Passat (B6) :: Engine Started To Hesitate And Shake A Lot
Mar 6, 2010
My wife was driving this morning and she said that the car engine started to hesitate and shake a lot, engine light came on, started to bling. Called road assistance and they did a great work towing the car in less than half hour. Also noticed a rotten egg smell from the exhaust or engine.
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My 2010 Xle camry, only has 10.030 miles, today engine light turn on and SRC too, when i started engine shake few, then 2 light turn on together, 2 months ago happens some similar but i thought Was battery. And I changed , immediately two light turn off.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 45,000 miles, and my Camry engine is starting to shake when I put it in drive. My "Check Engine" light starts to flash. I haven't had any other problems, so I was surprised when this started to happen.
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I have ES 350 with 118000 miles. And for the last 6 months I've noticed my car become louder and louder. And now it's beginning to shake and vibrate a little. The Check engine light and check VSC light came on then it went off. I can also tell it doesn't have the same pick up when I hit the gas. So is it time to for new plugs and coils?
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I have the stock 16-inch Bioline wheels on my '10 JSW TDI. After hitting a big pothole on the Pennsylvania turnpike (stupid of me, I know), the car started to shake noticeably above 55 m.p.h. Tire pressure was normal. When I replaced the wheel (right front) with the spare, the shaking went away.
Did I damage the wheel? Normally, I would attribute shaking to the alignment being off, but---again---the car doesn't shake when the spare is on. I would have thought it would take more to damage a 16-inch alloy wheel, but what do I know?
I'm trying to decide whether I should pay to have the alignment checked or start scouring the classifieds for a replacement wheel already.
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I have a 2003 3.5 Santa Fe. Last week while my wife was on the way to work, and still in the neighborhood, she said the car started to shake and the CEL came on.
I checked and got these two codes:
Pending Fault Log
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P1707: Unknown code
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
I replaced the spark plugs in cylinders 2, 4, and 6. Not 1, 3, 5 yet since those are harder to get to.
I drove the car about 10 miles and it seemed to operate fine. The CEL stayed off. However, my scanner still says Pending P1707. The scanner showed no errors when I first started up the car, but I decided to do it again about 5 miles in that is when it showed the error.
I've done some searching but the responses for this code are inconsistent. What this error is about?
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
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I have a 2000 Grand AM cylin. Recently I was driving when my car started to shake violently. I drove it to the side of the road to a parking lot then it died. I started it up again and is ran but shacking a lot again. Once I got home, 3 blocks away the car died again. I tried to start it again but it would only turn but not start the engine. I have checked the gas pump, motor mounts, oil and anti freez for oil. I did check the timing chain but I don't know much on how it should be.
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I have a ford f250 with a 5.4l 2v engine and lately it started to shake when it idles. i have changed all the ignition coils and spark plugs, the injector are fine, but i cant seem to pinpoint the problem. the weird thing is that there are no codes. the fuel trim on bank 1 is around -8 and bank 2 is at almost positive 20 and higher.
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I was driving my 99 f250 superduty and out of no where it sounded like i had blown a tire started to shake for at least 3 or 4 seconds pulled to the side of the road got out and check tires were good, got back on the road with no more problem.
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I drive a 99 1.8t Passat with 90,xxx miles. Yesterday I felt the car hesitate/jerk a little when it's accelerated to 35-40 miles per hour. I've had this problem in my past and it was a cylinder misfire. I would bring it to the repair shop.
My question is: Can my car last about 1.5 weeks? My work is 20 mins away. I can definitely avoid the freeway.
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When my car was brand new, in 2004, I had to take it in for its Tiptronic software to be updated. Apparently there was a Tech Service Bulletin on the 2004 V6 Passats where this faulty software caused the car to hesitate and stutter between 1st and 2nd. At the time, the problem was fixed right away at my dealership.
Now my car has 40,000 miles, and has been flawless. I took it in for the 40,000 mile service, and my car came back from being serviced with several problems mostly minor--the AM radio is suddenly static-y, the tires were all underinflated by 18 psi's. But a more serious problem is that the hesitation and stutter that I detected when the car was new 2 years ago is back! I can't believe I brought a perfectly working car in for 40,000 mile checkup, and now have these issues.
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2005 2.OT ... Our car showed an engine light last night and when doing heavy acceleration, starts to pull or hesitate. Do not occurs when accelerating slowly, all day at dealer and they said that might be cam wear or some pressure pump. They are taking the engine covers to find out what is the issue. Cam repair and oil change. It drives smoother and no longer hard down shifting....
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One night i was driving fast and when i let off the gas at about 85 mph my engine started to do a bad tug...(kinda like pushing hard on the brakes just to annoy passengers...) but it wasnt my brakes!!
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So I was driving home from when my engine started to sputter once it hit 4000 rpm and the CEL came on so I figured it was my plugs and coils, I changed all of those and unplugged my battery to get the CEL to go away, now all of a sudden my computer is crazy, I have a lot of indicators and my gears indicators are all highlighted, when I start the car and put in it gear is shifts really hard, I just don't know what to do!
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My "99 1.8T Passat has 92K miles. The past few weeks, the check engine light started to come on and I need to refill at least a liter of oil since the dipstick is showing I am low on it. What the problem is? Will it be an expensive fix? The car is still running great...just using up a lot of oil.
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About two weeks ago I noticed the engine idle start to hesitate but ONLY while idling. I was sort of leaning towards the distributor cap or rotor but that didn't add up because in the past when either of these would go out the car would just die without any warning whatsoever. So I just kept driving it and then tonight when I started the engine it was hesitating a lot more than it had been and also hesitating during acceleration but would smooth out after I would reach and maintain 40mph. The CEL also started flashing on and off. I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor with no improvement. Tomorrow I plan to replace the plug wires. The code it's sending is P0302 (misfire cylinder 2). If the plug wire doesn't do the trick and I can't find any leaks on the intake I'm going to try to figure out how to inspect the ignition coil (well, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out since I have two different shop manuals for this car.)
Another possibility for P0302 is low engine compression but I seriously doubt that's the problem because last time I checked the compression all 4 cylinders had above average compression. I doubt the plug wire is going to fix it since the wires only have about 20k miles on them and I don't think I have any leaks on the intake so where else I should look? Oh yeah, just remembered. I also put a stethoscope (actually a screwdriver) against the fuel injector for cylinder number 2 and it was clicking away just like the other 3 injectors so I guess the injector isn't the problem unless it can be faulty and still make the clicking noise. So should I check the injector with a meter or is the clicking enough evidence that it's working fine?
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Just had the unfortunate scene of seeing the engine light go on but I knew something has been up for a couple weeks just couldn't figure it out but today when I came to a stop my car starts revving slightly without me doing anything and when in park the rpms just increase slightly not alot.
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I just had my 25k service a month ago. Left car in MSP airport lot for a week and when we were driving home to Duluth last night, the check engine light came on and started flashing and the engine started to stall and run very rough.
Drove slowly to get home, noticed HUGE burning smell under hood, opened it and this part under engine on left side was a glowing fireball red cylinder. 1.8t, have all my maintenance done at dealership. Car ran fine for 126 miles on the way home and it just came on and started flashing
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The engine light in my 2001 Passat all of a sudden started blinking when I started it this afternoon - for no apparent reason. It feels like it's going to stall and is idling kind of loud.
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Lets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
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