Passat (B6) :: Engine Missing After Oil Changed
Aug 15, 2009
Changed the oil in the car today, I added 4.5 liters and went to start it and it was misfiring. I thought what the hell did I do to the car to run so rough..I shut it down and checked the level and topped it up. Started the car and it was fine ..
I am thinking that because the oil filler cap was removed and started that the computer detected something changed in the engine . This is the first time an engine has done this to me, these things are fine tuned..Must be something to do with the pvc valve system.
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My car recently had its timing belt changed, it's got about 83k miles. up until then there had been some oil loss, but there was some leaking found around the valve covers so the gaskets were done. my mechanic did a full tb change, including the water pump. he said that the coolant was pretty cloudy when he changed it too.
When I got the car back, the coolant filled the tank to about half. it was running and warmed up (had just been driven about an hour) at the time. this was a couple weeks ago. i haven't driven the car since then as its my wife's ride. today, after i got to work (hour on the highway) and turned the car off, i checked the coolant level. it was at the min line.
Now of course, my first thought is "oh crap, am i really gonna have to do a head gasket now?" But I'm wondering what else might be going on, particularly after a TB change. Also, the car has been running kind of like crap as of late. I changed out the spark plugs, which were clearly OEM, and that worked immensely, but after a ride on the highway for an hour it's a bit rough getting off the highway. Dunno if it's related - my mechanic also thinks i need to replace my wires too, so perhaps it's just that.
So far it doesn't look like my oil is being consumed, though i need to pay more careful attention to that as the days go on. i do get a burning coolant (i think. could be oil, but I'm pretty sure it's coolant) smell from the vents when i warm start the car and turn on the heat. it goes away in about a minute or so. when i first got the car back, my mechanic said it was due to the coolant he spilled all over the engine, but after two weeks i wonder if it isn't something else. i suppose it could be, but the car's been driven about 400 miles since and i would think it would be gone by now. maybe i need to clean the engine to be sure? So, questions:
1) Is it possible that there was some air in the system, and that the air worked its way out, causing the overall level to go down?
2) Are there any likely areas of the TB job that could cause this? i don't recall it ever consuming coolant before, and at this rate, i certainly would have, i should think - we had the car for a year before this.
3) The car had a bit of sludging in it - guess is that it never had anything but dino oil before. So I changed it out with some 502 rated oil and my mechanic advised me to drive it hard every so often and then change it out before my normal interval. today i put it into manual mode and got my rpms up around 6000. could the high rpms have led to consumption in some way?
At this point i'd like to collect as much info as i can about this before making any decisions about how to proceed.
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I changed my spark plugs now I got a miss and rough idle .#2 and 6 seem to be the ones that miss the idle don't change when I unplug the coil , I take coil off and put it next to the motor it sparks ! I put everything 3 plugs and got about 200 miles on them and 3 out of 8 had melt downs and left me on the side of the hwy. I got autolights in it now but it got a miss and rough idle ! Did I not do something right ?
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Changed coolant expansion tank and coolant, engine lite came on. Scanner says coolant problems. What can it be. ECU is not recognizing new tank.
Car passat 1.8, M/T, 05, coolant was changed with the pink coolant from dealership, system was flushed and bleeded. Car is NOT overheating, temperature is showing as usual.
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It is missing a fan in the engine compartment but it doesn't seem to overheat. The fan is not the radiator fan and I am wondering if it is a problem. If I sit at a light the smell of burnt oil also starts coming into the car through the heater. I am just wondering, what kind of oil recommended for a passat with that kind of mileage?
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I was on my way home yesterday when my 99 Passat 1.8T suddenly became much louder than usual and seemed to lose a lot of power. I limped home, and now poking around the engine with my flashlight, I see that the metal pipe that comes off the left side of the engine is no longer attached, and is hanging free, with no obvious way to attach it.
I'm (obviously) not much of a car DIY-er, but looking at how close the two pipes are to one another, how similar they are in size, and how they don't actually come close enough to one another to actually connect, I'm wondering what the missing piece is that connects them, and whether or not it's similar to the sort of Fernco connector you use in plumbing when you have to join two pipes that otherwise won't meet.
[URL] .....
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Lets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
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1.8 had recent coil pack problems? I recently had a coil pack fail in very hot weather 2 weeks ago. This week during another heat wave I believe the coil was again causing the engine to start missing. I know about VW's past reliability problems concerning coil packs and am now concerned that this may be surfacing again.
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I got my oil changed and tires rotated at the dealer recently. I am now getting a waffling noise, similar to when you have the sunroof open. I don't get any vibration in the steering wheel. I have 24000 miles and the car is 16 months old. I have had the tires rotated every 5000 miles. This is the first time this has happened. I felt around the tires and feel no bumps or damage.
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Car just wont start we thought it was the starter, we changed it and still not turning over. We ruled out the battery, and starter. Anything else we should be looking for??
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I had my Passat (2006) for a couple of weeks now and this message comes up on the dash warning: "AFS inoperative". The bulb failure light was flashing as well. I have the bi-xenon lights.
The L/H bulb was changed and the warning and the bulb failure light is still there, but both headlights are working now. The major drama is that the lights are now dipped and at night we can only see about 20m in front of the car. The lights don't do the start up dance as normal.
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Im out of options, the guy who usually scans my car for me is nowhere to be found. I changed the blower resistor and the blower still does not stay consistently on. My next guess is a bad relay somewhere.
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I've got a 2003 passat 1.8t, I just changed my rear brakes about 5000km's ago, and my front pads have a lot of pad left.. the light just came on...? Is it safe to drive still? Is there something I should look for?
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Pulling in to the underground car park at work this morning I noticed that my nearside Xenon has gone from a nice bright white colour, to a dirty pink. The offside is still shining brightly - does this mean the bulb is on it's way out, and if so how much is that going to cost!?!? The car will be 4 years old in October - does this seem a little premature - if it's not a failing bulb could it be something more sinister.
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I recently bought a 98 Passat with what was thought to be an ignition switch problem.. well I changed the switch today and the problem is still there.. it would start sometimes and and sometimes it won't do anything. Not even click.. and sometimes when it starts it sounds like the starter isn't getting enough juice.. another weird thing is that I can start the car without pressing the clutch.(when it does start).. There is actually a couple of electrical oddities going on.. the moonroof would go up by itself randomly and the radio (after matket) doesn't save any of my presets. Every time I turn the car off the radio resets.. so I'm thinking some weird electrical problem is going on..
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As far as I know, my Passat has never had any other spark plugs other than OEM. I could also swear that those OEM plugs always had 3 grounds. My gas mileage historically averages about 27MPG in a mixed city/highway environment.
Recently, my spark plugs were replaced and now my gas mileage has dropped to 24MPG. I had a similar problem once with my previous car (1998 Jetta GLI) and it was due to going from a three ground spark plug to a single ground plug. Putting in three ground spark plugs instantly restored the gas mileage to previous levels.
I've read repeatedly that the NKG PFR6Q is the OEM plug but it only has a single ground. I realize that my memory could be faulty, but this is driving me nuts.
Alas I can't be sure what was there before versus what's there now, but I know my previous mechanic was a stickler for OEM parts. Would switching from a multi-ground to a single-ground cause a 10%+ drop in mileage?
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I have a 91 Camry and have just replaced the timing belt and water pump. I thought I did everything right. I made sure the Crankshaft Pulley was aligned to TDC and I turned the Cams to the right marks. I turned the crank by hand numerous times and everything lined up.
I lowered the motor back on to the mounts but didn't connect all the belts to the alternator and compressor. I just wanted to see if it would fire up. Well nothing happened, it turns over but won't start. I pulled some of the plugs and they are bone dry. Sprayed some starter fluid into the throttle body and still nothing. When I turn the key to Accs. Shouldn't I hear the fuel pump wind up? I can't remember but I don't hear a thing.
So my dilemma is, did I screw up the cam/crank alignment and just don't realize it? Like I said all the marks line up fine. Do I need to put everything back together i.e. the Cruise Actuator, Power Steering reservoir, and all belts before I can start it up? It seemed to me I would at least get a hint off life without putting everything back. Then again, I'm not mechanic.
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2009 2.4 Sonata. Replaced the battery. Engine light came on after battery replacement. Engine code P0106 (MAP sensor or vacuum leak). Car drove fine before and after the battery replacement. Engine light after replacing battery?
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I have a 01 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L, stick shift. My CEL came on and I had it read. Mechanic told me it was P1128 (Fuel Lean) or something like that. Looked it up on line and everything said to check for air leaks and then look at the MAF Sensor. I checked and saw no leaks. Took out MAF Sensor and cleaned it with MAF Cleaner. Disco'd battery to reset computer. CEL went out for maybe 30 minutes and then back on. Didn't do anything with it for about 4 months, now car stutters sometimes.
So, I finally broke down and bought MAF Sensor and replaced myself. Disco'd battery to reset computer. Started up and engine was not smooth at first(30 seconds) then smoothed up. But CEL still on. Drove home (25 minutes) and checked again this morning. CEL is off! Only problem is that the car stutters a little at acceleration. Smooth when at cruising RPM and speed. Just stutters a little at start of acceleration and when switching gears until at cruising speed. Is this going to go away? Is the computer just getting set up after changing MAF Sensor?
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Engine Poor power
I changed the engine for my 2001 Prius ( imported used from Japan ). The engine used to shake few seconds after starting then shuts off. The Mechanist did many things, including changing the Spark Plugs, fuel injectors, adjusting the Timing Belt sync, Cleaning MAF, Updating ( Or Upgrading the soft ware ), Adding fuel Injector cleaner with the Fuel.
Now the engine shakes . It stays on, then runs fine. But when I go up hill the Check Engine and Triangle go on. There are no codes. it only says Engine Poor power.
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Just finished changing my oil and noticed that the dipstick was cracked. Upon further inspection I noticed the end which mates with the plastic tube was cracked and there were missing chips. I can only imagine where they ended up, in the oil. My question is, what to do? Since this is a plastic component, I assume that it will not harm the interior engine parts, but not 100% sure.
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