a few days.
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I bought an 05 golf GL with a 2.0 and 5 speed in January for commuting to work.
Well, recently. I was on my way home from work, I'm an engine tech for Cummins Inc, and I notice my CEL came on and the car stalled multiple times at red lights. So I limped it home, connected my scanner and the fault was "Implausible signal from Mass Air Flow sensor". I cleared the fault code and tried to start the car. Nothing, no crank no start. Just an audible click from under the hood.
I disconnected the battery for 5 min reconnected it and it started fine. Drove it to work the next day, no issues. I tried to start it again and nothing, CEL was on again for the MAF sensor. I pop started it, car ran like hell, rough idle, low power, etc. luckily I have a dualy that I can drive in the mean time.
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Just got a check engine light last night. Pulled the code and got a P202a fault. Some digging indicates its the Ad-Blue tank heater module. TDI forum indicates its anywhere from $850 to 1K to fix. Also that it's not covered under any extended warranty (now there's a shock!) The cars going back to VW so that's not happening.
Is this one of the conditions that will cause the car to go into limp mode at some point? I know that happens when the ad-blue runs low. I'm in Florida so the heater isn't really a big deal. I need to use it another couple of months and I don't want to have this thing leave me stranded. If I have to I'll park it.
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