Ok so here's the thing. I put an intake on the car. But the engine shakes badly and the RPM keeps bouncing. There is no air leak. Is there any vag-com programming that needs to be done for the intake to work since it is going to be different than the stock one? t is a 2.0t engine.
View 11 RepliesI took the car in for a steering vibration/jiggle problem (and a 60K mi service), and the dealer replaced the axles/driveshafts under the powertrain warranty.
It seemed fine when I drove back home, but recently I've been noticing the steering shake again. If I remove my hands from the wheel, it jiggles and pulses to the left and right by itself. Whenever I turn the wheel off center left and right, (while moving; mini-slaloming, I suppose) the wheel resistance pulses back and forth... it isn't creamy smooth. And finally on the freeway, the front end seems to hop... it's rather disconcerting.
Can any of this be cured by the powertrain warranty... or am I looking at some suspension/steering work?
I have a 1996 GMC Sonoma extended cab, 2.2l engine (not vortec) purchased in the United States. I’m having trouble setting the timing correctly.
I recently replaced the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and chain, and after several attempts to set the timing, the engine still shakes badly and struggles to run smoothly, especially at idle. (It did not do this before the repair.) My code reader picks up the following codes: P0106, P0108. It seems to me that the timing is off despite my best efforts.
I’m going to try and attach a picture of the timing chain and sprockets as they’re currently set because the camshaft timing mark is strange on this vehicle and I’m not sure if it’s lined up correctly. Does it looks right? (Red mark on cam sprocket made by me; timing mark is supposedly the circular hole above that tooth.)
I did several other repairs at the same time that I did the timing. I have gone back over as much of these as possible and I don’t think I did anything wrong. As cars go I’m strictly an amateur but I work as a small engine mechanic so I have some experience with the way things feel when they’re done wrong. Nevertheless, if the timing is right, maybe I botched one of these?
The simultaneous repairs:
Removed head
Replaced hydraulic lifters
Cleaned carbon off valves
Checked pushrod straightness
Changed gaskets (several)
Replaced oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, & thermostat
Replaced coolant hoses
I did all this because I hit the 150,000-mile mark and I want to keep it running for another 150,000.
I have a 95 940 turbo that shakes really bad when braking. things I have done so far are.
1. Replaced all four rotors.
2. Replaced all four callipers.
3. Replaced sway bar control arms.
The shaking is so bad that the gear shift moves back and forth when braking.
I have a '99 Silverado 1500 with a 4.3L V-6 amd 188,000. It picked up a problem recently that's been stumping me. Occassionally, and for no reason I can sort out, it starts to shimmy badly. This behavior has come about at several speeds. Sometimes just cruising down the road at 35-45 it starts to shimmy and wobble and the steering wheel shakes as if a wheel is horribly out of balance. Other times this occurs at highway speeds - it's noticeable and alarming. The problem can last a long while; othertimes the symptoms disappear in a few seconds. The first time it happened I thought I had a flat or was about to lose a wheel - this is not a subtle problem.
I've checked several things and came up empty. No delamination in the tires and nothing out of round, but just to be sure I had the wheels balanced and rotated - the balance was spot on when checked. Alignment is good. Did those things, but the symptoms continued. The vehicle is high mileage so I put in on the lift and checked the front-end. The steering rack has a very slight amount of play and the hub bearings have a very small amount of play too - I'll get after those, but they're not causing this intermittent problem. Everything else is tight. Shocks are fine, brakes are fine, I checked the rear-end as well - everything is straight and true. Air pressure is set correctly. I checked the driveshaft for runout and play - that's not the problem. The truck has never been in an accident and nothing seems misaligned.
The truck drives like a new truck most of the time, then suddenly, on a smooth road, it starts wobbling around. I'm starting to believe the problem might lie under the hood. I had a problem some time back with misfiring and the truck bucking - this turned out to be a worn distributor. A new distributor, rotor and wiring solved that problem. But these symptoms are not similar - this is not a bucking problem; the entire vehicle starts to shimmy and wobble with the steering wheel vibrating back and forth. It's hard to tell, but I cannot detect any misfiring or rough running in the engine when these symptoms appear and I have no 'check engine' warnings.
Are there any engine/transmission/drivetrain related issues that could cause intermittent symptoms that feel like an out of balance condition? A few other facts:- I have noticed the truck is a little down on power lately- The fuel economy has dropped off - I used to do around 20, now I'm down to 16mph highway- (Very) slightly rough idle
So. My car shakes badly when I get above 35 mph and up. It shakes under acceleration and braking above these speeds. Under these speeds its fine. When I am above 35 if I am just coasting its fine it doesn't shake. The shaking feels like I am off the side of the road and driving over rumble strips. What could be the cause of this?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 vw Jetta with a manual transmission (just over 155,000 miles). My first set of front brakes lasted to about 135,000. After they were replaced a shimmy started to appear when braking a few thousand miles in. At about 8,000 miles the shimmy became so bad that I brought the car back to the dealer. They said the rotors were warped. The pads and rotors were replaced again and in about 5,000 miles same thing. The pads and rotors were replaced again at no charge and it is now about 5,000 miles later and the same thing is happening again.
View 2 Replieswhen i turn on my car it shakes and engine light blinks it happen this morning when i start my car.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 passat engine shakes when in idle or stop at light. When running on highway, it is smooth. what could it be?
View 3 RepliesMy passat burns oil pretty bad.
i had it in the vw dealer and they said that they did a bunch of test, but no results to indicate why its wasting oil. So they topped it off and said keep an eye on it.
well now its been about a month and its done down by almost half a cm on the dip stick.
My bro just got a 1999 passat 1.8t and it seems to be smoking really badly from the exhaust. We checked the air intake for oil. But that seems fine. Where its going bad?
View 9 RepliesCame to a stop at a loooooooong light the other afternoon. I popped the AT into neutral, and the engine idle rose to around 2000 RPM, dropped to about 1500, then started cycling in that range. CEL also showed up.
Now, whenever the transmission is in either P or N, if I blip the throttle to bring the RPMs into that range (1500-2000), it stays in that range and cycles up to 2000, drops to 1500, wash, rinse, repeat. Blipping the throttle above 2000 does not change this behavior... as soon as the RPMs drop back to 1500, zoom it goes, right back to 2000.
2010 wagon is doing great as my daily commuter and a long distance hauler for my wife and two kids on weekends, but I'd love to cut down on the floatiness and fore-aft body motion over swells. I put Bilstein HDs and a rear stabilizer bar (really a torsion beam stiffener) on my old 2000 wagon and left the springs stock after I'd read on these boards the idea that the B5 was under-dampened, and though the changes were big improvement and good compromise. People seem to like to touring cup kit, but I don't particularly want to drop the car and would like to preserve as much of the ride quality as possible.
View 6 RepliesI opened the trunk to put something in this morning and when I tried to close it the darn thing kept bouncing right back up. So I luckily brought it directly to the dealership who was able to get me an appt. at 11:30 the same day. By 11:45 I got a call that the trunk latch was faulty and had been replaced and the car was ready to go.It was really annoying because there is no way to actually tie down the trunk if it won't close, so I had to drive to the dealership with my trunk open! You'd think they could have put some type of clips or hooks to hook up.
View 23 RepliesI did a fix a while back for water getting into my plugs [URL] .... but I was driving up a winding 60 mile road with it raining cats and dogs plus trucks were throwing water on me (night time also) and 5 miles before I got home it started running like there was water on the plugs and I barely made it home.
I haven't had time to do any tests for where it is coming in because it has been raining for 3 days nonstop but has anyone ever had water short the ignition out like that? After sitting it was fine in the morning but I need to know where it is coming in while driving. It was OK at 40mph but it started when I stepped it up to 60mph.
The other day I bought an sct tuner for my excursion and its been a little glitchy, likes to freeze up and lock out my ecu.
I was driving yesterday and today I try to turn it on and my engine knocks badly revs erratically and all gauges weren't working so i shut it off. I tried to start up again and it flashes the theft light and abs light. Won't crank won't do anything my whole engine is locked out.
So i tried reverting the ecu back to stock. I did this several times once it simply lost power and shut off at the end another time it said wrong vehicle and the final time it said completed.
Now when i try to start up it does the same thing and will not do anything but flash lights at me... When I downloaded the file it said select vehicle: 6.0 superduty. That was the only choice, and the guy at the store said that the truck tuner will work in my excursion I specifically asked if this works in the ex.
I really need my truck otherwise I will he paying hundreds in taxi fare. I tried calling the store and sct but both are closed on weekends.
Is there an alert setting to signal when a regen starts? My engine stumbles badly a few seconds after a regen starts. The dealer hasn't found the problem. Right now I just keep an eye on the soot level gauge.
View 14 RepliesI'm a MKV guy, but a coworker wants me to glance on the Vortex to take a look to see if I can find any answers to her Passat situation. It shakes (steering wheel, body, everything shakes like you're going up a roller-coaster) while you accelerate. Once you meet the speed you want to go, it stops. If you accelerate, then it will continue shaking.
View 6 RepliesAbout two months ago when driving at around 100-130 km/h, my steering would shake and also when I would push of the brakes.
Brought my 2013 Passat to the dealership and they balanced my front tires...left the dealership and steering wasn't any better. The following week brought it in again and they balanced the tires in front of my eyes and still nothing was fixed.
Since there is no knocking sound coming from the front end of the car they said they were 100% sure my front discs we're warped. So they replaced my front discs and IT STILL SHAKES.
Should my pads of been replaced at the same time as my discs?? My car is not making any noise at all...just shaky steering and when pressing brakes. I'm willing to bed it's because of my pads.
The front end of my car shakes (sometimes, more often than not, but not always) while braking. It doesn't matter if I am braking hard or regular. I do not feel it while accelerating or cruising.
So, my thinking is rotors and pads wearing unevenly, warped, or something along these lines. I plan to pull the rotors off and look at them this evening.
I am just looking at if there are any other opinions or options that I should be checking into to cause this type of thing to happen.
The whole front suspension was replaced a couple months ago, so all should be well there but will look it over while I have the wheels off.
My car shakes a lot on high speeds and the other day i noticed that my passenger back tire is kind of tilted its not sitting on straight i tried to take it off and put it on again but it just doesn't sit on straight for some reason so i was wondering i have a 98 passat wagon 1.8t FWD... Do these cars need alignment in the back tires too or just the front ? Because someone had told me that the alignment could cause the back wheel to tilt is this true? Will alignment fix my problem ?
View 1 Replies