Passat (B6) :: Engine Started To Sputter Once Hit 4000 Rpm And CEL Came On
Jun 23, 2013
So I was driving home from when my engine started to sputter once it hit 4000 rpm and the CEL came on so I figured it was my plugs and coils, I changed all of those and unplugged my battery to get the CEL to go away, now all of a sudden my computer is crazy, I have a lot of indicators and my gears indicators are all highlighted, when I start the car and put in it gear is shifts really hard, I just don't know what to do!
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So, I got in my car this morning, it started fine, no CEL, pulled out onto the main road and while while accelerating, it started to sputter and the CEL flashed several times. I turned back into my neighborhood, expecting it to stall, but it didn't. I sat there for a second, it was running fine, but I felt a few slight rumbles while idling, enough to make me nervous, but not enough to prevent me from continuing to work (I'm out of PTO).
So, I continued on, no CEL, accelerated and the sputtering happened again, slowed down, lightly pressed the gas pedal and it was fine. I made it to work. I just got the APR programming on Monday. I ordered the TT225 diverter valve.
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I now have a p0011 code on my 2001 passat 1.8t aug. this is a thinker because right before the test drive around the block i did the following
- coolant flush
-replaced the fuel filter
-cleaned the knn air filter
-rotated the tires
-oil change with new castrol 5w-40 syn. and 1/2 a bottle of lucas syn oil stabilizer.
With a few phone calls a possible cause is the timing chain skipped a tooth cause of the lucas being to thick, other cause could be the tensioner finally went out?
Right know the car car has a rough idle and seems to be finding idle , and a noise from the engine around 4000 rpm.
I am waiting for the engine to cool off before i open her up to check timing.. if the chain is off a a tooth what could be the cause?
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Two days ago, I was driving on a North GA steep, windy, mountain road in my 2002 v6 4.0 Ranger. All of a sudden, i started revving real high (about 4000rpms) and getting no power (20mph). I pulled over immediately and transmission fluid was pouring, by the quart, out of my truck. I didnt get to look exactly where it was coming from, since i backed away once i saw a small flame coming from the leak. i then called a tow truck (assuming it was a seal or a hose break) and had it towed to my house.
I started investigating the possible problems and didn't really see anything noticeable under the truck (not that I was expecting to). So what I did was put three quarts of transmission fluid in the dipstick hole and put in gear to see if I could spot a leak. nothing. then I drove it around the block to get it warmed up and put a little pressure on the transmission by driving up a semi-steep hill to see if that would spark the leak again. still no sign of the a leak.
And finally, when I went to go check the dipstick after my test drive, it read to be above the cross hatched area, hence being overfull. What my next step should be?
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So yesterday my car was running as fine as it always has. Then today came around...Car started fine, shifted into first and second fine, but when I hit 3rd it started to sputter in the low rpm's. Around 3000 it picks up a bit. This then continued happening through all of the gears. I noticed that the engine light was flashing for a few seconds and then went away completely. It still putters, struggles, and shakes when accelerating in the low rpms but its not throwing any codes. I know there are a few things it could be i.e. vacuum pump, bad coils or plugs, are maybe something more serious (fuel pump maybe?). I'm at a loss, especially since the car is throwing no codes (so there is nothing to scan for). I was hoping vortex could give me somewhere to start on this, I don't have a VAGcom so getting it scanned means $$$ and I want to get a start on the problem before I go that route. Here's some basic info:
Its at 182,XXX miles. Its never thrown any engine light or cel code in the 2 years 40,000+ miles i've owned it. I run 0w 40 eurpean car formula oil through it every 3-5k. I run seafoam through it every 6 months. I'm NOT sure when the last time the coils have been replaced.
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This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
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I have a 2002 chrysler town and country van. The check eng. light came on about 6mths ago but did not affect the way it ran, but tonight my wife was driving in it after filling the gas and started to sputter slow at slow speeds and really sputters at higher speeds. should i be looking for water in the fuel.
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I just installed a boost gauge and drove the car a little and this is the readings I get. It starts off with 20 inHg and to normal street driving it goes up to 0 and down. However when I pushed it a little, the maximum reading I got was 11-13PSI (High RMP-almost redline). I am a noob in this boost department so Is this readings really accurate or is there something wrong? Recently i had some transmission work done. And since then the gas pedal feels heavier. I was convinced that it is from the new bushings but I feel like this is boost related. Because at 4000 RPM sometimes It suddenly looses the boost (Kick).
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I bought this car as a mechanics special a couple months ago. Engine needed a new intake manifold and the timing cover was off for some reason, so I threw a new chain and tensioner on while it was open.
Finally got everything put back together and it runs really good, but it seems to lack power. If I floor it, it takes a good 8 seconds to get to 45 MPH and that's about as fast as it'll go. The engine will get to 4000 RPM and begin to stumble as if it's hitting the park/neutral rev limiter.
Does the ECM think I'm in park? Did I get the timing wrong? Fuel supply problem?
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Temperature outside (weather data): 55F. Temperature gauge in prius: 57F. It felt more like 70F. It's a 2010 Prius III model that is 6 months old and has about 3942 miles and is driven VERY carefully.
I start the Prius and when the ICE engages to warm up. There's LOUD intense engine knock. I immediately turn the power off. After a couple of seconds, I start it again....the ICE engages again and then starts knocking rapidly (it is definitely knocking) and after 10 seconds. It goes back to normal. It was so intense that it may have damaged other components or the engine block itself.
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I've had a weird problem pop up within the past few weeks. My engine seems to have a noticeable whine above 4000 RPMs. It sounds almost like a supercharger whine, but my engine is completely stock. Possible problems I found online include exhaust leak, vacuum leak or tensioner issue for the belts.
Another issue I have had is that whenever shifting into second gear, I have some difficulty getting it into second gear. It makes a scraping sound as though the clutch is not disengaged all the way. On occasion, I have also had the shifter kind of pop second gear out when continuing onto third or even feel like it is rejecting second gear sometimes. A friend of mine told me that the scraping sound is normal and, "that's just how manuals are." Doesn't seem normal to me especially since it is every time I shift to second gear.
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My Jeep sounds like it is in low gear and engine sounds like its turning 4000rpm but only when cold. This is so noticeable that dogs stare and pedestrians run for cover. Once the engine and drivetrain warm up a little, all is normal. The reality is that the engine is only turning 2500rpm and it is shifting, but the tranny doesn't feel like its grabbing very well. After just a few minutes driving, all is well and there is plenty of power. Fluids are all topped off and fresh.Is it time to warm this baby up and drive it to the nearest car lot?
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE (4-spd auto) and today had to merge in fast moving traffic....the engine hit about 4000rpm for about 2 seconds or so and then dropped back down to 2800 and eventually 2300.
Not sure what the redline is for the 2000 corolla, but I'm guessing that hitting it especially when under load is bad even for a few seconds?
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i have a 1998 passat 1.8t and in the past week my car started a slight sputter when i get on the gas and it gradually got worse the car starts up fine and idles perfect i did a compression check all 4 cylinders are exactly 150 psi now the problem just got worse when i go to leave a light or when im cruising down the highway and grt on it it sputters or and like pops or backfires outta the exhaust i just replaced the fuel filter and i still have the problem im stumped
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The past two times I've driven to work I've hit significant traffic. While in the middle of stop and go traffic, the engine started to idle at high RPM (3000-4000). Today the temperature gauge really started climbing and hit the red, at which point I shut the car off and waited a few minutes. No smoke, no noise and no check engine lights. As soon as the road started to clear and we were moving again, the car was fine. The engine cooled, stayed cool, and the idle returned to it's normal 1000 RPM.
The dealer was unfortunately unable to reproduce these findings, though they thought it could be a stuck thermostat.
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My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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One night i was driving fast and when i let off the gas at about 85 mph my engine started to do a bad tug...(kinda like pushing hard on the brakes just to annoy passengers...) but it wasnt my brakes!!
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Past few mornings, I had a bit of trouble starting my 2002 Passat V6 (60K miles); car would start, and sputter. After a few times of this, the car would eventually turn over, and would be a little rough once I put it in gear for the first few hundred feet or so.
Brought it up to North Penn VW in Colmar, and the service tech said it had to do with the ethanol in fuel settling to the bottom of the tank, and not being potent enough to fire the engine, and normal acceleration would be enough to burn this stuff out of the lines and/or where the gas and ethanol would mix.
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I just got my 04 Passat chipped from APTuning 2 days ago and I was wondering if i need to tighten the gap on my spark plugs? Car runs wonderfully but in high boost it seems to sputter a bit, and i was hoping that tightening the gap was going to solve this issue. If i do have to tighten the gap, do i need to do this for each program? I have 4 programs on the chip (stock, 91 octane, 93 octane and 100 octane). I am sure that i'm going to keep it to 91 octane for 99% of the time.
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My "99 1.8T Passat has 92K miles. The past few weeks, the check engine light started to come on and I need to refill at least a liter of oil since the dipstick is showing I am low on it. What the problem is? Will it be an expensive fix? The car is still running great...just using up a lot of oil.
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My wife was driving this morning and she said that the car engine started to hesitate and shake a lot, engine light came on, started to bling. Called road assistance and they did a great work towing the car in less than half hour. Also noticed a rotten egg smell from the exhaust or engine.
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